FED2 vs KIEV4 - my opinion

Carburo

Rangefinding Architect
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Sep 6, 2004
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Hi!

As you know now close to my Kiev4A (1974) there's a new FED2, the one you have seen in the pics.

In my opinion the KIEV 4A is moooooooore user-friendly than the FED.
The Kiev is estremely quiet and immediate for me. Those are the features I ask for from a rangefinder camera: mostly a quick camera for stolen pics and action photo.
I feel the Kiev like it was made-for-my-hand.
Nothing really far from the third RF camera I use, the Leica M3 (aaaaaaarrrrrrrgh! What are you saying??? Whaaaat??? :p)

I hope I have been able to eplain myself with my poor english :)

I wish to know your opinions.

PS:
However I love the FED too ;)
As soon as I'll have time to take some pics I will show you my RESTORED FED2!
 
The Kiev 4 does have a very quiet shutter. The knob wind is slower than my M3DS, and having to keep the rewind button pressed in while rewinding takes a little getting used to. BUT HEY, I better get used to it with my Early M2! The shutter on my Kiev 4 (yes, the one for sell) is quite accurate. And a good selenium meter lasts forever. The viewfinder is accurate and bright; but "squinty" with my glasses. The RF spot is very bright and well defined.

But the M3 viewfinder is superior; as it should be at 10x~20x the cost of a same condition Kiev. The M3 viewfinder (and Canon, and Nikon) is most likely what put Zeiss out of the RF business in the early '60s. The Kiev 5 did something to update the finder; and if that Selenium meter had been left off and the reliability had been better I wonder if all Contax users would have made the switch.
 
a very nice one too.

if i had an extra 50 bucks in my camera fund it would be on it's way here. but i'm saving for another 'p'

joe
 
Asides from the "contax/kiev grip" that you have to get used to, I like my Kiev 3a very much. The meter still works on mine, and it is very quiet, about the same as my Leica IIIa... of course, with the collapsible Elmar, the Leica is alot smaller.

Considering too that the Kiev is so much heavier, I should be able to handhold this at a much slower speed too.
 
Brian Sweeney said:
..., and having to keep the rewind button pressed in while rewinding takes a little getting used to.

I've never had to keep the button pressed down! I assume you mean the rewind release button. Correct me if I'm wrong but... you can push it down and twist it. Than it stays stuck so you can use one hand to hold the camera while you rewind the film with your other hand. No need to hold the camera AND push that little button down.
 
I will give that a try! I do not have a manual, and should look at one online.

Was good practice for the M2 Though!
 
I prefer my FED2 becourse I still - after long trying - can´t get used to focus with the right "longfinger" on the tagged wheel on my Kiev 4. (One must use the "longfinger" on Kiev 4, with the "pointfinger" one shades the wiew- / focuswindow.)
 
svwa said:
I prefer my FED2 becourse I still - after long trying - can´t get used to focus with the right "longfinger" on the tagged wheel on my Kiev 4. (One must use the "longfinger" on Kiev 4, with the "pointfinger" one shades the wiew- / focuswindow.)

Ehm...
What about focusing directly on rotating the lens?
:)
 
I finished off the roll on the Kiev 4 this weekend; testing the flash sync. When rewinding, I had to hold the rewind button in. If it turns and locks, I am not getting it. This is a 1979 vintage Kiev 4. Is there a trick that I am missing?

Once I got the hang of the focus wheel on the Contax, Kiev, and Nikons it proved to be a handy feature. The Contax and Kiev are quite smooth; I cleaned out the helicals of my SP to where it is quite good not.
 
One problem to focus with the left hand on the lens is that the lens "locks" when set at infinity and the "only" way to open up that lock is by pressing the metallflat-buttom that is integrated to the focusing tagged wheel.
One also risks to change aperture when turning the lens by (left) hand as the aperture ring is wery broad and takes up most of the lens.
 
Another way to unlock the infinity focus is to press (toward the lens) the pin located on the body between the viewfinder window and the lens.
 
What's the point in that feature, locking lens at infinity? And, can it not be modified if it's more annoying than useful? (think unscrew, break/cut/file off something...after all, it's not a Leica!)
 
I don´t know how it is on other lenses, but the whole Helios 53 mm/1,8 lens I have on my Kiev 4 rotates when I change focus. And what happens then is that the aperture dot and numbers rotate too. One can´t see what the aperture is unless one turns the camera sidewards or upside down. With focus on about 10 feet (3 meters) the "dotpoint" for aperture-number is pointing about downwards. That why one often has to turn the lens to infinity, else one doesn´t know what the aperture is. And if one try to change the aperture without the lens in locked position (at infinity) the whole lens rotates. It is also rather easy to change the aperture by mistake if one tries to focus with the left hand on the lens.

Yes, it is possibly to press the little sharp pin so the infinity-lock releases, but it is not so easy to do that when the camera is in front of ones face. It is not easy to find that small pin and press it sidewards while You are looking in the rangefinder and try to focus.

Yes, I like my Kiev 4, but I just can´t get used to the system to focus. And thats why I prefer FED 2.
 
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The infinity lock holds the body's focussing helical down when taking off the normal lens. I think it would be harder without the lens locked at infinity to press in the locking tab and rotate the lens off. Same with the Leica infinity lock; it is easier to unscrew the lens when it stays still; ie does not rotate against the focus.

It is certainly possible to disable this feature: all lenses that use the external mount do it: just push up on the "Sense pin". The external mount lenses do so; tape it, glue it, etc. Another way to do it is to fill up the hole in the helical itself. The lock works by dropping into a small cutout in the helical. Find it, and put a piece of rubber (or something) in it to prevent the lock pin fron dropping into place. You should be able to do this without removing the helical.

For me, I have just gotten use to the infinity lock and have no problem with pressing the release and using the focus wheel on the Kiev, Contax, and Nikons.
 
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