brachal
Refrigerated User
I'm always amazed by the number of people who think it's easier to remove the lens, hold the shutter open, sometimes stuff a card into the back of the camera, and then wiggle the film into position. I trim all of my leaders, and have never had a problem loading the camera the way its designer intended. If you need a template, you can buy one on ebay or make a guide yourself with a piece of cardboard. A template isn't necessary though.
peterm1
Veteran
I have had much the same happen to me when I neglectfully cut thru one of the film sprocket holes. The film tore at that point - any square corner is a weak spot is what I take from this experience. So- also avoid cutting thru a hole and always curve the "bend" where the "thin bit joins the fat bit!"
I do not however bother with a template - I have done it so many times now that I can almost make the cut with my eyes closed.
I do not however bother with a template - I have done it so many times now that I can almost make the cut with my eyes closed.
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Vince Lupo
Whatever
I'm always amazed by the number of people who think it's easier to remove the lens, hold the shutter open, sometimes stuff a card into the back of the camera, and then wiggle the film into position. I trim all of my leaders, and have never had a problem loading the camera the way its designer intended. If you need a template, you can buy one on ebay or make a guide yourself with a piece of cardboard. A template isn't necessary though.
Well, I suppose it's all in what you're used to doing. I've been doing the 'set the shutter on 'T', remove the lens' routine for about 26 years (I don't use a card though, just my finger) and it's never been a problem. Of course, if you're trying to do it on the fly, it can be a bit precarious juggling a lens, baseplate, camera and film without dropping anything, but I've never had that happen either. I'd personally find the leader cutting a bit of an annoyance, but that's just me.
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
Illustrated Instructions
Illustrated Instructions
Marko, see this page:
Leica Loading
http://www.zorkikat.com/entering-fr...-also-for-fed-zorki-and-canon-rf-cameras/115/
Illustrated Instructions
Marko, see this page:
Leica Loading
http://www.zorkikat.com/entering-fr...-also-for-fed-zorki-and-canon-rf-cameras/115/
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
Well, I suppose it's all in what you're used to doing. I've been doing the 'set the shutter on 'T', remove the lens' routine for about 26 years (I don't use a card though, just my finger) and it's never been a problem. Of course, if you're trying to do it on the fly, it can be a bit precarious juggling a lens, baseplate, camera and film without dropping anything, but I've never had that happen either. I'd personally find the leader cutting a bit of an annoyance, but that's just me.
But have you thought about the extra efforts of holding the shutter open, removing the lens, poking through the 'throat' to pull the film in, and then going through the actions of bottom loading....I think it's a pretty messy process.
I loaded my first 'bottom loader' in 1984. I recently found the leader I cut for that- after failing with the first attempt using the factory load, I figured that the diagram on the bottom of the crate meant something, and cut the leader according to how it looked. After that, I realised that there was really no other better way than loading these Leicas- the way its inventor meant it...
Film Loading and Leader Cutting
brachal
Refrigerated User
I will usually pre-cut as many rolls as I think I'm likely to use in a day when I shoot the Leica. If I'm flying, I'll either throw a little Swiss Army knife in my checked bag or buy a cheap pair of nail scissors at my destination.
I don't like the idea of needlessly removing a lens. Every time you do, there's a chance you'll drop it, put a thumb on an exposed element, get dust in the camera, etc. I can cut proper leaders on 5 rolls of film in a couple of minutes ... then no worries.
I think this topic is a lot like politics or religion. Each side will probably have to agree to disagree.
I don't like the idea of needlessly removing a lens. Every time you do, there's a chance you'll drop it, put a thumb on an exposed element, get dust in the camera, etc. I can cut proper leaders on 5 rolls of film in a couple of minutes ... then no worries.
I think this topic is a lot like politics or religion. Each side will probably have to agree to disagree.
Vince Lupo
Whatever
But have you thought about the extra efforts of holding the shutter open, removing the lens, poking through the 'throat' to pull the film in, and then going through the actions of bottom loading....I think it's a pretty messy process.
I loaded my first 'bottom loader' in 1984. I recently found the leader I cut for that- after failing with the first attempt using the factory load, I figured that the diagram on the bottom of the crate meant something, and cut the leader according to how it looked. After that, I realised that there was really no other better way than loading these Leicas- the way its inventor meant it...
Film Loading and Leader Cutting
Thanks for the follow-up. Here again, it all depends on what you're used to doing. I don't really find it a 'messy' process because I've been doing it for 26 years. Holding the shutter open just involves putting the camera on 'T', and it stays open by itself. The only time I've found it to be a bit of a trick is when I'm also using a MOOLY motor with the transmission arm, but as I mentioned, you work out your own system.
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
I will usually pre-cut as many rolls as I think I'm
I don't like the idea of needlessly removing a lens. Every time you do, there's a chance you'll drop it, put a thumb on an exposed element, get dust in the camera, etc. I can cut proper leaders on 5 rolls of film in a couple of minutes ... then no worries.
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That's exactly it. The risks involved. And adding 3 or 4 more steps, plus the need for another hand (or place) where to put the lens in during the open shutter loading method.
"There is only one correct way to load these cameras: the RIGHT WAY."
and saw him with the guide and exacto knife. I have never cut the film and once loaded the film on a moving subway train in NYC with no problem at all. I set the lens to T, remove the lens, and load.
"RIGHT" as based on the instruction manuals issued by Leica, Canon, FED, Zorki, etc....can't these factory manuals be considered as authorities?
The blade/guide was shown to demonstrate how IT IS DONE IDEALLY. But as you can see, there's another picture which shows how a pair of scissors can do the same cut. There are also several sentences devoted to explaining that scissors can be used and the ABLON guide is not needed...you should have READ ON
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
I never cut the film, since it always got jammed like Marco's.
Simply wind the camera, set it to B or Z, take off bottom and lens. Fit uncut film leader into the spool. Insert spool and film halfway into their chambers. Press the shutter button and keep it pressed down. Now insert spool and film canister further, and use your index finger to make sure the film slides in along the pressure plate the way it should. Release shutter (remove finger first
), advance two shots to check transport, reinstall bottom plate and lens and you're done!
This way, I can choose any film I like from my bag (I usually carry several different films) without having to cut it first. Wááy easier!
Simply wind the camera, set it to B or Z, take off bottom and lens. Fit uncut film leader into the spool. Insert spool and film halfway into their chambers. Press the shutter button and keep it pressed down. Now insert spool and film canister further, and use your index finger to make sure the film slides in along the pressure plate the way it should. Release shutter (remove finger first
This way, I can choose any film I like from my bag (I usually carry several different films) without having to cut it first. Wááy easier!
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MarkoKovacevic
Well-known
I now just cut it on a long diagonal, spanning around 22 holes. It looks like the drawing on the shutter crate, and it always works. I personally feel its too risky to take off the lens, and stick your finger through the shutter. It also damages the pressure plate by using too much pressure, and its already so many steps!
Melvin
Flim Forever!
Whether you cut the leader or not, Barnacks load just like an M2 or M3, except there's no door to check if the sprockets are in the holes. Instead you just look down into the body with some good light(e.g.by the window). All the stuff about taking the lens off, shutter on "t"...etc. is unnecessary.
p.s. I noticed that some films seem thicker and more prone to splitting, namely Velvia. I reloaded a roll of Velvia onto a Leitz cassette and lost about half the film to my ineptitude. Lesson learned: don't reload Velvia onto Leitz cassettes.
p.s. I noticed that some films seem thicker and more prone to splitting, namely Velvia. I reloaded a roll of Velvia onto a Leitz cassette and lost about half the film to my ineptitude. Lesson learned: don't reload Velvia onto Leitz cassettes.
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Ronald M
Veteran
Trim it with a proper template. Other methods may work sometimes but it is a matter of time until you screw up. Sure you can force the film into the channel with the shutter on time and a few other tricks, but don`t do it.
I let one pair of opposing sprocket holes show outside the felt, load the take up, , then advance with the bottom off so I know the thing is going to load. Take up slack and watch the film unspool as you wind. 1/4 turn and you know all is ok. Replace the bottom and keep going.
I let one pair of opposing sprocket holes show outside the felt, load the take up, , then advance with the bottom off so I know the thing is going to load. Take up slack and watch the film unspool as you wind. 1/4 turn and you know all is ok. Replace the bottom and keep going.
Vince Lupo
Whatever
This way, I can choose any film I like from my bag (I usually carry several different films) without having to cut it first. Wááy easier!
And if you're away on vacation - particularly in another country - and you have to buy more film, you can simply use it without having to worry about cutting anything.
Luddite Frank
Well-known
I prefer loading pre-cut film; would rather not have to pull the lens, etc , especially when on my feet.
I think the most important detail, when trimming the film, is a smooth cut: no nicks or sharp corners that can catch in the film-gate.
The factory trim has a very smooth ("polished" ? ) edge to the film; I have found that scissors cuts can be a little ragged.
Might try trimming with a knife and the template (I have one that came with a used Watson 66 bulk-film loader).
Like most processes, find a method that works for you, learn it well, and stick with it.
If you consistently have problems, it may be time to investigate another approach. Certainly the mfr's ( E. Leitz's ) method seems a good point of departure.
I have shot hundreds of pre-trimmed rolls in my Barnack's over the last two years, w/o incident.
Caerful attention to detail is well-served here...
Cheers !
LF
I think the most important detail, when trimming the film, is a smooth cut: no nicks or sharp corners that can catch in the film-gate.
The factory trim has a very smooth ("polished" ? ) edge to the film; I have found that scissors cuts can be a little ragged.
Might try trimming with a knife and the template (I have one that came with a used Watson 66 bulk-film loader).
Like most processes, find a method that works for you, learn it well, and stick with it.
If you consistently have problems, it may be time to investigate another approach. Certainly the mfr's ( E. Leitz's ) method seems a good point of departure.
I have shot hundreds of pre-trimmed rolls in my Barnack's over the last two years, w/o incident.
Caerful attention to detail is well-served here...
Cheers !
LF
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I remove 8 additional sprocket holes of film. That's the length of one frame; an arbitrary decision which has worked out so well that I've seldom been tempted to experiment with other lengths. I suppose 4 or 6 holes might be enough, but I've not tried it. I aim the scissors (swiss army executive model) to finish between two sprocket holes. I shot over 20 rolls in France and Finland this way, with no problems.
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