Film developer test

[thebelbo]

Dear all,

Great to be here!

I'm trying to determine whether my film developer (Ilfosol 3) works and to what degree. I usually develop multiple films at a time, leaving quite a bit of time in-between. As a result, once more I'm not sure whether my developer has expired or not. I hate waste.

It's been 8 months since I've opened the bottle, without having reopen it in-between. I've done a google but could not find a way of testing (a) whether it works, but also (b) if it works whether I need to extend times and by how much. I don't have a full film to develop as a test, but I do have a lot of leaders I could use for the test. The only interesting idea I've read was to dip the leader on the solution, wait until it becomes grey and then the development time is x5, not sure whether it works.

Any other ideas?

thank you in advance,

Belbo

 

[charjohncarter]

If you don't develop often maybe try Ilford's HC-110 clone, or Rodinal. Both of these can easily be used one shot. I use them both (Rodinal, HC-110h); one shot, and at least I don't worry about ruining film, which like you I don't want to waste.

 

[bcli]

Welcome!
I think you take a chance, since it isn't clear how well it was stored and whether there were other variables which could affect the chemistry. While it's definitely appreciated not wanting to waste material, both on principle and economically, your film efforts/pictures are worth more than one preparation of developer. There is a methodology that you can use densitometry, but unless you have a densitometer lying around, not sure that it's worth it. FWIW. Good luck in finding an approach.

Dear all,

Great to be here!

I'm trying to determine whether my film developer (Ilfosol 3) works and to what degree. I usually develop multiple films at a time, leaving quite a bit of time in-between. As a result, once more I'm not sure whether my developer has expired or not. I hate waste.

It's been 8 months since I've opened the bottle, without having reopen it in-between. I've done a google but could not find a way of testing (a) whether it works, but also (b) if it works whether I need to extend times and by how much. I don't have a full film to develop as a test, but I do have a lot of leaders I could use for the test. The only interesting idea I've read was to dip the leader on the solution, wait until it becomes grey and then the development time is x5, not sure whether it works.

Any other ideas?

thank you in advance,

Belbo

 

[CliveC]

If you don't develop often maybe try Ilford's HC-110 clone, or Rodinal. Both of these can easily be used one shot. I use them both (Rodinal, HC-110h); one shot, and at least I don't worry about ruining film, which like you I don't want to waste.

Does one need to test the potency of one-shot developers? I was sold a bottle of HC110 that looks quite old. I've been told, however, that HC110 essentially has an unlimited shelflife.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I would not take a chance with very old developer. Developers are very inexpensive compared to the cost of the film you'll ruin if the chemicals have gone bad, not to mention the cost to you of losing the photos that you will have to reshoot...if they can even be reshot.

 

[charjohncarter]

Does one need to test the potency of one-shot developers? I was sold a bottle of HC110 that looks quite old. I've been told, however, that HC110 essentially has an unlimited shelflife.

I've been through many bottles of HC-110, mine have been light brown when new. They do seem to darken some after opening. But I have never had to change my development times as the bottle ages. I personally feel that one shot gives me the best consistency, as I do not do a huge volume of development.

I also want everything the same or at least the same as possible, so I use one shot. I also try to agitate, time, control temperature, and expose with one meter for all cameras. I do use an on-board camera meters but I also have my Sekonic L308s with me to verify my exposures.

I know that sounds 'up tight' but I'm just happier this way.

 

[leicapixie]

The OP asked about Ilfosol 3.
Not Rodinal or HC-110.
I use Rodinal(Blazinol in Canada).
It does not keep as well as the original Agfa Rodinal.
I am about to try HC-110.
I know nothing about Ilfosol 3.
Suggest write Ilford.

 

[gb hill]

Dear all,

Great to be here!

I'm trying to determine whether my film developer (Ilfosol 3) works and to what degree. I usually develop multiple films at a time, leaving quite a bit of time in-between. As a result, once more I'm not sure whether my developer has expired or not. I hate waste.

It's been 8 months since I've opened the bottle, without having reopen it in-between. I've done a google but could not find a way of testing (a) whether it works, but also (b) if it works whether I need to extend times and by how much. I don't have a full film to develop as a test, but I do have a lot of leaders I could use for the test. The only interesting idea I've read was to dip the leader on the solution, wait until it becomes grey and then the development time is x5, not sure whether it works.

Any other ideas?

thank you in advance,

Belbo

Ilford PDF states it will keep for 24 months in a fully tight capped bottle & 4 months in a half tight capped bottle. So if your bottle has been stored properly & the cap tight you should be ok.

 

[swifty63]

Hi thebelbo,
I use Ilfosol 3 regularly. Ilford give 24 months in fully tight capped bottles, and 4 months in half tight capped bottles - whatever that may mean! To me, that means 4 months after opening. If I have an opened bottle, I will not use it beyond 4 months after opening, I never skimp on developer as it is pointless to risk the images on the film!
I also use the trick (which I got from this forum) of filling the developer back up to near-full by dropping marbles into the bottle and gently squeezing so that the liquid is almost at the brim before screwing on the lid, so helps minimize oxidation of the developer.

 

[mfogiel]

With the Ilfosol you have mentioned, do as Ilford suggests. For the future, I suggest 2 options:
Rodinal or HC 110 as said, will last "forever". In practice, I have noticed that when I was at the very end of a 0.5 liter bottle of Rodinal, the development times had to get 20% longer to stay even. This bottle was in use for 2 years. On the other hand, my 2 years old ( since opening) 1 liter HC 110, while completely brown, was still working as new.
Alternative:
For developers, that need lower dilutions and are not as durable after opening ( D76 or DD X for example ) I adopt the beer strategy:
- for D76 I buy 1 gallon of powder and 8 Grolsch Beer 450CC bottles, for DD - X I buy 1 liter of DD X and 6 Heineken Beer 150CC bottles.
You drink the beer, wash and dry the bottles first.
Then you divide the developer (after you dilute in case of D76), and tightly cap the bottles. This leaves me with 8 one shot portions of D76 and 6 portions of DD-X, plus (in case of DD X) some excess, which you can use as one shot in a slightly bigger dilution. I use stainless steel 900 CC tanks. If you like other dilutions, look for pharmaceutical brown glass bottles of different capacity and proceed in the same way.
WARNING:
Place some well visible label on the bottles, that the content can be poisonous, and store the bottles in a cool dark place, away from the reach of children.

 

[Chris101]

... WARNING:
Place some well visible label on the bottles, that the content can be poisonous, and store the bottles in a cool dark place, away from the reach of children.

I know! Because Grolsch is delicious! You can never tell: one day, late at night, you're rummaging around in the fridge and think you've hit the jackpot! Then you notice it's a bit bitter ... 🙁

 

[ChrisN]

Why not shoot a short test roll and develop that?

 

[lawrence]

To check if developer is active I use the film leader rather than a whole roll. Just dev and fix in daylight and if it isn't black after fixing the developer has gone off.

 

[ChrisLivsey]

When I first became interested in photography… my idea was to have it recognized as one of the fine arts. Today I don’t give a hoot in hell about that. The mission of photography is to explain man to man and each to himself. And that is the most complicated things on earth and almost as naïve as a tender plant. - Edward Steichen - as commented on his 90th birthday., Collection, Use, and Care of Historical Photographs by Robert A. Weinstein , ISBN: 091005021X , Page: 16

Actually 😉

 

[john_s]

To check if developer is active I use the film leader rather than a whole roll. Just dev and fix in daylight and if it isn't black after fixing the developer has gone off.

I've always wondered if this is a good enough test for a developer that has declined in potency somewhat but can still produce black on grossly overexposed leader.

 

[sevo]

I've always wondered if this is a good enough test for a developer that has declined in potency somewhat but can still produce black on grossly overexposed leader.

It ought to be good enough for developers notorious for their unused stock suddenly tipping over to complete inactivity - most notably Xtol. But in many other cases the developer can turn bad in more ways than just going inactive, and nothing short of a test clip or test wedge will tell.

 

[Ronald M]

I would not take a chance with very old developer. Developers are very inexpensive compared to the cost of the film you'll ruin if the chemicals have gone bad, not to mention the cost to you of losing the photos that you will have to reshoot...if they can even be reshot.

Yes for SURE.

I home brew D76 a liter at a time for $2, put it small one time use bottles, 125 mm or 4 oz, date the batch and toss it in 6 months if any is left.

Ilfosol will not turn color if it goes bad, neither will DDX or Xtol. This means a crap shoot to me.

 

[CliveC]

The OP asked about Ilfosol 3.
Not Rodinal or HC-110.
I use Rodinal(Blazinol in Canada).
It does not keep as well as the original Agfa Rodinal.
I am about to try HC-110.
I know nothing about Ilfosol 3.
Suggest write Ilford.

I picked up a bottle of Blazinol at one of the local camera shows (perhaps you've been as well?). Haven't cracked it open yet, but what timelines are you talking about when you say it doesn't last as long?

 

[leicapixie]

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138045

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138045

The Blazinol is less than a year old.
This is my 3rd bottle.
The 2nd bottle cracked open and leaked out..
It is stored at bottom, of kitchen cupboard.
No extremes of temperature.

The 3rd bottle has a deposit and pieces floating around..
I filtered the mixed solution.
There was awful debris trapped in the filters..
I worried that it might be concentrated developer.
I added about 20% time.
Seemed fine.
However I am moving to Kodak HC 110.

 

[thebelbo]

Wow, big thanks to everyone for taking the time to answer!

Although I really enjoy developing and printing, managing the chemicals is a problem if you don't do it frequently enough. I guess the problem is mainly with the developer because the fixer lasts a lot more (and there is a very easy test to check whether it works or not). I'm probably going to risk it and use the developer testing it first with the film leader (as I said I hate waste), but I'm switching to HC-110 per your advice: if it lasts at least 2 years I'm happy with it (still this thing is expensive, my photo shop sells it for 27 Euros - I'd rather buy a malt!).

thanks again for all the good ideas!

Belbo