pagpow
Well-known
I own a Widelux V -- sometimes it bands, sometimes it doesn't. It seems to band more with chrome than B&W films. Besides the narrower latitude of chrome, I was told this was due to the greater thickness of chrome film. (?)
Recently bouight a Horizon 202. Seller claimed no banding. And it is true the banding, on chrome, was more subtle than on the Widelux, but banding there is
Now I read that these cameras "are made for B&W' and/or C41?
Do your experiences bear any of this out? Do any of you shoot chrome successfully in these cameras? Do any of you shoot ONLY B&W film?
Finally, some suggest that banding can be reduced by massaging the lens, rotating it back and forth through its arc manually before a shooting session. Your experience?
Spill
Recently bouight a Horizon 202. Seller claimed no banding. And it is true the banding, on chrome, was more subtle than on the Widelux, but banding there is
Now I read that these cameras "are made for B&W' and/or C41?
Do your experiences bear any of this out? Do any of you shoot chrome successfully in these cameras? Do any of you shoot ONLY B&W film?
Finally, some suggest that banding can be reduced by massaging the lens, rotating it back and forth through its arc manually before a shooting session. Your experience?
Spill
Graybeard
Longtime IIIf User
It isn't likely that the type of film used will influence if banding occurs. The film doesn't contact the lens turret rotation mechanism in either a Widelux or a Horizon and it is very difficult to see how the film thickness could have any influence.
Exercising the lens turret on a Widelux is eveidently common practice. The lens turret can be moved and released with the fingers without exposing the film. If the turret mechanism is sluggish (banding) due to thickened lubricants, this will ofter free it temporarily.
Exercising the lens turret on a Widelux is eveidently common practice. The lens turret can be moved and released with the fingers without exposing the film. If the turret mechanism is sluggish (banding) due to thickened lubricants, this will ofter free it temporarily.
robertdfeinman
Robert Feinman
Both cameras have fussy mechanisms and always cause problems at times. The Noblex has a much better mechanism and, personally, I've never had a problem with banding using it.
The type of film can't have any effect on the mechanical operation, but transparency films are developed to a higher contrast that negatives so the banding is more visible on the film. When prints are made from negatives the final contrast is still less than viewing transparencies so banding remains less visible.
Perhaps cycling the camera without film a dozen times or so before going out for shooting might help. Cold temperatures may also cause problems.
The type of film can't have any effect on the mechanical operation, but transparency films are developed to a higher contrast that negatives so the banding is more visible on the film. When prints are made from negatives the final contrast is still less than viewing transparencies so banding remains less visible.
Perhaps cycling the camera without film a dozen times or so before going out for shooting might help. Cold temperatures may also cause problems.
europanorama
Well-known
i would let 202 be repaired by a good repairman. i could give you the adress of mine here in switzerland. he has also made an artpanorama-shift/rotate mechanism for 90mm.
i would first test a newer s3-pro(they changed lesn-position to get better DOF. see other thread. dont ask me which of them are newer. ask kmz-zenit (mr manchuk)from which no. they changed. let us know. there was-probably still is- a fstop-16 problem(see on other thread).
test-shoot s3-pro by shooting small details at 5-6m and check fstop 8, 11 and 16. you need scan but a large loupe(30x min.) if 16 is identical to 11 then you are a very lucky man. after repair of mine i was told it will look similar which i dont accept. pls dont ask me further. its an ongoing process. i bought the camera 2004 from michael fourman, wanted him to test, but he has no time. then i recognized the problem. but s3-pro has or had only this problem compared to 202. and it has additional, most important quick 1/30 for indoors shooting of people. exposure time which i already appreciated in old horizont. alreay in this horizont we added tape(even metallic to increase DOF. one man added slow-rotation-mechanism(very loud). loudness: yes new s3-pro is much more silent. forget using 202 or the other old models in a silent area.
repairman: i am sure there must be an expert in your country. ask in panphoto.forum or photo.net
i would first test a newer s3-pro(they changed lesn-position to get better DOF. see other thread. dont ask me which of them are newer. ask kmz-zenit (mr manchuk)from which no. they changed. let us know. there was-probably still is- a fstop-16 problem(see on other thread).
test-shoot s3-pro by shooting small details at 5-6m and check fstop 8, 11 and 16. you need scan but a large loupe(30x min.) if 16 is identical to 11 then you are a very lucky man. after repair of mine i was told it will look similar which i dont accept. pls dont ask me further. its an ongoing process. i bought the camera 2004 from michael fourman, wanted him to test, but he has no time. then i recognized the problem. but s3-pro has or had only this problem compared to 202. and it has additional, most important quick 1/30 for indoors shooting of people. exposure time which i already appreciated in old horizont. alreay in this horizont we added tape(even metallic to increase DOF. one man added slow-rotation-mechanism(very loud). loudness: yes new s3-pro is much more silent. forget using 202 or the other old models in a silent area.
repairman: i am sure there must be an expert in your country. ask in panphoto.forum or photo.net