Bill58
Native Texan
I just exposed a roll of Neopan 100 Acros B+W w/ the film speed on my QL-17 set on 400! Can I just ask the developer to process at 400?
I think I've made every other mistake in the book, but this one is a first for me.
Advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
I think I've made every other mistake in the book, but this one is a first for me.
Advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
ChrisN
Striving
I've been watching this post for a response - nill so far!
I haven't used Neopan Across 100 and don't know its characteristics. That said, you've under-exposed by two stops, which means the exposure has failed to record a lot of shadow detail. The best result you can aim for is to increase contrast by increasing the the development time. I'd try developing the film for 50% longer than the standard time.
Good luck!
I haven't used Neopan Across 100 and don't know its characteristics. That said, you've under-exposed by two stops, which means the exposure has failed to record a lot of shadow detail. The best result you can aim for is to increase contrast by increasing the the development time. I'd try developing the film for 50% longer than the standard time.
Good luck!
Richard G
Veteran
I've accidentally under exposed colour negative by one stop and liked the result. It's meant to be intolerant of under exposure. The Neopan should be more tolerant. Might be fine.
sig
Well-known
Yes that is what you do
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Well, "the developer" will presumably be a lab souping it in a strongly compensating developer - they often cannot do anything about it unless you pay for having a entire batch run at a extended development time. But even if they don't, a two stop underexposure won't look that horrible in the developers they use - many will nod friendly to your request, do nothing and you'll still be as satisfied (or frustrated) with the results as if they had indeed pushed. In general, pushing will save the highlights but boost the contrast, which isn't always that much better than having a underexposed film with manageable contrast. Either way, you should expect to lose the already underexposed frames while you will gain some others that you'd otherwise have overexposed. The bulk will still be printable, maybe a bit more dark and dramatic.
If you can do it yourself, a two stage developer would give it enough of a boost to rescue it entirely...
If you can do it yourself, a two stage developer would give it enough of a boost to rescue it entirely...
ddutchison
Well-known
Live and learn. It's a better mistake than pouring the fixer into a 4 roll developing tank before the developer
. Discuss your options with the lab, maybe with several labs.
. Discuss your options with the lab, maybe with several labs.
randomm
Well-known
Wasn't there some rule of thumb about 40% increase per stop? That would mean that as the time for 100 ASA is in D-76 is 7min15sec (http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Neopan+100+Acros&Developer=D-76&mdc=Search), then you first increase it by 40% to get that extra stop (10min10sec approx), and increase it again another 40% for the second stop and end up with total development of 14min15seconds approximately... sorry did these in my head!
I'd give that a go.
oftheherd
Veteran
Bummer. I have done the same, as well as intentional pushing of film. But then I usually develop my own b/w, something you apparently aren't set up to do. I don't remember where you are, nor do I know if military craft shops still support development of film (If your are retired military or know a military member), or maybe a local university?
I haven't used Neopan, but Tri-X used to push pretty good in D-76 1:1 up to 1600.
Good luck anyway.
I haven't used Neopan, but Tri-X used to push pretty good in D-76 1:1 up to 1600.
Good luck anyway.
bigeye
Well-known
What's the fuss? A simple +2 push dev. Might see some grain with a push(?) on that film.
You'll be just as disappointed with a +2 pushed roll as with regular exposures developed at a shop. B&W is a DIY sport.
old thread on pushing it
You'll be just as disappointed with a +2 pushed roll as with regular exposures developed at a shop. B&W is a DIY sport.
old thread on pushing it
ddutchison
Well-known
Well there will be a significant increase in contrast (more bothersome - IMHO - than the increase in grain) - and ISO 100 films are already inherently more contrasty than faster films. Combined with the loss of shadow detail (as already explained above) I'd say the results will be far less desirable than what you would have obtained by using a faster ISO film.
A good lab will have dealt with this kind of situation before. Ask them. If they sound like don't give a hoot about your problem, try a different lab