Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I've googled all over, but I just can't seem to find what filters and hoods would fit my little Collapsible Tessar.
Is it a 25mm-ish screw-in or a 40mm-something clamp-on?
I know pre-war Zeiss hoods and filters are hard to find, but this is ridiculous
Any hints, tips and advice appreciated.
Is it a 25mm-ish screw-in or a 40mm-something clamp-on?
I know pre-war Zeiss hoods and filters are hard to find, but this is ridiculous
Any hints, tips and advice appreciated.
Highway 61
Revisited
Push-on A42 filters and hoods.
So you have to look for some "42mm hood" and "42mm filter" on the 'bay and pick-up some push-on goodies.
The "42mm push" keywords will work pretty well...
So you have to look for some "42mm hood" and "42mm filter" on the 'bay and pick-up some push-on goodies.
The "42mm push" keywords will work pretty well...
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Excellent! Thanks 
dsymes
Established
An alternative to the 42mm push-on filters is 25.5mm screw in filters. A screw in filter allows you to adjust the aperture without removing the filter. Also less likely to fall off!
Although you can easily get a Pentax 25.5mm UV filter that was originally made for a Pentax 110 camera, b&w contrast filters do come up every now and then. I have a Minolta 25.5mm filter in y48 (yellow), and several filters made specially for the Super Nettel. The Super Nettel filters are very thin to allow the camera to fold closed with the filter in place.
You can also buy a Hoya 25.5 UV filter and replace the UV glass with a disk cut from a larger filter of whatever color you like. The Hoya filter holds the glass in place with a threaded retaining ring that is easily removed with a spanner wrench. I bought three of these but haven't yet switched the glass. The more commonly available Pentax filters appear to hold the glass in place with a pressed-in aluminum ring that is not easily removed. The Minolta filter also has a retaining ring and is a little thinner than the Hoya, but I have seen fewer of them.
I realize that the above begs the question of how to cut the correct size filter disk from a larger filter. I would suggest that you contact your local amateur astronomy club and talk with some amateur telescope makers. Cutting a small disk out of a filter is done in a drill press with a hole saw (cookie cutter!) made from a piece of brass tubing with slightly larger ID than the disk you would like and a slurry of silicone carbide and water. The technique is similar to that used to make an diagonal secondary mirror for a Newtonian telescope, and is described in telescope making books.
Although you can easily get a Pentax 25.5mm UV filter that was originally made for a Pentax 110 camera, b&w contrast filters do come up every now and then. I have a Minolta 25.5mm filter in y48 (yellow), and several filters made specially for the Super Nettel. The Super Nettel filters are very thin to allow the camera to fold closed with the filter in place.
You can also buy a Hoya 25.5 UV filter and replace the UV glass with a disk cut from a larger filter of whatever color you like. The Hoya filter holds the glass in place with a threaded retaining ring that is easily removed with a spanner wrench. I bought three of these but haven't yet switched the glass. The more commonly available Pentax filters appear to hold the glass in place with a pressed-in aluminum ring that is not easily removed. The Minolta filter also has a retaining ring and is a little thinner than the Hoya, but I have seen fewer of them.
I realize that the above begs the question of how to cut the correct size filter disk from a larger filter. I would suggest that you contact your local amateur astronomy club and talk with some amateur telescope makers. Cutting a small disk out of a filter is done in a drill press with a hole saw (cookie cutter!) made from a piece of brass tubing with slightly larger ID than the disk you would like and a slurry of silicone carbide and water. The technique is similar to that used to make an diagonal secondary mirror for a Newtonian telescope, and is described in telescope making books.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Thanks,
The 25.5mm size had me confused for a second as I was under the mistaken impression that Tiffen #505 filter adapter I use on my Signet 35 was the same size for the Tessar. It wasn't.
But yeah, Screw-in filters would be a lot easier then full size push-on ones.
I use a 19mm Walz filter set (for Argus C-3) on my Leitz 35 and 50 Elmars.
I also recently picked up a Walz 40.5mm screw-in filter set for my Sonnar.
Gentleman, the hunt is on! Ebay here I come
The 25.5mm size had me confused for a second as I was under the mistaken impression that Tiffen #505 filter adapter I use on my Signet 35 was the same size for the Tessar. It wasn't.
But yeah, Screw-in filters would be a lot easier then full size push-on ones.
I use a 19mm Walz filter set (for Argus C-3) on my Leitz 35 and 50 Elmars.
I also recently picked up a Walz 40.5mm screw-in filter set for my Sonnar.
Gentleman, the hunt is on! Ebay here I come
Bill Jones
Contax Lens User
42 mm slip-on filters
42 mm slip-on filters
Manfred Schmidt (Chicago IL, USA) has some in stock. He also has a 42 mm slip-on lens shade.
Notes: 1) You can and I do adjust the f-stop with the filter on by turning the filter. This turns the f-stop ring on the lens. If the filter is very dark (deep red) it can be difficult to see the scale
2) The filters are only available for black and white work. No UV/protection filter and no polarizer.
3) Be sure to set the f-stop prior to focusing. Setting the f-stop can change your focus since the f-stop ring is stiffer than the focus by design.
4) All items are genuine Zeiss.
5) I have no relationship with this seller other than as a customer.
Link: http://www.manfredschmidt.com/zeiss.html
Bill
42 mm slip-on filters
Manfred Schmidt (Chicago IL, USA) has some in stock. He also has a 42 mm slip-on lens shade.
Notes: 1) You can and I do adjust the f-stop with the filter on by turning the filter. This turns the f-stop ring on the lens. If the filter is very dark (deep red) it can be difficult to see the scale
2) The filters are only available for black and white work. No UV/protection filter and no polarizer.
3) Be sure to set the f-stop prior to focusing. Setting the f-stop can change your focus since the f-stop ring is stiffer than the focus by design.
4) All items are genuine Zeiss.
5) I have no relationship with this seller other than as a customer.
Link: http://www.manfredschmidt.com/zeiss.html
Bill
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
The link and your notes are much appreciated Bill.
Though I'd love all my filters and hoods to be original Zeiss products for my pre-war contax. I think $20+ a piece is a little too much if I wanted to buy a full set in one go
Though I'd love all my filters and hoods to be original Zeiss products for my pre-war contax. I think $20+ a piece is a little too much if I wanted to buy a full set in one go
Dralowid
Michael
I have a small old push on hood that fits in the gap between aperture ring and lens.
Nice and compact though you have to be careful changing aperture
Nice and compact though you have to be careful changing aperture
S.H.
Picture taker
FYI, a telescopic hood for the various 5cm existed; it is mounted on the external body mount :
http://www.kevincameras.com/gallery...pic_hood_1/zeiss_telescopic_hood_1_1.jpg.html
I found one last week very cheaply, without logo, like an early prewar version / prototype. It should do the job nicely, excepts it prevents from using the aperture ring
. Collectors only I suppose.
http://www.kevincameras.com/gallery...pic_hood_1/zeiss_telescopic_hood_1_1.jpg.html
I found one last week very cheaply, without logo, like an early prewar version / prototype. It should do the job nicely, excepts it prevents from using the aperture ring
Bill Jones
Contax Lens User
Collapsable lens shade
Collapsable lens shade
S H since you have this already, you should be able to change the aperture on any collapsable Tessars you own by putting your finger in from the front and turning the ring with the lens locked on infinity focus. You can see the f-stop markings this way. Not the easiest way to go but it works.
These hoods typically go in the $100 range.
Bill
Collapsable lens shade
S H since you have this already, you should be able to change the aperture on any collapsable Tessars you own by putting your finger in from the front and turning the ring with the lens locked on infinity focus. You can see the f-stop markings this way. Not the easiest way to go but it works.
These hoods typically go in the $100 range.
Bill
S.H.
Picture taker
100€, wow. I paid the huge sum of 8euros for mine.
Thanks for the tip. I have only sonnar lenses (f2 rigid and collapsible, f1.5). With those you cannot set the aperture.
Thanks for the tip. I have only sonnar lenses (f2 rigid and collapsible, f1.5). With those you cannot set the aperture.
Bill Jones
Contax Lens User
Lenshood
Lenshood
S H,
You could try setting the aperture first and not re-adjusting it, but change the shutter speed. It would be like using the A setting on an automatic camera. It could get you something easier to use. With my newer Contaxes I often use A with an f-stop of 8.
Bill
Lenshood
S H,
You could try setting the aperture first and not re-adjusting it, but change the shutter speed. It would be like using the A setting on an automatic camera. It could get you something easier to use. With my newer Contaxes I often use A with an f-stop of 8.
Bill
furcafe
Veteran
Me, too. Unfortunately, I don't have the lens + hood or my Zeiss Ikon catalogs w/me & can't tell you the size. Mine is made by Enteco, an old U.S. maker of accessories, but IIRC, Zeiss made 1 as well (probably designated as A26 or A27).
Although it's bigger & more unwieldy, the regular A42 slip-on hood has the advantage of also working on the 50/1.5 & 50/2 Sonnars.
Although it's bigger & more unwieldy, the regular A42 slip-on hood has the advantage of also working on the 50/1.5 & 50/2 Sonnars.
I have a small old push on hood that fits in the gap between aperture ring and lens.
Nice and compact though you have to be careful changing aperture
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