Fine-Tuning Film Development

[Yoricko]

Used up my TMax Developer bottle a few days ago and just bought a bottle of HC-110. After doing some research on the net, some of the resources mentioned about the timings/agitation/temperature is different for everyone and the manufacturers timings are just the starting point.

How can I fine-tune my film development?

What are the differences between a thin and dense negative? (Lazy to search)

Usually, I just blindly follow the manufacturers timings and scan them and just apply some levels on them, and voila! I'm satisfied with the results.

Any rough starting point for Tri-X with Dilution H (1:63 / Dilution B x2) at 24ºC? The ones at the massive dev chart is the old version.

Some of the resources I've read through,
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Tri-X+400&Developer=HC-110&mdc=Search
http://www.mironchuk.com/hc-110.html
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/index.html
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
http://mysite.verizon.net/fowler/photo/hc110.htm
http://photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/008RO7
http://photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/008c7U

 

[Yoricko]

Any idea for timings for Tri-X at EI100?

 

[venchka]

There are the classic Zone System film speed and development time tests. These are best judged with electronic hardware.

ps: Is this 35mm Tri-X? Why expose it at 100? There are far too many fabulous 100-125 films around. My favorite is Kodak Plus-X and it's twin Arista Premium 100.

 

[dof]

I recommend that you check out Chris Johnson's The Practical Zone System. It details a highly useable method for establishing development times and temperatures based on your materials and workflow.

 

[titrisol]

Set your development time and agitation
Then sacrifice a roll and shoot a "normal" or "Controlled" image that covers the whole range of tones.
Shoot -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 or do it in half stops then leave a blank frame and repeat

Then develop a snippet of the roll (not the whole roll) and see how do the negatives look.
The ones shot n the - should look thin (i.e. ghostly) and the ones in the + side should look thick (i.e. bullet proof)
Finally proof-print or scan your negatives and see which is the one that looks best.
Then adjust your film speed in the camera for your development.
For TriX -2(1600), -1(800), 0(400), +1(200), +2(100)

 

[Yoricko]

There are the classic Zone System film speed and development time tests. These are best judged with electronic hardware.

ps: Is this 35mm Tri-X? Why expose it at 100? There are far too many fabulous 100-125 films around. My favorite is Kodak Plus-X and it's twin Arista Premium 100.

Aite, needed the low DoF for portraiture. Don't have any other film with me.

Just did HC-110 Dilution H, 7minutes 15seconds at 24ºC. results were acceptable.

I recommend that you check out Chris Johnson's The Practical Zone System. It details a highly useable method for establishing development times and temperatures based on your materials and workflow.

Thanks a ton mate!

Set your development time and agitation
Then sacrifice a roll and shoot a "normal" or "Controlled" image that covers the whole range of tones.
Shoot -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 or do it in half stops then leave a blank frame and repeat

Then develop a snippet of the roll (not the whole roll) and see how do the negatives look.
The ones shot n the - should look thin (i.e. ghostly) and the ones in the + side should look thick (i.e. bullet proof)
Finally proof-print or scan your negatives and see which is the one that looks best.
Then adjust your film speed in the camera for your development.
For TriX -2(1600), -1(800), 0(400), +1(200), +2(100)

Thanks! Will do it when I can find some spare time.

 

[Yoricko]

There are the classic Zone System film speed and development time tests. These are best judged with electronic hardware.

ps: Is this 35mm Tri-X? Why expose it at 100? There are far too many fabulous 100-125 films around. My favorite is Kodak Plus-X and it's twin Arista Premium 100.

Aite, needed the low DoF for portraiture. Don't have any other film with me.

Just did HC-110 Dilution H, 7minutes 15seconds at 24ºC. results were acceptable.

I recommend that you check out Chris Johnson's The Practical Zone System. It details a highly useable method for establishing development times and temperatures based on your materials and workflow.

Thanks a ton mate!

Set your development time and agitation
Then sacrifice a roll and shoot a "normal" or "Controlled" image that covers the whole range of tones.
Shoot -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 or do it in half stops then leave a blank frame and repeat

Then develop a snippet of the roll (not the whole roll) and see how do the negatives look.
The ones shot n the - should look thin (i.e. ghostly) and the ones in the + side should look thick (i.e. bullet proof)
Finally proof-print or scan your negatives and see which is the one that looks best.
Then adjust your film speed in the camera for your development.
For TriX -2(1600), -1(800), 0(400), +1(200), +2(100)

Thanks! Will do it when I can find some spare time.