finest grain B&W film?

css9450 said:
I really like RPX 25, yes I realize its the same as Retro 80S.

What happens with CMS 20 if its in some other developer? I am itching to try it but not really looking forward to altering my usual Rodinal 1:50 formula. I have seen several different and sometimes-contradictory recommendations for Rodinal.
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I bought two rolls of it a few months ago myself that I am yet to shoot. Given that the dedicated developer is not particularly cheap I have been curious about alternatives myself and have done a little searching online.
You can find some examples using Rodinal at this page from The Online Darkroom.

Also there are further images and information about processing methods in a continuation of the same discussion as above in Part Two and Part Three pages at The Online Darkroom.

The bottom line is if you don't use Adotech, expect a considerable loss of speed. I've never shot a really slow film before so the idea of rating it at EI 6 or so has some novelty value, I am not afraid to use a tripod when I need to. I thought the examples shown using HC-110 were good enough to try and it is a developer I have so will probably give that a go. But I think that Rodinal might be OK also if you are willing to alter your normal times and dilutions, see the linked text.
Cheers
Brett
 
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T-max 100 is a very sharp film it just doesn't always look that sharp because of its flatter contrast, lack of grain and grain structure. John Sexton used Tmax 100 and his results are pretty sharp not just because he shoots 4x5 but because he fine tuned the film. The secret of Tmax is that you have to fine tune the film it is in fact one of the most versatile films currently on the market. You can make it look like a film from the 1930's (glamour and such) or a very modern film with superb sharpness.
 
Sarcophilus Harrisii said:
The bottom line is if you don't use Adotech, expect a considerable loss of speed. I've never shot a really slow film before so the idea of rating it at EI 6 or so has some novelty value...
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Hello, Brett,

Indeed there is an appealing novelty factor to this film. I have paired it with an ND filter for some interesting effects with very slow shutter speeds; well, slow that is for sunny daylight conditions! I have tested it extensively with many developers and recommend all aspiring CMS photographers to do the same. Best done using a more-modern camera (IE, electronically-controlled) for more consistent long shutter speeds as opposed to very old vintage equipment where the slower speeds are often longer than specified. Bracket your exposures and take detailed notes.

Cheers, Robert
 
T type films.

Size of neg makes a difference.

Camera and lens. My Rolleiflex gives me some sharp contrasty beautiful negatives.

Developer, to me, nuances. I like ID-11/D-76. Also Mic-X from Freestyle. I use Rodinal with slow speed films. Stand develop.

I like ‘em all!

Happy holidays!
 
css9450 said:
I really like RPX 25, yes I realize its the same as Retro 80S.
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I have tested both films in the past, too. In comparison the Adox HR-50 delivers
- better shadow detail
- higher real speed
- better tonality, a more linear characteristic curve; it is easier to print
- lower price than RPX 25.

css9450 said:
What happens with CMS 20 if its in some other developer?
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You will lose performance: Especially you will lose speed (1-3 stops depending on the developer). And tonality, you will get worse characteristic curves.
It's like buying a new Ferrari, and then exchanging the engine and putting your old motor from your 50 year old VW Beetle in it ;).

Adox CMS 20 II and Adotech IV developer are a closed imaging system, two fine-tuned components for optimal results.
And its quite cheap, because you get medium format quality with 35mm and LF quality with 120.
Instead of buying 3 roll films I buy only one 35mm film. Therefore the cost per shot is lower with CMS 20 II compared to roll film (and lower for 120 compared to sheet film).
The price-performance ratio is excellent.
 
Finest grain is t Max 100 as a regular film not needing exotic developers. I mix D76.

Bergger 400 shot at 200 gives wonder results , somewhere between old films and state if the new ones.

One must realize there are other considerations other than fine grain. Delta gives a wonderful image with fine grain.
 
Tmax100, Neopan Acros 100 (gone), Kodak Technical Pan (gone), Bluefire Police (maybe not gone), and I've developed them all in HC-110 and/or Rodinal.

Years ago, 50 now, there was something called H&W that had to be developed in their own developer. But I could never get a good print until I tried to do H&W with a Digital editor.


H&W Copy Film; H&W developer by John Carter, on Flickr

then a blow-up:


H&W Copy Film; H&W developer by John Carter, on Flickr

But to answer your question in 2019 Tmax 100.
 
I use some ADOX CMS 20 II occasionally but I always soup it in the Adotech developer. That film is by far the finest grain I can get.

But for my day to day adventures I turn to TMX100 in either FX-37 or in Beutler(since I mix my own soup.) For those who are not inclined to mix their own developers then HC-110 is also a pretty good option.

This is all 35mm or 120 roll film. For large format I pretty much stick to HP5+ and D-23. I really don't see any need for the more exotic stuff in the large sheets.
 
I always thought shooting 35mm is all about showing grain. The essence of film photography is grain, isn't it? If you don't want grain, better shoot digital of MF film.
 
giganova said:
I always thought shooting 35mm is all about showing grain. The essence of film photography is grain, isn't it? If you don't want grain, better shoot digital of MF film.
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Ah, the beauty of film is it has character and even zero grain films show more character than digital.
 
^^ "Giganova" , to see the master of grain ( around here anyways ) you need go no further than "lynnb's" pictures of Aussie ferry travels :) , Peter
 
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