first rodinal experience

[digitalox]

Rodinal seems to be in these days, and I like a lot of what I've seen from so I though I'd give it a try. It didn't turn out to bad for the first time. I'm going to keep experimenting with this one.

Anyone know the specifics on the agitation for this? The instructions that came with it say agitate for the first 30 seconds, then 5 secs every 30 secs or something like that - but how many inversions should be done doing those times? I googled a lot but can't seem to find it, help!


Here's one from set, everythings a wee bit overexposed.
Details: Contax G1 35mm, ilford panf 50, rodinal, 75F, ~8:20, gently agitated for first 30 secs, then about 2 inversions every 30 secs. Auto lvls, sharpen in PS.

 

[back alley]

looks good.
those t-shirts look realistically (word?) white and i like the tones in it.
looks like a warm overcast day.
nice shot too.

joe

 

[digitalox]

Thanks Joe. PS brought the whites and blacks to this slightly muddy image - though that could be the fault of my scanner or my scanning abilities. One of these days I will do some printing in the darkroom and find out, but for now I just develop.

 

[24x30]

Re: first rodinal experience

Originally posted by digitalox
Anyone know the specifics on the agitation for this? The instructions that came with it say agitate for the first 30 seconds, then 5 secs every 30 secs or something like that - but how many inversions should be done doing those times? I googled a lot but can't seem to find it, help!

You care too much about the agitation ... how often can you do it in 5 seconds 🙂?
I prefer the 10 seconds/ 3-5 agitations per minute. Because this way I can do something else during the rest of the minute (clean up ... etc.).

I give the Ilford PanF+ exposure for 25ASA, and develop it in Rodinal 1+50 for 10:30 min. at 20°Celcius. This way I get a density of 1.2 to 1.6 logD (I measure the difference to the base between the images).

With Rodinal you can't develop completly wrong, there were always a result. There's just one thing to worry about: You can't drink it 🙂 (just joking).

/rudi

 

[GeneW]

Another Rodinal fan here. I even use it with fast films (Tri-X, Neopan 400). Slightly grainier but very, very sharp grain.

I agitate continuously the first 30 secs, then two gentle inversions each minute.

Great stuff, keeps forever. Not a speed enhancer though ...

Gene

 

[ZeissFan]

I usually agitate for the first minute and then a 90-degree tilt every 30 seconds followed by 1/3 rotation of the tank. I've also tried a complete inversion.

I've been using Rodinal for a long time. For the past couple of years, I've been using it with TMax. My TMax negatives always seemed a bit thin in TMax developer.

When possible, I use a dilution of 1:75. I'm going to try it with some Technical Pan. A friend of mine uses it at 1:300. So I'll give that a try.

My favorite combo: Agfapan APX 100 + Rodinal.

This summer, I found all of my old darkroom gear, including a bottle of Rodinal from 1990. I've been thinking of giving it a whirl to see if the stuff is still good.

 

[denishr]

This summer, I found all of my old darkroom gear, including a bottle of Rodinal from 1990. I've been thinking of giving it a whirl to see if the stuff is still good.

Mike, that stuff should be OK, provided it was sealed properly (air-tight).
I heard stories of Rodinal keeping forever - some claim they've tried 20-30 years old brew with no problems at all.

I'm testing TMax 400 with Rodinal Special recently. The results in (plain) Rodinal were a bit too grainy for my taste. BTW, Rodinal Special should be the same stuff as Studional.

Denis

 

[digitalox]

Thanks all.

Mike, I picked up some of the agfapan 100 when I got the Rodinal last Friday. Looking forward to burning what's left in the cameras so I can try it out.

Buit what do you mean by continous agitiation in the beginning? an inversion every second, every 5 secs???

 

[hoppinghippos]

Hi digitalox, I"m not sure if you're new to film development or just rodinal but I"ll tell you just the same, pardon if you already know all these, what he means is that just do the inversions continuosly for 30secs the no. of inversions is not impt, just invert at the normal pace you do for the whole development. (try to have a constant pace and technique to your inversion to have consistent results). after the 1st continuous agitation, agitate for 10secs (up to you but that's what I use) per min which works out to be roughly 2-4 inversions depending on your comfortable inversion speed. to me 1 inversion means a complete upside down and upright again. its up to you how you invert but what I do is I grip the bottom of the container with my right hand (I"m right handed) and hold the top with my left hand to ensure the lid doesn't come off. then i invert with my right hand, twisting the container a little as I do, my left hand merely supports it and allows the container to rotate on it (ie. doesn't grip it). then I bring it upright again with my right hand, rotating it the other way as I do so. all these are done gently and slowly.

The best way to go about it is to practice a little with the empty development container till you're comfortable with it. you'll find that its usu very consistent in speed and 10 sec agitation will always give you the same no. of repetitions.

Good luck!

 

[r-brian]

Rodinal

Rodinal

I've been using Rodinal for a while, most because of its staying power and because of its accutance. I've modified my agitation time to help control the contrast, and here in New Mexico you have contrast.

I agitate continuously for the first 30 sec. I then agitate for 5 sec. at the top of the minute and at the top of the next 2-3 minute mark. I then change my agitation cycle to every 2 minutes for the next 2-3 cycles. If time remains, and at 1:100 time still remains, I go to a 3 min. cycle. The reason for this is that the highlights develope fastest. The developer becomes exhausted next to the highlights but continue to work on the shadow areas. So far I've had good results.

The attached photo was taken on FP4+, developed in 1:100 Rodinal at 10% less than printed times (reduced development for condenser enlarger). The photo was taken with a non-rangefinder (Bronica SQa w/40mm lens) so is strictly for example purposes only.

 

[taffer]

Scott, I agree with Joe, looks nice and like those whites on the t-shirts. Often a muddy image direclty out of the scanner is in fact the best compromise, keeping more detail in both lights and shadows so you can adjust in PS later.

 

[digitalox]

Thanks very much for the tips everyone. I've just returned from a trip into town with the rangefinders. Burned a roll of agfa 100 in the Bessa I'm anxious to dip in some rodinal.

Darrel, I've been developing for only about 6 months or so now I guess. I'm starting to get the hang of it but there is so much more to learn.

The reason I ask about the specifics of "Continous agitation" is because in my experiences this can be very different between developers. For TMAX it may be 5-7 inversions in 5 secs, while most of the ilford developers say something like 2-4 every 10 secs (can't remember exactly but you get the drift).

 

[Doug]

I think you're wise, Scott, to pose the agitation question. As several others have hinted, there's no need to be vigorous about agitation! The purpose is to move exhausted developer and developer byproducts away from the areas on the film where they've been at work, allowing fresh developer to continue the action. Just a gentle swirl should be adequate.

I used to toss the tank in the air, alternately spinning and flipping it, but that's a good way to get surge streaks from the 35mm sprocket holes. Makes dropping the tank all too possible as well.

Some have even experimented with "stand development" to one degree or another with very minimal/no agitation, allowing exhausted developer to remain in contact with the higher-density areas for "compensating" action.

I have used Rodinal only briefly long ago and do have respect for its character. It's not a fine-grain developer or a speed developer but it's a sharp developer, and many like the attractive tonality it produces.

But the tonality is what puzzles me somewhat about your posted picture... while the brighter areas look very good, the mid-tones look quite flat, not well separated. Cover the four figures with the white t-shirts and see. Not sure if that can be blamed on the scanner... or maybe underexposure?

 

[Rodinal Addict]

I used to develop photos of the eye that an ophthalmologist would take with a Zeiss fundus camera. The doc wanted really sharp photos because he would do laser surgery in areas he could see in the photos. I used Rodinal and he really liked my work. He paid me $15.00 cash per roll, sometimes 5 rolls per week, and this kept me in gas and refreshing beverages in college (25 years ago). I did learn a couple of things in all this:
1) Be consistent with times, dilution, temperature, agitation, tank size. If you need to change anything, change the time. It's easiest to control.
2) Tap the tank a consistent number of times ( once does the job, twice or more if you're obsessive) after every agitation to release any bubbles that can collect between the film in the spiral. Just a gentle tap against the sink or counter is all thats needed.
3) I was also told that if you fill the Rodinal bottle up with glass marbles to evacuate the air each time after you pour some out that it will not oxidize and should keep good for years.
4) Measure Rodinal concentrate with a syringe. It's really accurate, therfore consistent.
Hope it helps.

 

[digitalox]

Yes, thanks again everyone. Just finished a second roll in rodinal earlier tonight. Looks much better, judging by the negs.

 

[doubs43]

Re: first rodinal experience

Rodinal seems to be in these days, and I like a lot of what I've seen from so I though I'd give it a try.

I'd say you've done quite well. Rodinol is, IMO, one of the best out there and except for fast films - 400 & up - I use it for everything. Mostly I dilute it 1:25 and for Ilford FP-4 or Agfa APX-100 I develope for 8 minutes at 68 degrees (20C). I agitate for the first 30 seconds, gently rolling the tank in my hands while slowly tilting it and then bringing it back to almost level. Then I agitate for 5 seconds every minute.

The attached picture was taken with a Kiev-4 & Jupiter-9 lens on FP-4 rated at 125.

Walker Smith

 

[r-brian]

Walker

Try increasing your agitation cycle, that is, try agitating every 2 minutes for the last half of the developing time. The front of the house is starting to blow out. By extending the agitation cycle, you will be applying a compensating effect to the highlights, allowing them to come in line with the shadow area.

Brian

If the "Go TERPS" refer to the University of Maryland, all I can say is Go HOKIES.

 

[doubs43]

Walker

Try increasing your agitation cycle, that is, try agitating every 2 minutes for the last half of the developing time. The front of the house is starting to blow out. By extending the agitation cycle, you will be applying a compensating effect to the highlights, allowing them to come in line with the shadow area.

Brian

If the "Go TERPS" refer to the University of Maryland, all I can say is Go HOKIES.

Brian, thanks for the tip. The picture is from a test roll and the sunlight was very strong on the front of the house. Perhaps 1:50 might have done better but I'm not crazy about the extended times to develope at 1:50.

Oh...... Blacksburg is going to be wearing black Friday after the Terps kick butt tomorrow night! 😀

BTW, I lived in Alamogordo for over 4 years and liked NM.

Walker

 

[Doug]

Brian I'm a bit puzzled... shouldn't more agitation help build density in the dense areas, thus encouraging highlight blowout?

 

[doubs43]

Brian I'm a bit puzzled... shouldn't more agitation help build density in the dense areas, thus encouraging highlight blowout?

Actually, the suggestion IS to decrease agitation. My normal method was 5 seconds each minute and he's saying to only agitate each 2 minutes for the final 4 minutes of developing. At least that's how I take it.

Walker