valdas
Veteran
It would be interesting to see that comparison to 5234. In the meantime I bought a few short ends of 100ft from Germany of this TF12, so we’ll see, but I am analysing the density chart and the contrast is crazy, I’ll have to use some super low contrast developer to get something else than just pure black or white
Forest_rain
Well-known
ISO 8? Forgive my ignorance of this film, doesn't that require a huge amount of light to expose properly?
It looks really good though, huge contrast, black and white, not much grey (I really like that effect).
Can someone explain to me what orthographic film is? Is this film that is just not suited for portraiture, but only natural light (not indoors). IE blue light vs red light...not totally clear on what this means.
I shot a roll of HP5 once and I wasn't too fond of the results. I felt like it was "too grey" and I really like the effect of the photos shown in this thread with high b/w contrast. Perhaps I'm using the wrong film stock? I've heard other people complain about the amount of "grey" in the images on HP5.
It looks really good though, huge contrast, black and white, not much grey (I really like that effect).
Can someone explain to me what orthographic film is? Is this film that is just not suited for portraiture, but only natural light (not indoors). IE blue light vs red light...not totally clear on what this means.
I shot a roll of HP5 once and I wasn't too fond of the results. I felt like it was "too grey" and I really like the effect of the photos shown in this thread with high b/w contrast. Perhaps I'm using the wrong film stock? I've heard other people complain about the amount of "grey" in the images on HP5.
Huss
Veteran
No. To expose correctly, you need to give the correct exposure. No matter what film you use.
To shoot normally i.e. handheld photography, a bright sunny day is very helpful.
Using Sunny F16, ISO 8 film would give you 1/500 sec @f2, stopping down, 1/60 sec @ f5.6.
So it is very useable, you just need to know what to use it for and when to use it.
It is nice to be able to shoot wide open in bright light with no ND filters needed.
Huss
Veteran
Ok, to give you an idea how it renders reds..
Shot on my iPhone:
Shot with Lomo Fantome 8:
Shot on my iPhone:
Shot with Lomo Fantome 8:
Mark C
Well-known
That sure looks ortho. So that also leaves out most of the contenders mentioned here as the source. What is left.
Oh, and thank you for the effort. I know I sort of instigated it.
Oh, and thank you for the effort. I know I sort of instigated it.
Huss
Veteran
Lomo mentions it is a panchromatic film in their blurb. But as I originally mentioned, it shoots like an ortho. Plus has that crystal clear base like an ortho.
Mark C
Well-known
Odd that they would say that if not true. I would think Ortho would be a selling point for them. I'm sure the mystery will sort itself out eventually.
Huss
Veteran
My Eastman 5234 arrived. Just placing it next to the Lomo Fantome you can see they are different films. Lomo on the left is purple, Eastman on the right is grey/black.
Huss
Veteran
Cross post:
Just developed a roll of Eastman 5234 in DF96. It turned the developer green!! Brand new batch too, hope it is not ruined.
Also only got 33 exposures on what was meant to be a 36exp roll!
FYI came out great - 4 minutes @75.
Just developed a roll of Eastman 5234 in DF96. It turned the developer green!! Brand new batch too, hope it is not ruined.
Also only got 33 exposures on what was meant to be a 36exp roll!
FYI came out great - 4 minutes @75.
Huss
Veteran
Kodak Eastman 5234 dries just as curly as Fantome. So it will be a pain to place into film holders to scan.
valdas
Veteran
My Eastman 5234 arrived. Just placing it next to the Lomo Fantome you can see they are different films. Lomo on the left is purple, Eastman on the right is grey/black.
So Kodak was the wrong suspect. I will check the strip of ORWO TF 12 which I received yesterday for “color resemblance”...
valdas
Veteran
Lousy bulk loading. That's what happens when you start at 0 mark and finish at 36. Normally bulk loaders would have a "start" mark which is some 3 frames before 0.
valdas
Veteran
Huss
Veteran
Yep, and the film was very tight the last few exposures. I could hear my camera's motor struggling and the frame spacing became very narrow.
I bought it from UltrafineOnline.
Huss
Veteran
Hmmm, purple it is...
That looks too coincidental!
Mark C
Well-known
The Orwo seems more likely since it is ortho and the Fantome 8 sure looks to be. I read what I could find from Lomography (not much). I think they used the word panchromatic, as a noun, one time in all. They don't really offer a description of what the stuff really is, so I am doubtful of their minimal description which contradicts your results.
I hope someone can do a comparison, but there are so few candidates the Orwo seems like a winner.
I hope someone can do a comparison, but there are so few candidates the Orwo seems like a winner.
valdas
Veteran
At least I’ll see what I get from this ORWO in comparison to what Huss has from Fantome although it will be difficult to compare directly - I don’t use monobath (xtol guy) and I don’t have Californian sun
Huss
Veteran
At least I’ll see what I get from this ORWO in comparison to what Huss has from Fantome although it will be difficult to compare directly - I don’t use monobath (xtol guy) and I don’t have Californian sun
You could buy a roll of Fantome to make that direct comparison.
valdas
Veteran
You could buy a roll of Fantome to make that direct comparison.
Ha, it never crossed my mind!
But maybe, just maybe... BTW - I developed a short strip of this orwo - no edge markings. Another box ticked. OTOH - it is super high contrast, I am not even sure how this could be scanned...Huss
Veteran
Ha, it never crossed my mind!
Fantome also is high contrast. No issues 'scanning' it with my digicam (as I do all my film).