Fixer for TriX: beginner question

[kemal_mumcu]

Hi all. I'm about to take the plunge into developing my first roll of TriX. I just received the tank and chemicals and I was reviewing the process when I noticed I didn't have anything for the fixer. For some reason I thought that I could use some sort of water (household) solution for the fixing part of the process. Now that I've scanned the net again, it seems like I need to get a fixer before I can start developing. 🙁 Maybe I confused the water bath stop step with the fixer step. 🙄

What kind of fixer would you recommend for TriX? (I'm using D-76 for the developer) What would be something easily available over the counter in a less metropolitan area of NA?

Thanks

 

[pesphoto]

Well, there is Kodak fixer in powder form, but I'd recommend liquid as its easier to use. I use Sprint rapid fixer 2 parts fixer to 8 parts water. Ilford makes a liquid fixer as well. Yes, you can use water as your stop bath, been doing that for years.

 

[Matthew Allen]

Choice of fixer isn't critical and doesn't have a significant effect on your results unlike, say, choice of developer. You might as well use whichever one you can get the easiest or cheapest.

Have a look here for useful information on developing and some comments on fixer:

http://rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps how process 35-120.html

(Roger is a regular poster here.)

Matthew

 

[Chuck Albertson]

You can use plain water as a stop bath, though your fixer will likely last longer if you use an acid stop. Try using Kodak's Rapid Fixer (liquid), and leave out the little bottle of hardener when you mix it. Using a hardener means longer wash times.

 

[Todd.Hanz]

if your developing Tri-X you probably should pick up some Hypo Clear to remove the purple haze on the negs, not mandatory but it's good to get it off the negs sooner or later.

Todd

 

[kemal_mumcu]

Thanks for your responses. I'll phone around and see what I can find locally.

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

FYI, I use the Ilford stuff, it's perfectly fine.

 

[drewbarb]

Yep, fix is absolutely mandatory, and as others indicate, you can use any fix on the market. About fix and the use of stop baths and fixer removers (also called, hypo-clear, hypo-check, perma-wash, etc.): If you use an acid fix, I do recommend an acid stop bath (I use dilute distilled white vinegar rather than any commercial product)- this will help your fix last much longer. After fixing and a brief first wash in water, use a fix remover, as Todd recommends, to help clear your films faster and reduce wash times.

If, however, you use an alkaline fix, skip the acid stop and the perma-wash. Using an alkaline fix and omitting acid stop bath means the entire process becomes alkaline. Use just a plain water rinse between the developer and fix steps, and then wash. I've never found a perma-wash to be necessary- or helpful- with these fixers.

In my experience, both types of fix work equally well with most films and developers, with one exception: Diafine is recommended to be used only with alkaline fix. There may be other developers out there which prefer one type or the other, but Diafine is the only one I've found so far.

Aside from film run in Diafine (which I don't use much) I tend mostly to use Heico NH-5 fix (acid) and Heico Perma-Wash, for economy and simplicity- it's easy to get (I'm in the US, and buy big bottles from B&H or Adorama); it's cheap, and lasts a very long time, both as un-used stock solution and at working dilution.

Enjoy your foray into processing your own film- it's a great experience, and loads of fun! Good luck!

 

[kemal_mumcu]

Hi, and thanks to all for your advice. I managed to find some Ilford Rapid Fixer; the only stuff available within a 100 mile radius of my house. This morning I put one roll through the tank and surprise of surprise, it all worked out! It was a really good feeling to see those first negs shine off that roll of TriX.

No more commercial labs. 🙂 For b&w at least.

 

[gb hill]

I have been use to mixing the Kodak powdered fixer & when I went to my supplier they were completely out. So the salesman turned me on to Ilford Rapid Fixer. I think I will like the ilford better as I believe it will be more economical to use. Glad to here your roll turned out good. Next time try some HC-110. from Kodak when using a developer. You can use a syringe and mix out just enough to do a roll of film at a time & last a really long time.

 

[40oz]

Yeah, you can use water for a STOP, but fixer is fixer 🙂 Make sure you use distilled water for your final rinse with photo-flo or whatever. It greatly eliminates spots on the negatives.