ww2photog
Established
Going to try my hand at stand developing. Shooting Rollei ortho 25 and Acros 100. I'm about to order Rodinal (or whatever the modern version is called) 1+100. Water stop bath. What fixer do you recommend.
I've only used Kodak products before, and want to try something different.
I've only used Kodak products before, and want to try something different.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Developer, stop and fixer are not related. Any fixer which is for bw film will works.
I have Kodak fixer in powder and I have Ilford Rapid fixer in liquid concentrate. Doesn't matter if with stop bath or just with water between developer and fixer.
RTMF for mix rate. Do film strip test to determine fixing time.
I have Kodak fixer in powder and I have Ilford Rapid fixer in liquid concentrate. Doesn't matter if with stop bath or just with water between developer and fixer.
RTMF for mix rate. Do film strip test to determine fixing time.
Lauffray
Invisible Cities
I like Ilford's Rapid Fixer, comes liquid so need to mix, just dilute and use (and reuse). Rather speedy fixing compared to Kodak, never tried replenishing it though
ww2photog
Established
Thanks guys
Fotohuis
Well-known
When using a water change (stop) you will need an acid type fixer. When using an acid stop bath from 2% Acetic Acid or 1,5% Citric Acid you can also use an alkaline type fixer.
The brand does not matter. In stand development you will often use a R09/Rodinal 1+150 dilution but you have to take care of the minimum amount of concentrate for the surface area of one 135-36 or (equivalent) 120 roll film. For R09/Rodinal officially 10ml, in practice you can use 5ml-5,5ml for one film. So for a 1+150 dilution you will need a bigger developing tank to fit the overall volume.
The brand does not matter. In stand development you will often use a R09/Rodinal 1+150 dilution but you have to take care of the minimum amount of concentrate for the surface area of one 135-36 or (equivalent) 120 roll film. For R09/Rodinal officially 10ml, in practice you can use 5ml-5,5ml for one film. So for a 1+150 dilution you will need a bigger developing tank to fit the overall volume.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Avoid hardening fixers as they greatly prolong washing time.
The only advantage of alkaline fixers is that they're cheap.
Cheers,
R.
The only advantage of alkaline fixers is that they're cheap.
Cheers,
R.
Lauffray
Invisible Cities
Makes sense, of course. But I hadn't thought of it.
In any case, Ilford Rapid Fixer is a non-hardening slightly acidic fixer (5-5.5 pH), so it works great in this case
Fotohuis
Well-known
In a tray development (papers) you have less Sulfurdioxide (SO2) development with alkaline fixer. So that is a main advantage then.
For regular film development, yes use an acid type rapid fixer.
Fotohuis
Well-known
Rollei Ortho 25 in R.L.C. - Film Low Gamma (U. Raffay) 1+4 8:30 min/20C:
john_s
Well-known
They don't smell strongly of SO2, a consideration for open tray paper processing. I prefer fixers around neutral (like Flexicolor) because they smell only faintly of ammonia which the very alkaline fixers do.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
x-ray
Veteran
Using a water bath as stop you can safely use either acid or alkalin fix. If using an acid stop bath only use an acid fixer. The reason is acid
stop ( acetic acid ) will neutralize an alkaline fix.
As for a hardening fixer, most films are ore hardened but I've found Foma are not. They scratch quite easily and should be used with a hardening fix. To reduce wash times use a hypo clearing bath like Kodak or Hyco. Wash times can be reduced to five to ten minutes.
stop ( acetic acid ) will neutralize an alkaline fix.
As for a hardening fixer, most films are ore hardened but I've found Foma are not. They scratch quite easily and should be used with a hardening fix. To reduce wash times use a hypo clearing bath like Kodak or Hyco. Wash times can be reduced to five to ten minutes.