mike goldberg
The Peaceful Pacific
Hi...
I'm using Ilford Rapid Fix liquid... mixed into a 1+9 working solution.
Can someone tell me how many films I can get out of this, let's say in
a tank that holds 2 films... approximately 450ml?... And, when I'm
fixing films number 5 & 6, for example, do I add fixing time?
Thanks, mike
[having returned to B/W film developing, since 1995]
I'm using Ilford Rapid Fix liquid... mixed into a 1+9 working solution.
Can someone tell me how many films I can get out of this, let's say in
a tank that holds 2 films... approximately 450ml?... And, when I'm
fixing films number 5 & 6, for example, do I add fixing time?
Thanks, mike
[having returned to B/W film developing, since 1995]
erikhaugsby
killer of threads
Fixer life really depends upon how often you use the fix, and over what period of time it is left in the dilute. The best way to check fix is to drop a film leader into the fix and wait to see how long it takes to clear. My rule of thumb is if it takes longer than a minute the fix isn't enough to hang on to and I dispose of it.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I use fixer one shot, and it still goes bad in the unmixed bottle. Who knows.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
I mix my film fixer at 1:4- the test above is a good one, you can also test with paper- fix for 1/2 minute then rinse and drop in developer- if any grey develops then the fix is shot.
I trust my fixer to Edwal Hypo Check- the little bottle is cheap and lasts a long time.
I trust my fixer to Edwal Hypo Check- the little bottle is cheap and lasts a long time.
Max Power
Well-known
I mix at 1+4 and really use fixer hard, for both paper and film and it's only let me down once. Do the leader test, and if ever you fix, and your film comes out pink, you'll know that your fixer is exhausted...Just mix a new batch at working strength, refix and rewash.
Kent
Kent
mpt600
Established
My negs started coming out purple, so very similar to Kent's post above. New fix sorted it.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Don't forget that Delta films and T-Max films need a longer fixing time- the flattened silver is more resistant to clearing I guess. I give trad. films 3 minutes in Sprint fixer 1:4, the new tech films 4 minutes.
John Rountree
Nothing is what I want
The old rule of thumb for testing fixer is: twice the time to clear. That means, you put the leader into the fixer solution and watch the timer. When the film is clear (transparent) note the time for the chemical reaction to occur and double it.
For T-max and Delta films, add another 50% to the doubled time. If the time to clear exceeds two minutes, the fixer is exhausted. If you miscalculate and the film has a pinkish cast, it is under fixed. But, as mentioned before, all you need to do is mix a fresh batch, re-fix and re-wash. No harm, no foul.
BTW, I would reccommend you start mixing your fixer at the 1:4 ratio.
For T-max and Delta films, add another 50% to the doubled time. If the time to clear exceeds two minutes, the fixer is exhausted. If you miscalculate and the film has a pinkish cast, it is under fixed. But, as mentioned before, all you need to do is mix a fresh batch, re-fix and re-wash. No harm, no foul.
BTW, I would reccommend you start mixing your fixer at the 1:4 ratio.
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350D_user
B+W film devotee
So, people wouldn't recomend dropping a lopped-off bit of film leader into unused (mixed, but not used) fixer as soon as you finish pouring the fixer into the tank, then waiting for the leader to clear (thus the film is fixed)?
I know you can't over do the fixer.
I know you can't over do the fixer.
Max Power
Well-known
350D_user said:So, people wouldn't recomend dropping a lopped-off bit of film leader into unused (mixed, but not used) fixer as soon as you finish pouring the fixer into the tank, then waiting for the leader to clear (thus the film is fixed)?
I know you can't over do the fixer.
The simplest way to do it is to run the fixer test whilst you are souping. That way your results are fresh.
Kent