Robert Lai
Well-known
OK, my name is Robert, and I'm hooked on flash bulbs. Yes, flash bulbs.
Why?
Sheer freaking POWER!
It started when I took to hiking in the woods, taking pictures. Unfortunately, with the powerful sun here in Arkansas, there are deeply shaded areas mixed with brighly lit tree tops. So, I then tried my most powerful electronic flash, and it was an improvement. But, it didn't seem to be enough.
Then I discovered the Nikon BC-7.
Takes bayonet base (e.g. #5)
Miniature base (M2, M3).
and all glass (AG-1) bulbs.
Uses a #504 15V battery, which I obtained online.
Plugs directly into the hot shoe of your Nikon F, or F2. These have the contact at the rear of the shoe.
Using an adapter, you can also plug it into your rangefinder Nikon (S3, SP, etc). The rangefinder Nikons have the contact at the front of the shoe.
Adapter AS-2 lets you mount the flash onto any conventional ISO hot shoe.
Adapter AS-3 lets you use this on the F3.
For completion, AS-1 lets you use a regular flash on your F or F2.
AS-4 lets you use ISO foot flash on your F3.
Yes, I've got all these adapters. I told you I was an addict!
Info page on Nikon adapters: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/coupler/index.htm
The BC-7 lets you adjust the beam for 35mm lens coverage, and for 45mm lens coverage (the famous Guide Number Nikkor lens).
Using the AS-2, and a Safe voltage hot shoe adapter (e.g. Wein sync safe, but I use a Vello product that is less than half the price of the Wein), I tested it out using my Fuji GS645's hot shoe, with an M3B bulb.
HOLY FREAKING!!!!!
It's blinding, even at 15 feet away.
I now understand why the old photo books say to take portraits 10-15 feet away, and to use a 90mm or 135mm lens. Your victims don't want to get too close to the flash bulb.
Plus, tell them not to stare at the camera:
1) prevents red eye
2) prevents them from being temporarily blinded for 5 minutes.
I was the subject of my initial tests, not due to vanity, but because I was using my Gossen Luna Pro F in flashmeter mode to see what f/stops I should be using.
There is a difference in guide numbers between the 35mm and 45mm reflector settings.
Guide number was 160 for ISO 160 (Portra 160) at the 45mm setting. Handy, eh?
Guide number 140 for 35mm setting (Portra 160)
Note, this is much lower than the guide number on the box of bulbs, so I'll have to see when the film comes back which is accurate - box or the Gossen Luna Pro F.
Note #2 - the flashmeter is correct.
I also tried not hooking up the reflector at all, to see if it would cover a 28mm lens. Guide number then is 125.
Finally, I had to push it to the limit.
Nikon F with an 18mm lens, and bare bulb (no reflector).
Guide number 100 (f/6.7 at 15 feet, 160 ISO).
For off camera use, there is a handy extension cord that plugs into the BC-7, and the other end has a standard PC socket.
This is the way I use this flash unit now, as I mount it on a flash bracket when i'm not using a Nikon F or F2 camera.
Chapter 2 - Infrared. While I was taking pictures in the woods, I also tried out Rollei IR400 film, rated at EI 25. I used a Cokin A007 filter (equivalent to 89B), and just held it in front of the lens of my Fuji GS645.
I must say that for IR work, rangefinders are ideal. You can't see anything through an SLR with an IR filter on.
Results from the hot Arkansas sunlight was amazing!
White trees! Shadow detailed opened up a lot.
But, I want more.
I want infrared fill in flash!
Electronic flash is useless, as most of the output will be blocked by the IR filter.
Why not flash bulbs? They generate tons of heat, therefore infrared energy.
I used the M3 (clear bulbs) this time around. Not knowing what guide number to use, I just used the number on the box for ISO 10. I figured that at least 1/2 the light has got to be wasted as the visible light portion. The rest should be my IR light.
I tried this out today with my M4-2. The beauty of the Leicas until the M6 is that they give you both an M sync port as well as an X sync port (as well as a hot shoe from M4-2 upwards).
You can actually use both flash units together, simultaneously!!!
Think of the possibilities.
Use the electronic flash for (non-IR) lighting up your subject.
Use the bulb flash to light up the background.
Anyway, I climbed up hill and dale today with my M4-2, the Nikon BC-7 and AS-2 adapter, M3 clear bulbs, and Gitzo tripod at hand.
Lens was 35mm Summicron ASPH with a B+W IR filter installed.
I got tired of slapping that Cokin IR filter in front of the lens all the time.
Rollei IR400 film.
While I was finishing off my Portra 160 roll, I did try some bare bulb photography with a 21mm f/2.8 ZM Biogon, using M3B bulbs.
Spent bulbs were placed in a small cardboard box that I carried with me, until I could find a garbage container to discard them into.
I haven't finished the roll yet, so I don't know if this is a total folly or not.
I notice that the Leica instructions say that you can use up to 1/125 shutter speed with M synch and an M3 bulb. However, since I did my testing at 1/30 shutter speed, I kept to that speed.
Chapter 3 - MORE POWER.
As nice as the Nikon BC-7 flash unit is, it won't take those Mazda base bulbs. The screw base bulbs that look like a 25 W incandescent light bulb.
Bulbs like the Press 40, or even more powerful ones.
So, I just bought a Minicam Synchro Junior LBC. This is a batttery - capacitor unit that can accommodate the Mazda base bulbs as well as the bayonet bulbs. As well, I've got a bunch of #5 and #6 (focal plane) bulbs coming to me, in clear and blue versions. If this unit works, I'll then try those bigger bulbs!!!
I can't afford a Corvette to feed my middle age crisis, but I can get flash bulbs.
Anyone else who uses flash bulbs, please share tips, encouragements, and photos.
Why?
Sheer freaking POWER!
It started when I took to hiking in the woods, taking pictures. Unfortunately, with the powerful sun here in Arkansas, there are deeply shaded areas mixed with brighly lit tree tops. So, I then tried my most powerful electronic flash, and it was an improvement. But, it didn't seem to be enough.
Then I discovered the Nikon BC-7.
Takes bayonet base (e.g. #5)
Miniature base (M2, M3).
and all glass (AG-1) bulbs.
Uses a #504 15V battery, which I obtained online.
Plugs directly into the hot shoe of your Nikon F, or F2. These have the contact at the rear of the shoe.
Using an adapter, you can also plug it into your rangefinder Nikon (S3, SP, etc). The rangefinder Nikons have the contact at the front of the shoe.
Adapter AS-2 lets you mount the flash onto any conventional ISO hot shoe.
Adapter AS-3 lets you use this on the F3.
For completion, AS-1 lets you use a regular flash on your F or F2.
AS-4 lets you use ISO foot flash on your F3.
Yes, I've got all these adapters. I told you I was an addict!
Info page on Nikon adapters: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/coupler/index.htm
The BC-7 lets you adjust the beam for 35mm lens coverage, and for 45mm lens coverage (the famous Guide Number Nikkor lens).
Using the AS-2, and a Safe voltage hot shoe adapter (e.g. Wein sync safe, but I use a Vello product that is less than half the price of the Wein), I tested it out using my Fuji GS645's hot shoe, with an M3B bulb.
HOLY FREAKING!!!!!
It's blinding, even at 15 feet away.
I now understand why the old photo books say to take portraits 10-15 feet away, and to use a 90mm or 135mm lens. Your victims don't want to get too close to the flash bulb.
Plus, tell them not to stare at the camera:
1) prevents red eye
2) prevents them from being temporarily blinded for 5 minutes.
I was the subject of my initial tests, not due to vanity, but because I was using my Gossen Luna Pro F in flashmeter mode to see what f/stops I should be using.
There is a difference in guide numbers between the 35mm and 45mm reflector settings.
Guide number was 160 for ISO 160 (Portra 160) at the 45mm setting. Handy, eh?
Guide number 140 for 35mm setting (Portra 160)
Note, this is much lower than the guide number on the box of bulbs, so I'll have to see when the film comes back which is accurate - box or the Gossen Luna Pro F.
Note #2 - the flashmeter is correct.
I also tried not hooking up the reflector at all, to see if it would cover a 28mm lens. Guide number then is 125.
Finally, I had to push it to the limit.
Nikon F with an 18mm lens, and bare bulb (no reflector).
Guide number 100 (f/6.7 at 15 feet, 160 ISO).
For off camera use, there is a handy extension cord that plugs into the BC-7, and the other end has a standard PC socket.
This is the way I use this flash unit now, as I mount it on a flash bracket when i'm not using a Nikon F or F2 camera.
Chapter 2 - Infrared. While I was taking pictures in the woods, I also tried out Rollei IR400 film, rated at EI 25. I used a Cokin A007 filter (equivalent to 89B), and just held it in front of the lens of my Fuji GS645.
I must say that for IR work, rangefinders are ideal. You can't see anything through an SLR with an IR filter on.
Results from the hot Arkansas sunlight was amazing!
White trees! Shadow detailed opened up a lot.
But, I want more.
I want infrared fill in flash!
Electronic flash is useless, as most of the output will be blocked by the IR filter.
Why not flash bulbs? They generate tons of heat, therefore infrared energy.
I used the M3 (clear bulbs) this time around. Not knowing what guide number to use, I just used the number on the box for ISO 10. I figured that at least 1/2 the light has got to be wasted as the visible light portion. The rest should be my IR light.
I tried this out today with my M4-2. The beauty of the Leicas until the M6 is that they give you both an M sync port as well as an X sync port (as well as a hot shoe from M4-2 upwards).
You can actually use both flash units together, simultaneously!!!
Think of the possibilities.
Use the electronic flash for (non-IR) lighting up your subject.
Use the bulb flash to light up the background.
Anyway, I climbed up hill and dale today with my M4-2, the Nikon BC-7 and AS-2 adapter, M3 clear bulbs, and Gitzo tripod at hand.
Lens was 35mm Summicron ASPH with a B+W IR filter installed.
I got tired of slapping that Cokin IR filter in front of the lens all the time.
Rollei IR400 film.
While I was finishing off my Portra 160 roll, I did try some bare bulb photography with a 21mm f/2.8 ZM Biogon, using M3B bulbs.
Spent bulbs were placed in a small cardboard box that I carried with me, until I could find a garbage container to discard them into.
I haven't finished the roll yet, so I don't know if this is a total folly or not.
I notice that the Leica instructions say that you can use up to 1/125 shutter speed with M synch and an M3 bulb. However, since I did my testing at 1/30 shutter speed, I kept to that speed.
Chapter 3 - MORE POWER.
As nice as the Nikon BC-7 flash unit is, it won't take those Mazda base bulbs. The screw base bulbs that look like a 25 W incandescent light bulb.
Bulbs like the Press 40, or even more powerful ones.
So, I just bought a Minicam Synchro Junior LBC. This is a batttery - capacitor unit that can accommodate the Mazda base bulbs as well as the bayonet bulbs. As well, I've got a bunch of #5 and #6 (focal plane) bulbs coming to me, in clear and blue versions. If this unit works, I'll then try those bigger bulbs!!!
I can't afford a Corvette to feed my middle age crisis, but I can get flash bulbs.
Anyone else who uses flash bulbs, please share tips, encouragements, and photos.
KenR
Well-known
Wow, sounds great. Please post some results. I thought only cavers were still using flash bulbs - for the same reason as you are excited about the bulbs, as they need the power to light up some huge caverns. They best example of sheer flash bulb power is O. Winston Link's book The Last Steam Railroad in America which shows his giant, homemade flash setups.
dmr
Registered Abuser
I have not used flash bulbs since my Brownie Starflash, but I'm intrigued by them. Not enough to try though. 
My dad used to use screw-base bulbs with his Kodak Monitor and Tourist cameras. The ones I remember were kind of the size and shape of an appliance bulb. A prank my brothers learned was to replace the bulb in a table lamp with one of these and wait for an unsuspecting person to turn it on.
One thing I noticed was that these old honker flashbulbs used to scare the cat we had back then. Nowadays with the strobe flashes I have and use when I have to, the cats I have don't seem to care at all. I suspect it was the power and the duration of the flash that made the difference.
My dad used to use screw-base bulbs with his Kodak Monitor and Tourist cameras. The ones I remember were kind of the size and shape of an appliance bulb. A prank my brothers learned was to replace the bulb in a table lamp with one of these and wait for an unsuspecting person to turn it on.
One thing I noticed was that these old honker flashbulbs used to scare the cat we had back then. Nowadays with the strobe flashes I have and use when I have to, the cats I have don't seem to care at all. I suspect it was the power and the duration of the flash that made the difference.
css9450
Veteran
I still have a lot of bulbs, although I haven't used them in a few years. Press 25 bulbs, mostly, but a few of those larger ones too with the screw-in bases. I cleaned out a couple very old camera stores about 25 years ago, and took home whatever they had left. I think I have more bulbs than anyone in the Chicago area!
I don't do portraits. Instead, I do open flash setups with the camera in "B" and three or four bulbs flashed depending on the size of the subject. For a long time, I used an old flash unit with a reflector that opened up like a fan, but when batteries became hard to find I switched to an old Brownie-style flash reflector which used C batteries. I just short the two terminal pins with a coin to make it flash.
The smell of the melted plastic coating on the bulbs is one I'll never forget!
I don't do portraits. Instead, I do open flash setups with the camera in "B" and three or four bulbs flashed depending on the size of the subject. For a long time, I used an old flash unit with a reflector that opened up like a fan, but when batteries became hard to find I switched to an old Brownie-style flash reflector which used C batteries. I just short the two terminal pins with a coin to make it flash.
The smell of the melted plastic coating on the bulbs is one I'll never forget!
Robert Lai
Well-known
Hi Guys,
Well, it is going to be a while before I get done with this roll of IR film. Setting up, and then finally taking the picture takes some time. I was wondering why I just didn't use a 4x5 view camera instead, as it would give me shifts to keep trees vertical.
Hmmmm.....
Well, it is going to be a while before I get done with this roll of IR film. Setting up, and then finally taking the picture takes some time. I was wondering why I just didn't use a 4x5 view camera instead, as it would give me shifts to keep trees vertical.
Hmmmm.....
CMur12
Veteran
I remember as a child, at every family gathering, all of us kids would be lined up by aunts and uncles who would then take our pictures with flash bulbs. We were no 10 - 15 feet away and we had to look at the camera with our eyes open. We always dreaded it. I remember walking away afterwards, seeing a blue dot before me for some time, as my eyes gradually recovered.
I have some flash bulbs around, myself, but I so rarely use flash in any form, that I haven't been moved to use them.
- Murray
I have some flash bulbs around, myself, but I so rarely use flash in any form, that I haven't been moved to use them.
- Murray
nomadia
Established
Cool addiction. Can we see some sample images? Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Robert Lai
Well-known
Sorry, no samples yet. I'm sending off the Portra 160 roll to get developed. Then I need to figure out how to get images on here.
x-ray
Veteran
I've got to say I like that sizzle sound and smell when you fire a flashbulb.
I worked for the department of energy in the mid 70's and like all government agencies we were on the cutting edge of technology. We were still using 4x5 speed graphics and press 25 flashbulbs. I used many cases of them over the year and a half I worked for them.
I used bulbs regularly through the 70's into the 80's. I lit a lot of interiors in industrial settings with bulbs. For interiors I mainly used #3 and 3B's.
When I was at the DOE I did some ultra high speed motion picture work. I shot many assignments at 44,000 frames per second looking at explosive detonations. To give you an idea of how fast this is the shutter speed was 1/100,000 of a second and 400 ft of film would go through the camera in 1/10 of a second. Fast? Yes! I used either #3 or FF33 bulbs. The prows peak of the #3 was plenty long but required precise timing to trigger the bulb. The FF33 put out about the same amount of light but the peak was 1.75 seconds. It was much easier to sync with the event.
I still use a few 5's and 25's. Bulbs in a large polished reflector have a different look than electronic flask and put out a tremendous amount of light for the size and weight.
Something to keep in mind. I learned the hard way to wrap the bulb in a cloth when inserting in the flashgun. They can ignite from static electricity or a malfunction of the flash. When a bulb goes off in your fingers the skin sticks to the bulb and there's an intense pain. It burns! Radar has been known to ignite them at airports. If there are multiple bulbs in contact with each other and one ignites they all will go off.
Older bulbs build up oxides on the lead contact on the base of the bulb. Sometimes they won't fire. With old bulbs it's a good idea to carry a small piece of fine sandpaper and rub the lead tip on the sandpaper to remove it. In the day we would glue a disc of sandpaper on the base of the battery case of our Graflex flash guns.
I worked for the department of energy in the mid 70's and like all government agencies we were on the cutting edge of technology. We were still using 4x5 speed graphics and press 25 flashbulbs. I used many cases of them over the year and a half I worked for them.
I used bulbs regularly through the 70's into the 80's. I lit a lot of interiors in industrial settings with bulbs. For interiors I mainly used #3 and 3B's.
When I was at the DOE I did some ultra high speed motion picture work. I shot many assignments at 44,000 frames per second looking at explosive detonations. To give you an idea of how fast this is the shutter speed was 1/100,000 of a second and 400 ft of film would go through the camera in 1/10 of a second. Fast? Yes! I used either #3 or FF33 bulbs. The prows peak of the #3 was plenty long but required precise timing to trigger the bulb. The FF33 put out about the same amount of light but the peak was 1.75 seconds. It was much easier to sync with the event.
I still use a few 5's and 25's. Bulbs in a large polished reflector have a different look than electronic flask and put out a tremendous amount of light for the size and weight.
Something to keep in mind. I learned the hard way to wrap the bulb in a cloth when inserting in the flashgun. They can ignite from static electricity or a malfunction of the flash. When a bulb goes off in your fingers the skin sticks to the bulb and there's an intense pain. It burns! Radar has been known to ignite them at airports. If there are multiple bulbs in contact with each other and one ignites they all will go off.
Older bulbs build up oxides on the lead contact on the base of the bulb. Sometimes they won't fire. With old bulbs it's a good idea to carry a small piece of fine sandpaper and rub the lead tip on the sandpaper to remove it. In the day we would glue a disc of sandpaper on the base of the battery case of our Graflex flash guns.
Robert Lai
Well-known
Safety First
Safety First
Thanks X-ray about the safety tips. One advantage of the Nikon BC-7 is that it won't start charging the capacitor until you put the bulb in there. It trickle charges through the bulb.
On this other unit I'm getting, there is the option to use 2 C cells, or the battery - capacitor unit. It does have an on/off switch.
I've noted also that with old cameras, once the shutter is fired, the flash synch contacts are STILL CLOSED. The Leica IIIf does this.
You need to wind the shutter to open the circuit again. I noticed this with electronic flash units, that they kept repeatedly firing while winding the IIIf. I don't know about the IIIg and M Leicas, but I hope that they are better in this respect.
At any rate, I have a policy of advancing the shutter first, keeping the flash unit OFF, and only then will I place a bulb. Once the hand is out of the way, then the unit can be turned on.
Trampling around in the woods, I'm grounded. The bulbs are in their cardboard box, which dissipates static electricity. There is a small municipal airport some distance away, but I think I'm OK from their radar. None of my bulbs today went off spontaneously.
I've read online to never carry the bulbs loose in a pocket. They can all ignite spontaneously, causing a severe burn.
Safety First
Thanks X-ray about the safety tips. One advantage of the Nikon BC-7 is that it won't start charging the capacitor until you put the bulb in there. It trickle charges through the bulb.
On this other unit I'm getting, there is the option to use 2 C cells, or the battery - capacitor unit. It does have an on/off switch.
I've noted also that with old cameras, once the shutter is fired, the flash synch contacts are STILL CLOSED. The Leica IIIf does this.
You need to wind the shutter to open the circuit again. I noticed this with electronic flash units, that they kept repeatedly firing while winding the IIIf. I don't know about the IIIg and M Leicas, but I hope that they are better in this respect.
At any rate, I have a policy of advancing the shutter first, keeping the flash unit OFF, and only then will I place a bulb. Once the hand is out of the way, then the unit can be turned on.
Trampling around in the woods, I'm grounded. The bulbs are in their cardboard box, which dissipates static electricity. There is a small municipal airport some distance away, but I think I'm OK from their radar. None of my bulbs today went off spontaneously.
I've read online to never carry the bulbs loose in a pocket. They can all ignite spontaneously, causing a severe burn.
x-ray
Veteran
You have to be pretty close to an active radar antenna. Closer than I wasn't to be.
I've seen many old timers lick the base of the bulb. They thought the saliva improved continuity. In reality they were getting a tiny amount of lead in their system every time they licked the solder.
Ive accidentally fired a bulb while putting it in the gun. I used them with the speed graphic I was issued. I would insert the holder, pull the slide, cock the shutter and insert the bulb in the gun. On these old speeds, the shutter was tripped by a selanoid that was fired by a button on the back top of the flash gun. Wow! That hurts! It only took one time to change the order that I cocked the shutter and put the bulb in. Ouch!!!
I've seen many old timers lick the base of the bulb. They thought the saliva improved continuity. In reality they were getting a tiny amount of lead in their system every time they licked the solder.
Ive accidentally fired a bulb while putting it in the gun. I used them with the speed graphic I was issued. I would insert the holder, pull the slide, cock the shutter and insert the bulb in the gun. On these old speeds, the shutter was tripped by a selanoid that was fired by a button on the back top of the flash gun. Wow! That hurts! It only took one time to change the order that I cocked the shutter and put the bulb in. Ouch!!!
David Murphy
Veteran
I still remember the strange smell of the bulbs after they fired. They were fun (when they worked!).
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Unlikely, though, press photographers of the era generally carried them loose in their pocket, without any known incidents of PJ self immolation. It takes more power to ignite a flash bulb than you'd get out of ambient static electricity (or any radio or radar station you would survive undamaged at that close a distance).
Besides, I have sometimes fired small flash bulbs (and powerful electronic flashes) with the hand (or sleeve, or a handkerchief) over the reflector, without ever getting hurt - anything in the 100Ws or less range apparently does not have enough energy to cause second degree burns or set fabric or paper alight. The cautions might apply to higher energy (big bulb) flashes.
dmr
Registered Abuser
Yes! Same with our family and it's one reason (the main reason, actually) that I seldom use flash today!
**FOOOOOOMF!** {tweet-tweet-tweet-tweet}
I also remember the smell of a recently-fired flash bulb, but mainly from my Brownie Starflash, which used the much smaller bulbs that were not as nasty. Of course I was on the side of the camera where you did not have to look toward the flash!
My one aunt had a Polaroid with a "wink light" which was MUCH better.
froyd
Veteran
Eagerly awaiting sample pics... you might just have given new focus to my GAS
MrFujicaman
Well-known
I have a Navy photographers mate 2 manual and they warn against having flash bulbs in your pocket on the flight deck.
KenR
Well-known
Static electricity
Static electricity
Interesting to find out about static electricity setting them off. There is an old family story that when I was about three, my uncle was putting a flash bulb into a camera with me watching from about a foot away. The bulb went off in my face. Apparently I was rather camera shy for the next couple of years. I guess that's why I am a photographer now - to make up for lost time.
Static electricity
Interesting to find out about static electricity setting them off. There is an old family story that when I was about three, my uncle was putting a flash bulb into a camera with me watching from about a foot away. The bulb went off in my face. Apparently I was rather camera shy for the next couple of years. I guess that's why I am a photographer now - to make up for lost time.
pyeh
Member of good standing
I quite liked the 4-shot flash cube on my Instamatic when I was small.
