Flash for Fuji GW690

[DonFee]

Hello fellow Rangefinders 🙂

I´m starting my first post here with a question.

A year ago I bought a Fuji GW690 which I bring with me on all my travels.
I use Fuji veliva and provia 90% of the shots. My question is that I have been looking for somekind of flash to help me out in low light situations, I dont like to go below 1/60.

Those here that own a Fuji GW690 what to you use?

I have been lookin at this here:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/621286-REG/Digi_Slave_LRU255B_LRU255B_Digi_Slave_L_Ring.html

I never tried ring flashes I just like the way the integrate with the camera and dont make the camera "bigger"

cheers
Don

 

[divewizard]

Any brand flash with an auto mode will work. The LED light ring is not a good choice.
I have used an Olympus FL-40 with adapter, Olympus FL-50R with adapter, and a Rollei 128BC (has cable).

I now use a old Sunpak Auto411 that has the cable built-in. I bought it recently for $10.

Any brand flash is fine. I would look for an old one with and auto mode that can accommodate the X cable, and can be aimed while mounted. If it can accommodate the cable you will not need an adapter.

BTW, the GW690 will sync at any shutter speed including 1/500.

 

[chris00nj]

I use a Metz 36 C-2 . It has 3 auto apertures and comes with a PC cord.

I also don't think the flash ring is good choice.

 

[sevo]

Any flash with PC cord connector will do - IIRC the GW 690 still has a cold shoe, the hot shoe was only added on the II.

That ring LED light is ok for shooting extreme macro (low light power and hence range) with a digital camera (poor colour balance and hence need for white balancing) - for a film camera with 1m minimum focus distance it is utterly and hopelessly useless.

Most ring flashes are low power (GN 10-18 at the very maximum) and only suitable for macro or close-up work. There are very few ring flashes capable of being used for photography at portrait to group distances, and most of them cost thousands and need an external studio flash generator pack - and a safety instruction at the dealer, as these things can easily give you 2nd degree burns if you are careless while firing them.

 

[Mablo]

Vivitar 285HV is the best Auto-mode flash workhorse for the buck. Make sure you get the PC-connector cable (not your PC computer but the camera-flash cable) because Vivitar uses a non-standard flash plug.

 

[Hibbs]

With my Fuji 67 II...I have used a Vivitar 283 and (also) a Canon 420 EX. The Gary Fong diffuser really helped me get outstanding results at a wedding.

 

[Sjixxxy]

Metz 45 ct-4 has been working well for me. Looks huge on the camera, but handles surprisingly well. I carry it strapped to my back everyday.

 

[kzphoto]

I use mine with a Nikon SB-24 and the Leica SF-20. Both flashes work great in Automatic or Manual mode. The SF-20 has a hard time hitting the hot shoe in the top of the camera, so I've taken to using the Nikon SB-24 with an X-sync cable. Much more reliable.

 

[johannielscom]

...

Looks huge on the camera...

...

I think you got that backwards 😛

 

[Sjixxxy]

I think you got that backwards 😛

I believe you are correct. When I see those handle-mount flashes on 35mm gear it looks huge. One the Fuji, it looks just about right.

 

[Wags]

I have a Sunpak too. Paid $50 for it "buy it now" cause I "wanted it now". But they and others are fairly easy to come by cheap these days.

 

[DonFee]

Thanks for the tips! Sjixxxy love your setup, menacing as hell 🙂

 

[pgeobc]

I have been using my Metz 45 CL-4 Digital on my Fuji GF670, with a standard PC cord. There is a hot-shoe module for standard cameras that would work, too. At any rate, I use it with the built-in auto funciton and it works well, I'd say. Works on my Mamiya 7II, also.

 

[drew.saunders]

A Vivitar 285V would work well.

I just got a Metz 44MZ-2 with Leica module for a reasonable price. The module does TTL with my M6TTL, and in "auto" mode it works with my Mamiya 645E and Fuji GA645Zi via the hotshoe, and my large format cameras via PC cord and the "Hot Shoe Universal Translator" (http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,12111.html). The Leica 3502 module doesn't support a PC connector, I'd have to get a generic 301 SCA module, and I didn't want to be swapping modules and exposing their electronics, so I got the converter instead. I can mount the converter on a lightstand too.

Anyway there are lots of good flashes with "auto" mode, any of those will do. Since your maximum aperture isn't very wide, get a reasonably powerful flash.

 

[DonFee]

Just bought the 285HV Flash and the epson V600 scanner.
So hopefully I`ll upload some of my pictures soon 🙂

 

[Sjixxxy]

Thanks for the tips! Sjixxxy love your setup, menacing as hell 🙂

I keep getting asked "Who are you shooting for?" with it.

 

[olleorama]

I haven't looked on that specific ring light but would ring lights in general be pretty pissy on a RF camera considering they almost always shade the RF and VF? That has been my case with leica M6 and mamiya super 23.

And no, most real ringlights won't have lo GNs. Most real ringlights operate from a flash generator and costs a few thousands of dollars (plus the generator...). Nowadays though, a lot of chinese companies produce ****ty substitutes made from inferior components or even worse, are made to get light from a on-camera flash. Maybe besides the point, but ringflash in general and led versions specifically isn't really good for RFs on location.

If you want power while on the go I recommend older style powerpack flashes. Not the strobist popular SLA packs, but HV packs. Some of these older versions go for very little on the bay. I got a multiblitz press universal in mintish condition on the bay for under $40, and it packs a whooping 160ws in four different settings (20, 40, 80 and 160) so far it has been doing everything I want except being small and unobtrusive. There are a lot similar models around if you look around. The metz handleflashes are also extremely well made and has very accurate automodes, most offer a hV pack which I think is an extremely good companion for spontanious shooting. A lot of older (80's) autoflashes (3 of four I own) has a small synch port above the foot, two of them have 3/32"s and one has a 1/8". A bit of soldering and a few inches of wire and you're ready to go.

But hey, these are only my very opiniated opinions, everybody is entitled to their own, I like schlepping around a SLA and powerpack, not everybody does (cos the fuji RF is such a small handy camera in itself)

SJxxy, that's one manly camera!