Flash for RD-1?

[fgianni]

Has anyone used flash with the RD-1?
Which is the best flash to use with it?
Is there a list of compatible flash units?

Thanks

 

[sevres_babylone]

Does anyone know what Epson indicates as the allowable maximum voltage? The following site reports on other manufacturer''s warnings and a list of test results on flash units with respect to their voltage: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

The very compact Olympus T-20 apparently records 5-7.4V when charging, but I don't know whether that would be safe to use without a Wein converter. I did buy the Wein, but it is a tight fit on the shoe.

 

[Jim Watts]

No indication of maximum voltage is noted in the manual but Epson's Web Site says this
" Please note when using flashes that they do not use high voltage, since the flash shoe of the R-D1 is not equipped for it. "

I should think that anything up to about 25 volts (maybe more) should be O.K., but I would not risk a Vivitar 283 (of which I have a few) without a the Wein as they can generate up to 600v on some samples. Mine measure around 250V.

The Metz 34 AF-3 (which I have borrowed and tried) is safe, quite powerful, works well and is a good size match.

 

[jlw]

Hey
Oh my god, the world's going to hell in a handbasket. First a digital RF, and now someone wants to stick a flash on it.

Well, I don't usually stick a flash ON mine, but I do sometimes hook it up to a studio flash power pack; how else would I take pictures like those below?

Anyway, to get back to the what-flash question: I'm sure that what the remark on Epson's website means is that you can't use a flash with a high trigger voltage. Just about any modern battery-powered shoe-mount flash should be safe, I'd think.

The ones for which you'd have to watch would be old-style units powered by high-voltage battery packs (e.g. that old Graflex Strob 250 you've got in the closet) or old AC-powered studio units. Modern studio flash units have low-voltage trigger circuits and should be OK.

No guarantees, and I won't be responsible if you hose your R-D 1's sync circuit by relying on this test, but here's an old-time crude way to check the trigger voltage: Power up the flash, connect the sync cord, then fire the flash by shorting the PC tip with an ordinary lead pencil. If you see a spark, the flash has a high-voltage trigger circuit and should not be used. No spark, you should be safe.

If in any doubt, though, the Wein Safe-Sync is inexpensive (compared to your R-D 1!)

Another potential R-D 1 flash issue is that the camera's sync circuit is polarized -- it will fire if the PC cord's polarity is one way but not the other. (Sorry, I don't remember which way is which.) If your flash unit uses a PC cord with a standard H-type connector at the other end, and it doesn't fire when plugged in one way, just turn over the H connector and try it the other way; it should work. If your PC cord is NOT reversible, and the R-D 1 won't fire it, you may have to cut apart the cord and switch the wires inside.

I believe (but am not sure) that the Wein Safe-Sync also neutralizes the sync circuit's polarity, so this also may be a solution if your flash won't fire with the R-D 1 and you can't find any way to switch the polarity.

Okay, now why you'd want to use a flash with your R-D 1 in the first place: rangefinder cameras are GREAT for flash. Unlike with an SLR, you can see the flashes go off as you watch through the viewfinder. That makes it much easier to shoot pictures like these, which I did shoot with an R-D 1: