analogpics
Well-known
Hey all, i dunno if i'm having an issue with the flash or the CLE, but when i use my sunpak flash, it's really intermittent with firing. I tried it on some other bodies and the flash seems to fire ok (except the hexar af seemed to not always fire too, but on all my other cameras....m7, x100, etc. it was fine). I rubbed an eraser on the contacts and it seemed to help temporarily. Anyone have any prob like this? Thanks!
madNbad
Well-known
PC cord or hot shoe contact?
analogpics
Well-known
Hey Mad, it's hot shoe contact
madNbad
Well-known
If you can, try the flash with a PC cord. Even better try another flash and see if it's a bad contact on the CLE or if it's the flash. Unless there is some wobble in the hot shoe on the CLE my bet is on the flash.
analogpics
Well-known
Well, i had about 4-5 shots left on the roll...still didn't fire after i put some hydrogen peroxide on a qtip and swabbed the contacts. So as soon as i finished the roll and took the film out...it's firing every time now 
madNbad
Well-known
Maybe that's the answer, don't put any film in the camera...
analogpics
Well-known
LOL awww i love this camera too much! Well, i popped the flash on my m7...firing every time on this guy. Maybe there could be a short in the hot shoe electronics in the CLE(?)
madNbad
Well-known
Actually, you may have answered your own question. Many times some unseen corrosion keeps the flash from making full contact with the hot shoe. An inexpensive guarantee is to add an adapter to the kit that adds a PC cord. Glad you have solved the problem.
analogpics
Well-known
Funny thing, i have the identical (though much older/worn down) sunpak flash on the CLE now and it's firing every time. One thing i notice between the two flashes though, the location of the pin is ever so slightly different. Since the old one is a bit worn down the pin pushes a little bit farther so maybe the new one isn't quite reaching the contact completely(?) is that a possibility?
Shafovaloff1
Well-known
Minolta CLE
Minolta CLE
There are three long spring type contacts below the shoe that touch an electronic board under the top of the camera. I suppose there could be a corrosion problem which could cause intermittent problems, particularly, since the flash electronics uses low power to control the flash instead of sending high voltage through the camera itself. [A danger inherent in using non-compatible units.] I have a photograph of the shoe contacts on the underside [see ebay for a gander as I have posted some for sale but you do not have to buy the photo to view them] but can't figure out how to post on the site. There may be a way to test the continuity when actually setting off the shutter without taking off the camera top to check for corrosion - a relatively simple process compared to some other camera's I have worked on.
Thomas E. Shafovaloff
Minolta CLE
There are three long spring type contacts below the shoe that touch an electronic board under the top of the camera. I suppose there could be a corrosion problem which could cause intermittent problems, particularly, since the flash electronics uses low power to control the flash instead of sending high voltage through the camera itself. [A danger inherent in using non-compatible units.] I have a photograph of the shoe contacts on the underside [see ebay for a gander as I have posted some for sale but you do not have to buy the photo to view them] but can't figure out how to post on the site. There may be a way to test the continuity when actually setting off the shutter without taking off the camera top to check for corrosion - a relatively simple process compared to some other camera's I have worked on.
Thomas E. Shafovaloff
analogpics
Well-known
Thanks for that Thomas! I've been using the CLE with the older sunpak over the past days and *knock on wood* it's been firing every time. I may shave off a bit off the new sunpak's hot shoe to see if that remedies the issue, but in the meantime, i'm going to keep shooting with my old sunpak flash
kiss-o-matic
Well-known
I have a similar problem with the CLE and the Sunpak. In A-mode, it seems to fire every time. When I set the shutter speed to 1/60 manually, it doesn't fire at all. Also worth noting is I don't get any type of exposure over/under LEDs lighting up. Is that normal? I've only shot in A-mode w/ this camera, as I only use it for specific events.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I've had this with other cameras, and also with my Safe Synch. I have to be sure that the flash or the Safe Synch is ALL THE WAY into the slot. The pins seem to be close to the edge and lose contact easily.
Shafovaloff1
Well-known
LED's operate after using flash test button.
LED's operate after using flash test button.
Had a problem with the LED's on my CLE not operating but the shutter operating fine in Automatic. When placing my finger on the shutter release the LED's would move move down from 1/60 or so to the bottom underexposure setting. Tonight I attached an old flash to the shoe , discharged the shutter release and then test fired it [the flash] using the button on the flash. Almost instantly I noticed that the LED's began operating again. I removed the flash and they are still operating properly. Wonder if there was some oxidation or corrosion causing resistance that the bright light sensed by the meter may have overcome. Anyway, one thing to try if you have one of these with the same problem.
Now I need a sharp lens as I only have a Canon 28 f2.8 wide angle for this camera. I have notice on ebay that a lot of these lenses have separation at the last two elements. Looks to me like the thickness of the glue may affect the sharpness of these lenses. The fit must have been more difficult to obtain with older technology...which begs the question for me whether repair of the separation at the two rear elements might result in a sharper image outcome if the glue is removed or a different improved adhesive is used??? Maybe some lens jock can answer this question...
LED's operate after using flash test button.
Had a problem with the LED's on my CLE not operating but the shutter operating fine in Automatic. When placing my finger on the shutter release the LED's would move move down from 1/60 or so to the bottom underexposure setting. Tonight I attached an old flash to the shoe , discharged the shutter release and then test fired it [the flash] using the button on the flash. Almost instantly I noticed that the LED's began operating again. I removed the flash and they are still operating properly. Wonder if there was some oxidation or corrosion causing resistance that the bright light sensed by the meter may have overcome. Anyway, one thing to try if you have one of these with the same problem.
Now I need a sharp lens as I only have a Canon 28 f2.8 wide angle for this camera. I have notice on ebay that a lot of these lenses have separation at the last two elements. Looks to me like the thickness of the glue may affect the sharpness of these lenses. The fit must have been more difficult to obtain with older technology...which begs the question for me whether repair of the separation at the two rear elements might result in a sharper image outcome if the glue is removed or a different improved adhesive is used??? Maybe some lens jock can answer this question...
Huss
Veteran
In manual mode the CLE's shutter functions but the meter and leds are turned off. A design feature.