Flash with Leica R4

dave lackey

dave lackey

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The R4 will be ready to go with a 50mm Summicron F2 this weekend. Got a gig that may require using a flash with my Ilford 100 film.

Dumb Flash Question #1....I am sure I will have more later.:rolleyes:

Please tell me if this will work and what settings for the R4 body and the flash unit:

Flash: Nikon SB24

Flash Zoom: 50mm

Flash ISO set: 100

Automatic? Or TTL setting?

R4 Body Setting: Program?

R4 Shutter Speed: X?

Many thanks in advance!
 
I'd set the flash in Auto and the camera in Program. Let the little gizmos figure things out on their own.

Do you have time to do a dry-run? That is, can you burn a roll and develop it to see the results? I'm not familiar with the SB-24, but I'm sure it's a bit like the SB-25 (which was less complex than the SB-26).

Do you happen to have something like the Vivitar 2800 or 283?

Take care and best of luck!
 
What kind of photos are you taking? I don't have any Leica R series cameras and I know nothing about them. But with a mixed flash and camera (Leica R and Nikon flash) you should, as above, go with either auto or manual (unless for some incomprehensible reason Leica Rs work (TTL) with Nikon flashes).

If you are shooting indoors with an ISO100 film set the flash on auto at the F-stop on the flash and then set the aperture on the camera at the same; but adjust the shutter speed as close as you can to ambient light (of course, limited by the maxium shutter speed on your Leica for flash).

But if, you are outdoors again with ISO100 film and there is plenty of sunlight increase the the camera f-stop 1-1.5-2.0 stops, so the number of the f-stop is larger(on the camera) and then you will be shooting with fill flash.

If you are going to use manual you will have to check the GN (guide number and do the calculation in your head). This is hard with no experience (believe me) so only do it if you have a slow posing situation. And you do it the same as above but you will be more accurate.
 
Thanks, guys...right now, I cannot get the little flash ready triangle to light up in the VF. The only info I can find is use of a Metz flash with a special adaptor.

Hate to shoot a roll, process it and find out the flash is not in sync.....<sings the song, "Worry">
 
SolaresLarrave said:
I'd set the flash in Auto and the camera in Program. Let the little gizmos figure things out on their own.

Do you have time to do a dry-run? That is, can you burn a roll and develop it to see the results? I'm not familiar with the SB-24, but I'm sure it's a bit like the SB-25 (which was less complex than the SB-26).

Do you happen to have something like the Vivitar 2800 or 283?

Take care and best of luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks, Francisco...

The shoot is cancelled due to rain. Which is a good thing as I am still trying to get the cash for a lens.:eek: Not to mention a dry run with the flash.
 
IIRC the R4 has no TTL, that was one of the new features in the R5. The extra contact does nothing but display the flash ready state and switch the camera to X speed when the flash is ready and the camera is on A(uto) mode.

YMMV as to whether you want to use that. That type of "auto flash" common on cameras from around 1980 only works as intended if you stop down the camera so that the auto speed is slower than X (or you'll overexpose whenever the flash kicks in), and you have to set the same aperture on flash and lens (so that dynamic tracking of the light situation is impossible). Well-balanced fill flash is hard to do that way, as you have no control of exposure time. Personally I always felt that manual time and aperture setting caused much less problems than basic computer flash integration of that type - you really need TTL or aperture transfer between camera and flash to make decent fill flash on auto-flash-auto-camera systems work.
 
Just a thought Dave, be carefull using a 283 if you end up with one. They have different trigger voltages and with the, shall we say, alleged delicate electrics in the R4 series you may end up frying it!
My original 283 Japan version is a high voltage one. I would always test the trigger voltage of any flash before using it on an electronic camera just to be on the safe side.
 
sevo said:
IIRC the R4 has no TTL, that was one of the new features in the R5. The extra contact does nothing but display the flash ready state and switch the camera to X speed when the flash is ready and the camera is on A(uto) mode.

YMMV as to whether you want to use that. That type of "auto flash" common on cameras from around 1980 only works as intended if you stop down the camera so that the auto speed is slower than X (or you'll overexpose whenever the flash kicks in), and you have to set the same aperture on flash and lens (so that dynamic tracking of the light situation is impossible). Well-balanced fill flash is hard to do that way, as you have no control of exposure time. Personally I always felt that manual time and aperture setting caused much less problems than basic computer flash integration of that type - you really need TTL or aperture transfer between camera and flash to make decent fill flash on auto-flash-auto-camera systems work.
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Ah...yes, there is where the extra contact comes in...the flash ready triangle. So, if I were to use manual, can you walk me through the settings?:) I guess my biggest concern is that the flash ready triangle does not light up...so I don't know if it is synced or not.
 
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nobbylon said:
Just a thought Dave, be carefull using a 283 if you end up with one. They have different trigger voltages and with the, shall we say, alleged delicate electrics in the R4 series you may end up frying it!
My original 283 Japan version is a high voltage one. I would always test the trigger voltage of any flash before using it on an electronic camera just to be on the safe side.
Click to expand...

Good point about the 283, I read something the other day about how high the voltage is!:eek:

No worries, I sold my 283 years ago.

I would get the Metz flash with adaptor at KEH for $80 if I had the cash but it is going to be difficult just getting the cash for a lens.:eek:
 
I know you probably know already but get the 50 f2 first and then look for a 35 summicron. Getting pricey now though! I have an Elmarit 35 as well as the summicron 35 and it's a superb lens and cheaper. Late version E55.
 
nobbylon said:
I know you probably know already but get the 50 f2 first and then look for a 35 summicron. Getting pricey now though! I have an Elmarit 35 as well as the summicron 35 and it's a superb lens and cheaper. Late version E55.
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Sounds good...there is a 50mm Summicron F2 here in town available for $300... seems like a good price.
 
Okay, today is the day to pick up the lens, if it is a good as I hope it is.

Got an email from Leica regarding the flash and supposedly, it is good to go for the Nikon SB24. Got a roll of Ilford 100 ready for the R4's first exercise in awhile. Will try out the flash and see how she does.:)

Dang, this is a nice camera body.:angel:
 
Hey Dave. I see you are setting up a serious R system (thumb up)!
I have a spare motor winder R4 that I am not using so if you are interested in one drop me a line or PM ;)
I hate to have equipment I'll never going to use but we can take this off tread.
Regards,
b.
 
The only really good way to do all of this is with a flash meter. If you spend an hour or so with one you can get a real feel for both fill and full flash.

I messed with my M6 for a few rolls "trying" to hit the correct combo for fill and i was never quite right.

I have 2 flash meters and you are welcome to try one out.
 
taskoni said:
Hey Dave. I see you are setting up a serious R system (thumb up)!
I have a spare motor winder R4 that I am not using so if you are interested in one drop me a line or PM ;)
I hate to have equipment I'll never going to use but we can take this off tread.
Regards,
b.
Click to expand...


Hi, Bobby...heading off to a meeting to discuss a photo documentary project with a local mayor. After that, more appointments and picking up the kids. Should be able to get back online in 12 hours or so.

But, yeah, PM me and let me know what you have and we can certainly discuss it!!! Thanks so much!:):):)
 
atlcruiser said:
The only really good way to do all of this is with a flash meter. If you spend an hour or so with one you can get a real feel for both fill and full flash.

I messed with my M6 for a few rolls "trying" to hit the correct combo for fill and i was never quite right.

I have 2 flash meters and you are welcome to try one out.
Click to expand...

Hi, David,

The Flash experiment is not going well. Hooked it up and set it up the best way I could and the shutter stayed open after the flash! Only closed when I turned the flash off...:mad: I am thinking I may have to get the Metz with an adaptor at KEH to get a flash to work. Maybe you can help me figure this out next Saturday at Manuels.:confused:
 
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