looks like it will need service. What's the overall condition of the camera and lenses? RF patch strong and contrasty, clean and clear viewfinder, shutter curtains in good shape, speeds accurate, wind-on smooth? What's the cosmetic condition? is it a black dial or chrome dial? are the lenses black or chrome?
Huss
Veteran
So they handed you a broken camera after taking your money.
Sorry to hear that. Not sure why you cannot get a refund.
Timotao
Member
the viewfinder is strong and contrast is great, the camera is beautiful. I know shutter speeds and the shutter speeds sound great. I can't believe how good the RF patch looks for its age it just doesn't move.
Its a silver version. everything about this camera looks amazing expect the RF patch not moving.
This camera was in a pilots bag, get this i shot the film that was in the bag already, film expired in 1973 and the photos came out amazing
based on the film coming out I figured the bag was in someones closet for 40 years
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You'll just need to make the call on whether service is worth the money or not, if you can't return it. Or maybe you can get them to do a partial refund if you really want to keep it. Good luck whichever way you go!
I'd recommend Pro Camera for service if you go that route: procamera.us.
I'd recommend Pro Camera for service if you go that route: procamera.us.
farlymac
PF McFarland
Plus some extra fogging from being on an airplane.
One other thing you can check is inside the lens box you will see a small wheel in the top. This rides on a flange (back edge of the helical) that extends from the lens mount, and as you turn the focus wheel back and forth, the wheel should follow the flange. If it doesn't, then maybe the problem is simply a stuck mechanism that can be caused by died up lubricants. That of course would require a tear down to get to, or something like a slight nudge to break it free. Don't mess with it if you don't feel competent enough, but if you do please do not force it. If the nudge won't move it then it's best left to an expert to sort out.
PF
Timotao
Member
can you get to it from here? are you talking about the box for the rf patch?
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Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
It is that little wheel at the top of the film chamber in front of the shutter. It should move freely back and forth a couple millimeters. You can look through the viewfinder and move that wheel to see if the rangefinder patch moves. Since you have the focusing helicoid assembly off, you must ensure that the helicoid is at infinity AND the focusing wheel is locked at infinity. Now that you have it apart, you won't be able to return it though.
Good luck!
Phil Forrest
Good luck!
Phil Forrest
Mudman
Well-known
That's a bold move cotton. My local repairman would have fixed it properly for about $115 plus shipping. Now that you've taken it apart, double that if you muck it up.
Timotao
Member
I made sure the helicoid is at infinity AND the focusing wheel is locked at infinity while taking it apart. I'm not touching the shutter. or removing the top plate.
I was following this tutorial
https://richardhaw.com/2017/03/04/repair-nikon-s2-front-overhaul/
The wheel above the shutter does move a couple of millimeters but the RF patch is still not moving. I wanted to clean the inside as much as possible, I don't think it needs much cleaning. this camera is clean.
the quote I looked at from someone else link was 400$ If someone can fix it for around 100$ I can do that if they would take payments. lol
I used to work in a cell phone repair shop, cell phones are far easier but have fixed a couple of cameras in the past.
I was following this tutorial
https://richardhaw.com/2017/03/04/repair-nikon-s2-front-overhaul/
The wheel above the shutter does move a couple of millimeters but the RF patch is still not moving. I wanted to clean the inside as much as possible, I don't think it needs much cleaning. this camera is clean.
the quote I looked at from someone else link was 400$ If someone can fix it for around 100$ I can do that if they would take payments. lol
I used to work in a cell phone repair shop, cell phones are far easier but have fixed a couple of cameras in the past.
contact procamera.us. any legit repair shop will need to see it to give you a quote on just the focusing, unless they quote for a total CLA in which case they will work on every aspect of the camera whether it needs work or not.
Highway 61
Revisited
Flush the rangefinder pulley arm shaft with lighter fluid (pointed by the yellow arrow), be generous with the lighter fluid, from there it won't go on any optical surface and it will dry out without leaving any residue anyway. The rangefinder pulley arm must not only "move a couple of millimeters" but a least for 1 centimeter and it must be snappy, with a very strong detent.
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Timotao
Member
I sent them a message! thanks you!
Timotao
Member
Oh the knob!?
That knob doesn't move at all the bigger one next to it moves forward and backward
retinax
Well-known
Is it moved easily or is it sticky? When you move that, does the overlaid image in the rangefinder patch move? The rangefinder patch is not supposed to move when no lens is attached and you focus with the wheel - disregard if that isn't what you meant. But seems to me that we haven't established with any certainty that something is not working, the terminology is confusing...
Highway 61
Revisited
Not the "knob" but the rangefinder pulley arm shaft spindle. I don't know how to spell it better. That shaft must be clean, free, with no sticky grime around it.
The "bigger" one (which is the rangefinder pulley) must move forward and backward yes but it must be spring loaded, that is, if you gently push it backwards towards the shutter curtains, it must then move forwards by itself and instantly when you remove your finger off it.
If you do this while looking through the viewfinder, the mobile part of the rangefinder patch must then move left to right and right to left.
Is the small rangefinder window (front of the camera) really clean ? A greasy, dried out for months, fingerprint on the window would be enough to make you think that the rangefinder patch is not moving.
With a Nikon rangefinder camera, the rangefinder patch will move in the viewfinder when no lens is attached and you focus with the wheel, because the focusing helicoid, which will make the rangefinder pulley move backwards and forwards, is built in the camera body (unless when it's temporarily removed from the camera for service, as it is the case for now with Timotao's S2).
Timotao
Member
i understand! it's pretty clean but doesn't move at all. What i don't understand is how it worked six months ago and hasn't been touched and now it stopped working
Congrats! Great find.
Buy Robert Rotoloni's Complete Nikon Rangefinder book - totally awesome indispensable resource
You will also find a few Nikon Rangefinder articles here
https://cameraquest.com/classics.htm
Best,
Stephen
farlymac
PF McFarland
Well, you haven't had it in your possession those six months, so who knows what has happened to it. It could even have been knocked off the shelf it was sitting on.
It was unnecessary to tear it down to check the rangefinder following wheel. I do understand you'd rather not have to pay a repair person to fix it, but the main thing was to see if the rangefinder was just temporarily stuck. From there it would have been a question of "Does this need to be repaired?", and if it did then you should have returned it for a refund. The S2 is not a camera to use for a first ever DIY repair, unless you have some experience in complicated restorations. If something is broken, you also don't have the parts to fix it.
By taking it apart you've absolved the seller from any responsibility for the condition it was in, so now it's either dive on in to the deep end to attempt the job yourself, or send it off to a repair shop for expert assistance, or bite the bullet and buy a replacement body, selling the first one for parts to recoup at least some of what you possibly will lose on your investment.
If you can't get it back in working order, then at least you have the two lenses, so you'll only need to get another body. But I do wish you good luck sorting out the rangefinder. You can find a copy of the repair manual here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-S-S2...025989?hash=item48e0ac2f45:g:DC4AAOSwh-Jd~t70
PF
Highway 61
Revisited
@ Timotao
That camera is not a diamond ring and at this point it sounds reasonable to go on with the service you've begun to perform. You were smart enough to remove the front plate and the focusing helical without damaging anything. I see that you put the screws that hold the focusing helical back onto the camera chassis not to mess with the shims which are underneath those screws, so my guess is that you have the skills to go on and fix your problem.
Could be that debris of some sort is locking the swinging optical unit of the rangefinder, or that something is blocking the light within the rangefinder path. In my opinion your camera isn't broken. I have several Nikon RF bodies, some were in shoulder bags which were unintentionally dropped from my body height and they got the bumps. Worse case, their rangefinders were in need of vertical adjustment afterwards, but nothing got broken ever. A more severe shock would have left some very visible marks on the camera cosmetics and the lens optics would have been blown away too! The Nikon rangefinder cameras are robust machines.
I am thinking of the flash sync. yellow wire you will discover under the top plate being desoldered at one end and now laying in the rangefinder optical path. This is common, happened to me once. Could be something else but this is very probably a begining fix.
So, now you need to remove the top plate. This is not difficult if you are very patient and very careful with 1) the flash sync. post, and 2) the A/R knob, not to damage them while taking them off.
Here you go (you can go on looking at Richard Haw's sketches, of course) :
https://www.nicovandijk.net/nikonS2repair.htm
Once the top plate removed, you will check that nothing is masking the rangefinder optical path and that you can see the rangefinder unit mobile parts move when you gently actuate the rangefinder pulley back and forth with your finger.
Caution : NEVER EVER touch the three set screws that hold the rangefinder prism located behind the small window of the front plate, NEVER EVER remove that part or you will never be able to reassemble it properly.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
That camera is not a diamond ring and at this point it sounds reasonable to go on with the service you've begun to perform. You were smart enough to remove the front plate and the focusing helical without damaging anything. I see that you put the screws that hold the focusing helical back onto the camera chassis not to mess with the shims which are underneath those screws, so my guess is that you have the skills to go on and fix your problem.
Could be that debris of some sort is locking the swinging optical unit of the rangefinder, or that something is blocking the light within the rangefinder path. In my opinion your camera isn't broken. I have several Nikon RF bodies, some were in shoulder bags which were unintentionally dropped from my body height and they got the bumps. Worse case, their rangefinders were in need of vertical adjustment afterwards, but nothing got broken ever. A more severe shock would have left some very visible marks on the camera cosmetics and the lens optics would have been blown away too! The Nikon rangefinder cameras are robust machines.
I am thinking of the flash sync. yellow wire you will discover under the top plate being desoldered at one end and now laying in the rangefinder optical path. This is common, happened to me once. Could be something else but this is very probably a begining fix.
So, now you need to remove the top plate. This is not difficult if you are very patient and very careful with 1) the flash sync. post, and 2) the A/R knob, not to damage them while taking them off.
Here you go (you can go on looking at Richard Haw's sketches, of course) :
https://www.nicovandijk.net/nikonS2repair.htm
Once the top plate removed, you will check that nothing is masking the rangefinder optical path and that you can see the rangefinder unit mobile parts move when you gently actuate the rangefinder pulley back and forth with your finger.
Caution : NEVER EVER touch the three set screws that hold the rangefinder prism located behind the small window of the front plate, NEVER EVER remove that part or you will never be able to reassemble it properly.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Ambro51
Collector/Photographer
If all else works, not having a rangefinder is not the end of the world. The Rollei 35 and the Leica 1A have no rangefinder and they do fine. With high speed film and F11 or F16 your DOF is so great and zone focus estimate will be fine.