Folder friendly film.

[fidget]

Running film through a few of my folders, I get irritated at how poor the markings and frame numbers are on FP4+ 120 rolls.
The marking on Neopan are excellent and fairly easy to see through the little red window.
I've been considering replacing the darkest red windows with something else....but what?
How do you see the frame number on yours, are you too armed with torch and magnifying glass?

Dave...

 

[Gumby]

Kodak numbering is easier to read than Ilford numbering. But still, I find it helpful to turn the ruby window toward the sun while winding.

 

[Walt G]

The red windows do tend to vary in readability from one camera to another, though Ilford film is the hardest to read.
Fuji film I find much easier.

 

[pschauss]

The markings on Shanghai GP3 are even harder to read. I have no problem with Kodak, Neopan, or Foma (Arista Edu Ultra).

 

[petronius]

Forte films are hard to read, Neopan Acros is great, old Agfa slide films are good too. Holding the window to the sun helps for me, for reading the windows on my selfmade pinholecams I used a Maglite Mini sometimes.

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

I'll second Foma films being easy to read through the red window.

 

[fidget]

It probably doesn't help that I need reading glasses for this kind of detail.
Maybe an illuminated loupe?
Somewhere, I've got one of those credit card sized magnifying glasses with integrated illumination. It was poor for maps, as I remember, but might be ok for this.

 

[fidget]

I am right in thinking that the window being red is of no benefit these days?

 

[Solinar]

The red window is an issue on my Bessa II and Record III. I have only two bricks of APX 100 left, which is very red window friendly, as is Tri-X.

 

[Walt G]

I am right in thinking that the window being red is of no benefit these days?

I've seen some windows that are more orange than red. Faded maybe?

Anyway, I feel safer when the window has a sliding door of some kind.

 

[mbisc]

I use a lot of both TMax and E100VS, and both are easy to see in the red window of my Bessa II

 

[thirteen]

Fuji is best - and you don't have to lick the tab when you've shot the roll!

 

[pschauss]

On my Mockba 2, if I don't close the cover over the red window, I get a darker spot on the negative there. I don't recall exactly what film I was using but, most likely, it was either APX100, Tri-X, or Foma (200 or 400).

 

[fidget]

On the darkest of the windows (Ensigns are a good example) I actually have illuminate the window in the brightest outdoor light in order to see the frame number. I now carry a small torch for this. Some cameras can show problems of light ingress through the window, not through the film backing but around the pressure plate. My Moskva and Bessa RF are prone to this. With the inventive use of a little foam, this can be stopped.

Maybe I'll look for some other material to cover the window on those with sliding doors (and stay away from FP4+ once my stock is run down).

Dave

 

[Solinar]

On medium format cameras without a sliding door that covers the red window, you will need use black gaffers tape to cover the opening.

Back in the days of Kodak Verichrome Ortho it wasn't necessary to do this, but panchromatic B/W or color film are a different kettle of fish. Both are sensitive to the red part of the visible spectrum.

For you folks in the UK, you may want to try Fuji Acros 100 and Kodak Tri-X just for the readability of the frame numbers even though Harmon Ilford may be the local favorite.

 

[antonandreas]

On the two cameras I have with the red window and no kind of flap or door, I have not had any problem with a light leak. It is interesting to hear that some people have had a problem with these types of cameras as I had always thought the paper backing in addition to the red window was enough protection.

To answer the original post, out of Kodak, Ilford and Fuji, I find Kodak films the easiest to read, even in very dimly lit situations.

 

[relistan]

generally the backing cant be penetrated by the light/sun but who knows there may be a problem with some cheap brand over another [i havnt tried them all].

The only film I have ever had do this is older Ilford. It wasn't cheap, either. Their poor backing is the reason they made their numbers so hard to read on the newer films. Look closely in this shot and you can see the number 9 (really upside down 6) to the left of the tower up in the sky.

Foma film is really easy to read in the red window and doesn't display this poor characteristic. All Kodak films that I have tried have also been easy to read and don't do this. Newer Ilford films don't bleed through like this, but they are much harder to read in the window, too, as mentioned.

Cheers,
Karl

 

[fidget]

I've snagged a nice Ikonta 521, it's only the second Ikon/Ikonta I've had (sold the first on years ago). The red window is very light and the film backing is also close to the window, which helps. Even my FP4+ can be seen quite clearly.


It's a nice camera.
It's just under a desk lamp at the moment having the first few frames given over to a test to check for light leaks, through the back, next frame though the front, next frame through the bellows etc....when it's finished toasting, and if it stops raining I hope to get out and run the remainder of the film on varied shots this weekend.

Dave..

 

[FallisPhoto]

Running film through a few of my folders, I get irritated at how poor the markings and frame numbers are on FP4+ 120 rolls.
The marking on Neopan are excellent and fairly easy to see through the little red window.
I've been considering replacing the darkest red windows with something else....but what?
How do you see the frame number on yours, are you too armed with torch and magnifying glass?

Dave...

If you're going to replace the red window, go to an office supply store and get the red tabs they use to put on hanging file folders. They are big enough and red enough that they do the job, but they are easy to see the numbers through.