Foldex 20 scratching the film

My polishing cloths arrived safe and sound. I however have not had time to dedicate to this task. I received several new cameras and spent time with them and my normal life happened and thus I've not completed this fix/repair.

I did find my Dremel kit with the polishing wheels and polishing paste so that is an option possibly if the polishing cloths don't do the trick.

One thing I am not sure of is what to paint or cover the newly exposed and polished metal with so it does not reflect light back? Any ideas on that?
 
I give up.

I've spent two different days between today and the last time I posted trying to fix the rough spot with no luck.

I used the polishing cloths one at a time, gritty to smooth, working the rough spots. Still scratches and rubs the emulsion side of the film. Only now it's less gouges and more rubbing. I used them three times, ran some test film I had through, same result, flipped the film and retried after polishing for another 20 or so minutes, same result.

I even tried my Dremel and polishing wheels and the stuff that polishes with it. And I also tried wrapping some of the polishing cloth around the Dremel polishing wheel.

The spot feels smooth, I can see how smooth it looks but the rough spots are still quite visible down into the metal.

I have one roll of my junk B/W I can run through it to see how badly it damages the film but I can tell already it's going to be just as bad.

About the only option left is to figure out how to remove the frame itself and grind/hammer it down so it does not touch the film at all somehow. Or to paint or seal it with something smooth that won't scratch or effect the film.

I like the camera. But it was under $20 USD and it was not worth all of this. I could have purchased another for the money. Heck I could have 2 other cameras for the money I've spent trying to fix it.

So I'm done. It will be a display camera that works but jacks up the film if I use it. I can still use it for paper photos if I wish however. So that's an option.

It won this battle.
 
Sorry things didn't work out as you wanted them to. At least you have learned something about repair.

Hope you get another one that gives you the results you want.
 
Thanks. I will keep my eye out for another. I figure this one's in great shape minus the scratching. So maybe I can find one for $5-10 that has a broken shutter or lens or the bellows leaks and can just use it's internal frame instead.

Part of me wants to take apart the bellows/frame part of the camera and see if it's possible for me to bend or grind down the frame area some.

But for now, the camera has become a paperweight. I do plan on playing with some photo paper in it though. No scratching can happen there since the paper will just lay in the camera.
 
Looking at pictures of Foldexes (Foldi?) online, I see that many (but not all) DO actually have releif in the edges of the frame nearest the rollers , so that the image area of the film would not make contact there. I don't know if the un-relieved examples such as yours are the result of a manufacturing oversight, or just a poor initial design (one perhaps corrected in later models). But I think your idea to somehow relieve the ends yourself is probably the most practical solution to the scratching problem.
 
It could also be someone's repair that did not get the frame positioned correctly and it was not setting low enough below the rollers.

I will have a look at it this week and see if I can figure out how to take that part apart and move the frame. If I can get the frame out without damaging the camera it will allow me to see what kind of space I have to move it, trim it, bend it, grind it etc.

I also considered buying some good quality thin low-lint felt that was adhesive backed and literally cutting out a mask for the frame and sticking it to it.
 
I have polished several old cameras inner parts due to the same issue.
It must be absolutely flat, like uneven, but flat like glass.
I use nothing but Dremel polishing kit with red polishing paste from Home Depot.
If it is difficult to remove this frame, where yellow arrows are, last thing I would try before looking for another one is epoxy glue to fill in all uneven micro spots.
But before of doing this, I'll just mask this spot with black electrical tape and run film through it. If it is this bare metal spot it will make visible difference with the tape.
 
I hadn't considered using some black electrical tape. I always have avoided the stuff because it leaves sticky goop everywhere.

I was afraid to use glue or epoxy as I have a bad habit of getting it everywhere.

So much work for a cheap camera. But I am determined to make it work right. :D
 
I use "Goof Off" liquid to clean cameras parts. Like shutters shafts. Acetone based solution.
This will take care of black tape removed sticky spots.
Here is small epoxy kit at hardware store. Gives one drop of each part , I use beer bottle cap to mix and paper clip wire to apply.
 
I wouldn't use electrical tape because of its somewhat grippy surface. Scotch tape will probably provide a much better surface for film to slide over.
 
I'll have to try one or both of these maybe this weekend.

Not sure how to do the epoxy thing however. Would you fill those micro gaps with it, then grind and polish it down smooth?
 
alienmeatsack said:
It could also be someone's repair that did not get the frame positioned correctly and it was not setting low enough below the rollers.
Click to expand...

That occured to me too. Sometimes one person's repair or solution to a problem ends up having unintended consequences. Maybe someone added spacers to compensate for a focus error.

Who knows what people do with their, um ...Foldices :D
 
alienmeatsack said:
I'll have to try one or both of these maybe this weekend.

Not sure how to do the epoxy thing however. Would you fill those micro gaps with it, then grind and polish it down smooth?
Click to expand...

Just take your time. Try it on something similar to see how it works.
Apply as little as possible. Just to cover very small part.
You don't have to do it all at once.
Use another clean paper clip, make it L shape to get epoxy flat. Make few of them.
You could sandpaper and polish epoxy, but make sure to have all other part protected from the dust.
The trick is to apply it while it is liquid, at this case it is going to be flat naturally.
 
Also try thoroughly cleaning the rollers that the film passes over. I have a Foldex 30 and suffered with similar lines until I got those really good and clean.

Another helpful hint is that these seem to be happier with 620 size spools instead of 120; the latter can build up pressure inside and refuse to roll smoothly and bind up. I just use a pair of small scissors to trim the outsides of the spool flanges so they're more 620 size.

Good luck!
One of my shots with it:

The Pyramid by Terry Christian Photo, on Flickr
 
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