ww2photog
Established
Giving Foma Classic 200 a try for the first time. Was looking for real world results and recommendations. I'm running some through my Rolleiflex and my little Super Ikonta A.
Only developer I now have is Rodenal, looking for dev. Times and what you actually rate this film speed as.
Only developer I now have is Rodenal, looking for dev. Times and what you actually rate this film speed as.
tho60
Well-known
See some tips and problems:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151204
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151204
Highway 61
Revisited
Expose it at ISO 125 and don't process this film in Rodinal.
lynnb
Veteran
I've had good results at box speed in XTOL 1:1. Dev time as per Massive Dev Chart.
Foma 200 120 6x9 in XTOL (Bessa II):
and another:
Foma 200 120 6x9 in XTOL (Bessa II):
and another:
lynnb
Veteran
Here's 35mm Foma 200 in XTOL (all these above and here are rated at box speed).
Taken with Summar 5cm f2
Taken with Summar 5cm f2
DominikDUK
Well-known
Rate the film at 160 to 200 and use Rodinal if it is the only developer you have. The best developer for that film is Xtol imo.
The problem with answering your question is that we don't know what look you want the derating the film to say E.I. 125 might give you better shadow details but maybe you don't want that and you prefer a somewhat harder contrast and grain if that's the case Fomapan 200 at ISO 200 and Rodinal 1:25 (5mins 20°C) is a good choice. If on the other hand you prefer finer grain and loads of shadow detail rating the film at ISO 160 and developing the film in Xtol might be a better choice.
Since you use the 120 Version of this film grain isn't that much of a problem furthermore since the lens of the Ikonta is single coated a bit more contrast might just be what the doctor ordered so if you ask me using the film at E.I 200 and developing it for 9 mins in Rodinal 1+50 (20°C) will give you good results.
The problem with answering your question is that we don't know what look you want the derating the film to say E.I. 125 might give you better shadow details but maybe you don't want that and you prefer a somewhat harder contrast and grain if that's the case Fomapan 200 at ISO 200 and Rodinal 1:25 (5mins 20°C) is a good choice. If on the other hand you prefer finer grain and loads of shadow detail rating the film at ISO 160 and developing the film in Xtol might be a better choice.
Since you use the 120 Version of this film grain isn't that much of a problem furthermore since the lens of the Ikonta is single coated a bit more contrast might just be what the doctor ordered so if you ask me using the film at E.I 200 and developing it for 9 mins in Rodinal 1+50 (20°C) will give you good results.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
True ISO in most developers is identical to FP4 Plus. Grainier; lovely tonality; handles over-exposure very well. I got some beautiful negs from a camera with a sticky shutter which (though I didn't know it at the time) was overexposing everything 1 stop. I'd go as low as EI 100 or even 80 if I were you.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
miha
Established
Rodinal might not be the best developer for this particular film. For me it works best developed in TMAX developer, rated at EI 100. I have also pushed it in 120, f/2.8, 1/15s to 1/30s in average interior lighting at night (no meter). Great results in TMAX.
Fotohuis
Well-known
Just a few FP200 examples:
35mm:
Z-4K + J-8. FP200 E.I. 160 in Xtol 1+1.
M.F. 6x7cm roll film E.I. 160 in Xtol 1+1.
35mm in R09/Rodinal:
Grain is visible and the film speed is lower but still just acceptable in quality. In general R09/Rodinal is not really suitable for high speed films.
35mm:
Z-4K + J-8. FP200 E.I. 160 in Xtol 1+1.
M.F. 6x7cm roll film E.I. 160 in Xtol 1+1.
35mm in R09/Rodinal:
Grain is visible and the film speed is lower but still just acceptable in quality. In general R09/Rodinal is not really suitable for high speed films.
Nokton48
Veteran
Fomapan 200 120 rated at EI 100 and developed in straight Microdol-X Plaubel Makina III
Makina3 #2 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Makina3 #2 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Fotohuis
Well-known
Grainless in W665 E.I. 100 or 80, an ultra fine grain type developer (Hans Windisch later sold under Perutz W665).
Nokton48
Veteran
Nokton48
Veteran
Nokton48
Veteran
Foma 200 at EI 100 Microdol-X Plaubel Makiflex 360mm Tele-Arton
Makiflex Test #8 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Makiflex Test #8 by Nokton48, on Flickrww2photog
Established
Man some great stuff here, thanks for recommendations and examples. Looks like some xytol might be in my future. I don't mind some grain, I like darker, rich shadow and vintage vibe.mone HBC less Ansel if that makes sense.
aoresteen
Well-known
Try EI 100 6 minutes in HC-110B at 20 degrees C. Negs will pop.
Get a 1 liter bottle of HC-110 from Freestyle $30 (B&H will not ship it).
Get a 1 liter bottle of HC-110 from Freestyle $30 (B&H will not ship it).