Foma Pan ??

[znapper]

Also, the 120 size curls horridly and takes WEEKS of sitting under a stack of heavy books to flatten enough for printing.

I've only had that issue with some older rolls of foma, the later rolls never curled much at all.

 

[Muggins]

I've never found a curl problem with Foma (Efke... now that was a different matter!) - I suspect they've changed the film base over the years. I do recall at one point that 35mm was on a colourless base whereas 120 had a blue tint, but now they are both colourless, and I've yet to see holes in the emulsion - although I believe it's still made in the old factory, I think QC has come on a lot in the last few years.

Mind you, I'm not after specific results like Chris, I'm just enjoying using old cameras, so you takes yer choice when it comes to my advice.

Adrian

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I've only had that issue with some older rolls of foma, the later rolls never curled much at all.

I haven't bought any since 2012. Was your good stuff made after that? If so it might be worth trying again.

 

[Fuchs]

I am regularly using FomaPan 400 in 120 and FomaPan 100 in 4x5. I develop in HC110. FomaPan 400 in 120 is very similar to Agfa APX400, with a little bit less grain. In 4x5, @ISO80 renders beautiful tonalities and has plenty resolution, even if not at TMax levels.
Edit: I have had some issues with emulsions holes in fomaPan 400, but only in 35mm

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

I ordered some Fomapan 400 35mm cause it was cheap, about $35 Aus for a 5 pack.
i will be using it with my kiev 4a 🙂
is the film fine ?

 

[Mr_Flibble]

I regularly use Fomapan 100, in 135, 120 and 4x5. I like it.
I give it a little more light when developing in Rodinal.

1+50 Ro9 One-shot

 

[Rayt]

I regularly shoot the Arista branded Fomapan 100 in 120 and 4x5. This is really good film but QC can be spotty. I like it souped in Rodinal 1:50

 

[charjohncarter]

I've used both 100 & 400, to me they are more blue sensitive than I'm used to. I shoot them at half speed and develop in HC-110h, but I used Arista Liquid developer 1+9 and in worked well. When ever there is a blue sky I use an orange or red filter to avoid dead sky. I do like it for overcast, rainy, and indoors.

Arista EDU ultra 100 (Fomapan 100) with red filter, Arista Liquid developer, Mamiya Super 23 (6x9):

AristaEDUultra100 AristaLiquidDeveloper by carter3john, on Flickr

 

[Fotohuis]

I shoot Fomapan 100/200/400 in all formats:

FP400: A lack of speed, in most developers iso 200-250. The Red sensitivity is already mentioned.

In 2012 Foma changed the Blue Polyester base to Clear Polyester Agfa Gevaert base for their 120 roll films and a more effective seperate A.H. layer instead of the Blue painted base. They also added the self adhesive sticker like Fuji. Also the FP200 emulsion was changed due to an ingredient which was not available anymore. The film lost another 1/3F stop in sensitivity but the special character of the Silver halide crystals, a mix of hexagonal and cubical type crystals stays.

FP200 has the softest emulsion, it can damage easily. With cameras with high traction even the emulsion can break which gives small Black lines in the negative. However my favorite Foma film.

FP100 is a very classical cubical type emulsion. Beautiful in R09/Rodinal 1+50 E.I. 80. Like Agfa APX-100.

Just some pics:

FP400 120 roll film E.I. 250 in Rollei Supergrain 1+9.

FP200 (35mm) E.I. 125 in R09/Rodinal.

FP200 under the electronic microscope.

FP200 E.I. 160 in Xtol 1+1; grainless in 120 roll film.

FP200 E.I. 100 in Windisch W665 1+0 (Ultra Fine Grain type developer); grainless in 35mm. 9:45 minutes at 20C. This developer is containing Ortho- Phenylene Diamine. Measured back on the Grey card, 0,72 logD with the densitometer.

 

[Bingley]

Fomapan 200 in HC 110, dil h, 7 mins. @ 20C:

Window shoppng by bingley0522, on Flickr

 

[rwintle]

Well, I've shot two (2) rolls in total.

1) Fomapan 200 in 35mm - I liked this, seemed less contrasty than the Arista Premium 400 (=Tri-X) I'm used to. Likes rolling up but doesn't have that awful lengthwise "bow" that Tri-X does. No residual dye to speak of. Flattened out beautifully for scanning. Overall I liked the grain and tonality. I stand developed it in Adonal (link to FilmDev and more photos in the description of the one below).


Jazz by Richard Wintle, on Flickr

Verdict: I'd buy it again, may be my go-to film once the Arista Premium 400 goes away forever.


2) Fomapan 100 in 120. Shot in a very old Voigtländer Brillant with a not-very-contrasty lens. Results hampered by uneven development (my fault). Was actually grainier than I'd expected, again probably due to poor dev by me. Like the 35mm 200, no obvious lengthwise bowing, flattens nicely for scanning but man does it like to roll back up! No residual dye (lots of green comes out after pre-wash and dev though!). Stand dev in Adonal again.

Example (again - obvious uneven development left to right). FilmDev link in the description as before.


Bow River pedestrian bridge, Banff, Canada by Richard Wintle, on Flickr


Verdict: might try again but first I need to get a better handle on my 120 development.


Hope that is (slightly?) helpful.

Richard.

 

[sjgslack]

I've been using it a lot lately and really like the tones (even if it is a little grainy). Also it dries perfectly flat which is great for scanning 🙂

This is Fomapan 400 in HC110 B for 7 minutes:
Untitled by Silas Slack, on Flickr

And so is this:
Untitled by Silas Slack, on Flickr

 

[JSturr]

What great participation -- thanks to all who offered info !

 

[rjbuzzclick]

I'm standardizing on (AristaEDU branded) Fomapan 100 and 400 in 35mm, 120, and 4x5, developed in Rodinal. I seem to have some occasional pinhole issues in 4x5, but not in smaller formats. I'm still trying to track down a solution. It may be related to the 1+25 dilution, but I'm not sure.

These first two are Fomapan 400 in 120 shot @800 and developed in Rodinal (don't have notes with me on dilution):

...and Fomapan 100 in 120 shot @50 in (probably) Rodinal:

All of the above were shot in a Koni-Omega Rapid M.

 

[Fotohuis]

Have you rotary processed your film in the HC-110? How were your developing time/temps working out? I ask because I just bought a JOBO set of tanks (multitank 2, Multitank 5&6) and want to use these on my old Unicolor Uniroller. Thanks! -Dan

http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Ontwikkeltijden.pdf

For rotary development you have to choose a suitable developer for it and dilute more. e.g. Xtol 1+2.
Cut the developing times by 10%-15% then.
Note: The times for FP200 are for the older emulsion, before 2012 when it was changed. The speed went down approx. for another 1/3F stop.

Rollei Supergrain is 95% compatible for the Amaloco AM74 times. It has been made by SPUR for Rollei-Maco for replacement and it contains much less Hydroquinone. (On the Black EU list of chemicals). In a 1+19 dilution also suitable for rotary development.
http://www.amaloco.nl/pdf/am74_nl.pdf

Fomadon Excel W27 is also 100% Xtol compatible in developing times. The same is valid for ID11/D76 and Fomadon P W37.

http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Foma_film_developers_en.pdf

 

[Fotohuis]

Sometimes people are searching for data of Foma developers used for non-Foma films. Here a published data sheet from 7-2006 from the Foma factory in Hradec Kralové, Czech Republic:

http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Developers%20FOMA%20-%20%20foreign%20films%207-2006.pdf

 

[Fotohuis]

Fomapan 200 used in war zone:

R09/Rodinal 1+50. Cosina Voigtländer Bessa III 667. Daughter Veronika in Ukraine.

 

[teddy]

I find Fomapan 100 has the nicest blacks compared to other films. I like it, and I've bought some Fomapan 200 - cant wait to try out. I like Foma in Rodinal and D-76. I really like it Stand Developed in Rodinal 1:100.

Fomapan 100, Summicron 90/2

Fomapan 100, Summicron 50/2 DR

Fomapan 100, OM Zuiko 35/2.8

 

[Joao]

...and what about pre-soaking ?

...and what about pre-soaking ?

Another matter that raises questions is the practice of pre-soaking Foma films .
Pre-soaking seems harmless and removes the blue discoloration from the developer, but does it has any real (visible) advantage ? I'm talking about the final result with Foma films, not about theoretical considerations (softening the emulsion, etc etc..)
Any reality-based experiences or results with Fomapan ?
Greetings
Joao

 

[rjbuzzclick]

Another matter that raises questions is the practice of pre-soaking Foma films .
Pre-soaking seems harmless and removes the blue discoloration from the developer, but does it has any real (visible) advantage ? I'm talking about the final result with Foma films, not about theoretical considerations (softening the emulsion, etc etc..)
Any reality-based experiences or results with Fomapan ?
Greetings
Joao

I recently shot four 4x5 sheets of Fomapan 100 (AristaEDU) @50, of the same subject at the same exposure. Two were developed with Rodinal 1+25 in a rotary print drum, one with a pre-soak, and one without a presoak. Both of these had pinholes in the emulsion. I did not notice any other differences between the sheets in regards to the pre-soak. I developed the other two sheets together without a pre-soak at 1+50 and neither sheet has pinholes. The 1+50 sheets were a little underdeveloped however, so I suspect my times are a little short for that dilution.

I only use water as a stop bath with film, so the pinholes are not caused by that.