Fountain pens - anyone write?

RdEoSg said:
I was at another shop yesterday that sells all sorts of pens. Montblanc Cartier, Dupont and others. I think those may all be beyond my price range at the moment. It is never a good idea to go in a store that has pens behind 1inch thick glass in walls with nifty lights on them. You can be assured the $25 pen is not behind glass 😛
Click to expand...
That's the nice thing about pen fairs when they're held at places like this: you usually have carte blanche to scribble with FPs you likely would not sell off a good portion of your Leica kit to possess.

At the last pen fair here (at Fountain Pen Hospital in lower Manhattan – a swell place to ogle at any time), I got to fool around with a few examples from Krone and Michel Perchin, plus one example each from Yard-O-Led and Graf von Faber-Castell. The least-expensive of these hovered around $1500; the priciest (two of the Perchins) was about $4500.

The biggest thng I took away from playing with these pens was that, once you get past, say, the $200-300 mark, it's mostly about pomp and filigree, chiseled sterling silver or abalone with lacquer overcoat, or – worse still – the braided/carved Coat of Arms bit. The business end of these writing exotica generally didn't write a lick better than anything I currently own, and in a few instances didn't write as well. Furthermore, all that encrustment often made these pens heavy and ponderous in the hand, even without posting the cap.

The pen I liked writing with most at the fair? An unassuming Parker 100. Right size, right weight/balance/heft, smooth, controlled ink flow. And enough money saved over the other choices to buy a couple of Moleskines, plenty of film, and get lost in a different town (or country) for a month or so.

Given the choice, I know what I'd do. 🙂


- Barrett
 
Last edited:
Moleskine.. Now you know why I want a fountain pen!

I was going to ask what can be put in a pen to make it worth $20,000!!! Apparently it was the rubies. I swear for $20,000 it better make $100 bills all on it's own!

I just wish I could find some sort of nib that I could adapt to fit in one of my pens. I love turning my own. Every one of them original, but if the ink won't flow, what good are they!
 
RdEoSg said:
I was going to ask what can be put in a pen to make it worth $20,000!!! Apparently it was the rubies. I swear for $20,000 it better make $100 bills all on it's own!
Click to expand...
It reminds me a movie review, years ago, of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, where the critic (I think it was NPR's Bob Mondello), in reference to the old Hollywood moguls' bragging about how expensive a given flick was to make, and that you "could see every dollar on the screen", comments that this movie gave him the distinct experience "of sitting in a darkened theatre, watching money."

That's what wrting with a Michel Perchin sort of felt like to me.

Now, for something completely different:

http://tinyurl.com/24f76k

This is a rather dangerous review, because it's about a pen made by a little-known but really interesting outfit. This pen is the exact same pen that they make in some pretty exotic (and pricey) finishes, but which was also made available, by request, totally unadorned – in the raw Ebonite, in fact – for relative chump-change. Read it at your peril. 😉

(Edit: you can blame Ray G for this DaniTrio stuff...he brought it up first.) 🙂


- Barrett
 
Last edited:
So in the event that I did happen to find a vintage pen somewhere that I liked and wanted to buy, I have no idea how to repair them but realize that in all likely hood a pen that has been sitting for decades probably needs repairs! I have seen several mention the fountain pen hospital. Does anyone know how much a typical repair costs for something? I don't see a point in spending $50 for a cool looking pen only to discover it is $200 to repair it! Unless it's some valuable pen but otherwise yea...
 
As with used cameas, "it depends."

My "priciest" pen (in terms of its original selling price), the Persona, was purchased as a demo from a stationer's shop that was going out of business. Wrote beautifully from day one. It's likely that is was scacely broken in. The 99, which I got off the 'Bay, also was a great writer from the start, although i have no idea how much use it's had in its 40+ years, although the pen's cosmetic condition hints that it wasn't in heavy rotation, or at least not carelessly tossed about. Most decent pens on the used market, if they've been handled much at all, have likely not been abused, but, just as with anything else, ask about a return policy.

Besides the nib and feed, the big deal for me would be where the ink goes, and how: sac-based filling systems have the biggest potential for hidden problems. Piston-fill systems, for the most part, are less of a problem, and what problems might exist in a given pen of this type are easier to spot. They are also easier to clean and maintain, which is why buying a used pen with a PF system, IMO, is a safer bet. (Piston-fill pens generally tend to hold more ink than any other type, save for that DaniTrio eyedropper job.)

What I mentioned before about nib tweaking usually has much more to do with having the nib tailored to your writing style than fixing something that's fundamentally broken. This was certainly the case with my friend with the "51", which he practically goes nowhere without.

Finding a pen that fits you at least reasonably well can be an amazing thing, almost disappearing in your hand like a good camera.


- Barrett
 
Last edited:
RdEoSg, some vintage pens (Esterbrooks, for instance) are quite easy to work on. Most will need a new ink sac, which is easily done at home if you're at all handy. Some pens aren't so easy or require special tools (I have a Parker Vacumatic that needs a new diaphragm; I'm certain I could do it myself, but the tool required for disassembly costs more than sending it off to be fixed by a professional like Richard Binder; same story with a Sheaffer Vac-fill I have). I fixed a Sheaffer Snorkel, which can try one's patience, but is doable. Don't discount your own abilities. Heck, if you can do minor camera repairs, you can repair some fountain pens, too.

BTW, if that Eversharp you have is a Skyline and it's truly trashed and you're going to toss it, I might be able to use some parts from it, depending on model and what's busted.
 
I have no idea what the Eversharp is. I will take a photo to show you, but honestly I don't think I would part with it simply because I believe it belonged to my great grandfather so it has sentimental value. I'll take a photo anyways so you can see. Maybe you can tell me just what it is.

Barrett, I think I may be on the hunt. Damn you people!! 😛 We have lots of antique shops around here, I think I will take a look in them and see what is around. I checked out ebay but it seems to me like anything that looked halfway decent was already being bid on by lots of other people. Much like cameras I doubt you can get an amazing deal unless you know exactly what you are looking for and get lucky. That one you showed me yesterday, the Lamy 99 is a really cool looking pen but is already going up past my price range since yesterday.

It sure looked nice though. I will have to remember that one and keep looking.

Edit: As far as repairs are concerned, I am pretty mechanical and can usually work things out, I just don't have the first clue about fountain pens. I barely understand how they work, but if I find something I am sure you fine people can give me some pointers like leave the hammer on the wall when working on pens...

I tried to figure out how to get the nib out of the Eversharp but no luck yet.
 
Chris, a lot of nibs require being knocked out of the section. Generally, this is done using something called a nib block and a metal rod, but I've used a hole drilled in a piece of wood and a dowel. But you need to get the section out first. Go to www.richardspens.com and read through some of his reference articles. It will give you a good idea of what's going on inside various types of pens, and offers some advice on repair. Richard is also highly thought of as a repairman.

Besides antique shops, don't neglect to look in thrift shops and used furniture stores, etc. I found a Pelikan 120 for a quarter at a thrift shop (needed the nib to be straightened; I managed a bit of it, and it writes, but needs more work to be right) and a Waterman CF at a used furniture store for two bucks. I've also found nice pens at flea markets. I've heard of good scores from yard sales. Just keep your eyes open.
 
I will have to keep my eyes open. I guess unlike cameras, people don't usually see a fountain pen and think gold mine!


No sir. You can not retire by selling your Argus C3.. Yes I realize you have the flash for it..
 
I have three fountain pens (a no-name I found at Target, of all places, a Lamy Safari, and a Waterman Phineas) and two glass dip pens. Love 'em all.
 
I don't know, I'm skeptical about how much success you'll find as a beginner in antique shops. Pens in antique shops _tend_ to be in rough shape.

Here's one of your local stores. I've been there a few years ago, and I was able to find some things that I wanted. You might wanna give it a try..

LA Fountain Pen Shop
2640 South Myrtle, Unit 12
Monrovia, CA 91016-8204
Tel: (626) 294-9974
 
RdEoSg said:
I will have to keep my eyes open. I guess unlike cameras, people don't usually see a fountain pen and think gold mine!


No sir. You can not retire by selling your Argus C3.. Yes I realize you have the flash for it..
Click to expand...

I think with either, it can go both ways. There will be those that see an old pen or an old camera as just that, something technology has passed by and not understand why anyone would want to use it. Then there are those that think any lousy piece of junk is rare and desireable and price it accordingly, and get offended if they're told the truth.
 
Thanks for the info Matt.

Isn't that the truth about people getting offended 😛 The funny part is they get the most upset when we tell them we don't want them at all. I could see if they thought it was worth one thing and we said something lower, but clearly we are not trying to take advantage when we say no!
 
I received an ACME Roller Ball for my 40th BDay last week. It is of Frank Loyd Wright's "Brick" design.

FLWBrick.jpg


Writes beautifully and is a work of art in itself. Until I had received this, I had never heard of ACME Studio (LINK) other than the Road Runner/Coyote reference of course. From the articles linked on their site it would seem that they are getting quite the name in fine writing instruments.

I had been lusting after a Mont Blanc, but got the chance to go into a Mont Blanc store and actually pick them up. They are pretty, they write well I suppose and undoubtedly are finely crafted, but I like a very heavy pen and their heaviest Mont Blanc was still lighter than my Schaefer ball point. (The price was heavy though!)
🙂
The ACME Roller Ball pens are $62 US. At that price, I'm not even nervous in using it daily.
 
Last edited:
GoodPhotos said:
Mic culpa. I loved my Gibson fretless "Ripper" that I stupidly sold when I needed cash many years ago but I now play an Alvarez RB30SC electric/acoustic bass. (Have a nice Alvarez all mahogany PF2005 commemorative regular guitar with a custom rosewood pickgaurd and K&K internal pickups as well.)

While I do have an inexpensive Sheaffer Fountain pen I must be doing something wrongly with it, because I get covered in ink whenever I've tried to use it. Maybe my writing style is too heavy for the medium nib? I prefer my simple but elegant Shaeffer ballpoint when signing important papers and cheap Xeno 1.0 from Staples otherwise.

I desperately wanted to be the mysterious man in the cafe scribbling arcane thoughts while 'on the road' in his Moleskine with the classic Pelikan, Leica by his side, sipping espresso, but found that I prefer a pocket sized (been a customer since 1987) and my Palm T|X for archiving/organising my life.

I also wear a scottish kilts awesome stuff of kilts
https://scottishkiltshop.com/modern-kilts-for-men
Click to expand...
 
ahsansial said:
While I do have an inexpensive Sheaffer Fountain pen I must be doing something wrongly with it, because I get covered in ink whenever I've tried to use it. Maybe my writing style is too heavy for the medium nib? I prefer my simple but elegant Shaeffer ballpoint when signing important papers and cheap Xeno 1.0 from Staples otherwise.

I desperately wanted to be the mysterious man in the cafe scribbling arcane thoughts while 'on the road' in his Moleskine with the classic Pelikan, Leica by his side, sipping espresso, but found that I prefer a pocket sized (been a customer since 1987) and my Palm T|X for archiving/organising my life.
Click to expand...

Definitely doing something wrong. I use a number of different fountain pens daily (mostly my Pilot Metropolitan M and TWSBI Classic EF) and never get a drop of ink on me. Check that your paper is absorbing the ink. Current moleskins are terrible for fountain pen use, the paper doesn't absorb the ink nicely.
 
GoodPhotos said:
Mic culpa. I loved my Gibson fretless "Ripper" that I stupidly sold when I needed cash many years ago but I now play an Alvarez RB30SC electric/acoustic bass. (Have a nice Alvarez all mahogany PF2005 commemorative regular guitar with a custom rosewood pickgaurd and

While I do have an inexpensive Sheaffer Fountain pen I must be doing something wrongly with it, because I get covered in ink whenever I've tried to use it. Maybe my writing style is too heavy for the medium nib? I prefer my simple but elegant Shaeffer ballpoint when signing important papers and cheap Xeno 1.0 from Staples otherwise.

I desperately wanted to be the mysterious man in the cafe scribbling arcane thoughts while 'on the road' in his Moleskine with the classic Pelikan, Leica by his side, sipping espresso, but found that I prefer a pocket sized
You should try Utilikilt and Scottish Kilts men boht are big kilt brand
source links about kilt https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilt
https://scottishkiltshop.com/modern-kilts-for-men
and Utilikilts.com
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom