davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
I started this so it could be a new thread on this film only. I shoot FP4+ only, normally at iso 50, and develop only in D76.
How many ways are there to shoot and process this great film?
How many ways are there to shoot and process this great film?

Roger Hicks
Veteran
Roughly, an infinite number. Shoot at EIs from 25 to 500; use a spot meter, an incident meter, or a broad-area reflected meter. Use any one of probably 50 developers (modifiable to maybe 500) and process at anything from 18 to 24 degrees C, 65-7F for anything from 2 minutes to 2 hours (or more).
FujiLove
Well-known
Roughly, an infinite number.
You beat me to it
Great film. Reminds me I must use it more. My Xpan is calling to the unopened bulk roll that's been sat in the fridge for 12 months.
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
Ok, not how MANY ways, but your personal way to get what you like. If someone tells, and shows, how he gets super fine grain with super wide tonal range, we could stop there, but someone else may like to see something more dramatic.
Roughly, an infinite number. Shoot at EIs from 25 to 500; use a spot meter, an incident meter, or a broad-area reflected meter. Use any one of probably 50 developers (modifiable to maybe 500) and process at anything from 18 to 24 degrees C, 65-7F for anything from 2 minutes to 2 hours (or more).
Nokton48
Veteran

Connels Sign Makina IIIR 100mm F4 by Nokton48, on Flickr
FP4+ in Plaubel Makina IIIR, 100mm F4.2 Plaubel Anticomar (the sharp Plaubel lens!) Freestyle Legacy Mic-X straight developer, replenished. ISO about 50, 1/50 @ F16 in key day bright sun. This developer, if replenished frequently (and not allowed to oxidize due to lack of use) will last for YEARS. My last gallon lasted FIVE years and it gets better as it "seasons".
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Why shot it on ISO50 if it is not discount film?
Since it is slow film and do it in Rodinal.
scan
print
Since it is slow film and do it in Rodinal.
scan


giganova
Well-known
The only film I use if FP-4 ... for 35 years now! ... developed in DD-X. Love it!
Nokton48
Veteran
Easy to get "soot and whitewash". Want to see copious detail in higher values. To each his own.
julio1fer
Well-known
At box speed, in home-made Beutler.

KenR
Well-known
I've had a lot of problems with excessive contrast with this film. Tamed a bit with dilute HC-110 - While the Massive Developing Chart says 7-9 minutes for dilution B (1:31), I've been using 1:74 dilution for 7 minutes. Even with this I've often have to print with a Grade 1 filter.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I've had a lot of problems with excessive contrast with this film. Tamed a bit with dilute HC-110 - While the Massive Developing Chart says 7-9 minutes for dilution B (1:31), I've been using 1:74 dilution for 7 minutes. Even with this I've often have to print with a Grade 1 filter.
Do you also shoot it below box speed? Or at box speed?
Steve M.
Veteran
I don't know how much FP4 you have laying around, but my suggestion would be to make your life simpler and better by shooting some Tri-X and developing it in your D76 full strength. But, that's a 400 speed film you say? Not really. I and most people shoot it at 200-250, and the one time I shot it at 100 and developed it normally it still looked pretty darned good.
That film and developer combination is very, very hard to beat, and you get beautiful tonality. It's essentially foolproof. You can meter it all over the place and still get great negs.
That film and developer combination is very, very hard to beat, and you get beautiful tonality. It's essentially foolproof. You can meter it all over the place and still get great negs.
giganova
Well-known
Well, this thread is about FP-4, IMHO the best film out there.... make your life simpler and better by shooting some Tri-X and developing it in your D76 full strength.
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
But this thread is for those who shoot FP4+ it's way better.
my suggestion would be to make your life simpler and better by shooting some Tri-X.
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