davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
I'm thinking about making a mistake and start developing C-41 film, like I have so much time on my hands. Has anyone tried this kit, or is it too new for reviews?
https://filmphotographystore.com/co...oom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
Do I really need dedicated film tanks and reels separate from my B&W stuff? I wash everything after I process B&W, it is all SS stuff.
https://filmphotographystore.com/co...oom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
Do I really need dedicated film tanks and reels separate from my B&W stuff? I wash everything after I process B&W, it is all SS stuff.
Jamie123
Veteran
I don't think so. If there was a risk of contamination then you couldn't ever use a developing tank twice because you couldn't pour in developer after it's had fixer in it.
I think the dedicated container part is more important when it comes to bottles where you keep your chemistry because people usually just rinse them and don't wash them as thoroughly as developing tanks.
Bill Clark
Veteran
I use the same tools to develop color as black and white.
You’ll find color developing is easy.
Try to keep the developer temp consistent during process.
Have fun!
benlees
Well-known
Developing color c41 is quite easy. It needs more planning than b&w, for sure. Have to be careful with constant temps and to have absolutely zero cross contamination. I've used similar products in the past. It helps if you shoot a lot of film as the chems don't last particularly long. 1L of chems is good for 20 rolls? Doing this from memory... the chems last a couple months. I had mixed results: some negs had a very slight tan color cast. Could never quite fix it.
Blix is not pleasant. All c41 chems need proper disposal.
It's fun but c41 kits, and prior to this the negs that came back from the lab dirty and scratched that prompted me to go DIY, confirmed digital is the way to go for me for color. YMMV
Blix is not pleasant. All c41 chems need proper disposal.
It's fun but c41 kits, and prior to this the negs that came back from the lab dirty and scratched that prompted me to go DIY, confirmed digital is the way to go for me for color. YMMV
Bill Clark
Veteran
I use Arista from Freestyle. The nice feature is the chemicals are all in stock liquid. I can mix up working solution for just what I need. No waste!
Link to what I use:
https://www.freestylephoto.biz/20414-Arista-C-41-Liquid-Color-Negative-Developing-Kit-1-Gallon
I’ve got some Ilford XP2 Plus and I’ll see what the results look like.
Link to what I use:
https://www.freestylephoto.biz/20414-Arista-C-41-Liquid-Color-Negative-Developing-Kit-1-Gallon
I’ve got some Ilford XP2 Plus and I’ll see what the results look like.
DaveW
Established
I use these kits with no problems other than a common problem with the stabilizer giving water marks. Not the kits problem per se, just this step in the process.
Imagesfromobjects
Member
Used their kits for several years always great. You probably have a more sophisticated setup than I do, but I've had great results with my no-budget routine. Mix the powder well, use distilled water and store refrigerated between uses, try to avoid too much air in the bottles. For this, I've found empty 1L seltzer bottles are perfect. Obviously, get the plain kind and rinse first, but you can squeeze the air out and cap them easily.
I average about 14-20 rolls per kit, extending the Blix time after 12 rolls, because otherwise you get a funky bluish thing happening.
What's this "free time" thing I keep hearing about?
I average about 14-20 rolls per kit, extending the Blix time after 12 rolls, because otherwise you get a funky bluish thing happening.
What's this "free time" thing I keep hearing about?
randy stewart
Established
"I use these kits with no problems other than a common problem with the stabilizer giving water marks. Not the kits problem per se, just this step in the process."
Mix the stabilizer with distilled water and add a few drops of Photoflo. Hang to dry without wipe. You will have no more marks of any kind.
Mix the stabilizer with distilled water and add a few drops of Photoflo. Hang to dry without wipe. You will have no more marks of any kind.
CharlesDAMorgan
Veteran
randy stewart;2892901 Mix the stabilizer with distilled water and add a few drops of Photoflo. Hang to dry without wipe. You will have no more marks of any kind.[/QUOTE said:
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
Thanks so far guys! It may take more than a little encouragement to take the plunge, but I'm all ears.
Imagesfromobjects
Member
I've actually done away with the stabilizer step altogether with no detrimental effects. It's good for really old or exotic film, but using normal stuff it doesn't seem necessary. Photo-flo is crucial though. I fill a large glass baking pan with warm water and add 1/3 a cap full, swish the film around in it a bit then slowly pull it out a few times and just hang with no wiping.
jbharrill1
Established
I've used this kit once before. The test roll came out just how I would have wanted. I went on vacation to Puerto Rico for 2 weeks and came back excited to develop all the portra and ektar I shot. All 8 rolls ended up having a strange muddy looking cast to them. It turns out that c41 chemistry is wayyyyyy more sensitive to oxygen than d76 is. I left around an inch of air in the bottle that I was storing the developer in I've decided that's what caused the issue. MAKE SURE TO SQUEEZE ALL THE AIR OUT.
Also every roll I developed had weird white drying marks/streaks. It's not due to hard water, my b and w has never had this issue. The streaks are caused by the stabilizer that the FPP kits contain. I read somewhere that the stab mix is actually too strong and that the streaks are dried stabilizer. You could try and cut the mix in half but then you run the risk of it not doing it's job. Pec 12 and Pec pads/q-tips will work perfect for removing the drying marks.
Lastly, there is a ton of contradicting information online regarding mixing photo Flo with the stabilizer to avoid the drying marks. I tried mixing in a drop or two of photo Flo, it did fix the problem but a lot of folks think that the photo Flo causes the stabilizer to run off the film before it has time to do it's job. I would use stabilizer w/out photo Flo and then just use pec 12 to remove the spots and rest easy knowing that I didn't change the process and run the risk of my negs becoming useless in 10 years.
Have fun.
Also every roll I developed had weird white drying marks/streaks. It's not due to hard water, my b and w has never had this issue. The streaks are caused by the stabilizer that the FPP kits contain. I read somewhere that the stab mix is actually too strong and that the streaks are dried stabilizer. You could try and cut the mix in half but then you run the risk of it not doing it's job. Pec 12 and Pec pads/q-tips will work perfect for removing the drying marks.
Lastly, there is a ton of contradicting information online regarding mixing photo Flo with the stabilizer to avoid the drying marks. I tried mixing in a drop or two of photo Flo, it did fix the problem but a lot of folks think that the photo Flo causes the stabilizer to run off the film before it has time to do it's job. I would use stabilizer w/out photo Flo and then just use pec 12 to remove the spots and rest easy knowing that I didn't change the process and run the risk of my negs becoming useless in 10 years.
Have fun.
DaveW
Established
Just want to echo what jbharrill1 said. The marks seem to be dried stabilizer and some suggest using photo flo and some think this ruins the chemistry. I always use distilled when mixing the stabilizer so that is not the issue. These marks do wipe off but then you likely introduce dust and whatever else is a part of the wiping medium. I have tried this with microfiber clothes with mixed success.
randy stewart
Established
Mixing stabilizer from kit
Mixing stabilizer from kit
Couples of comments to some of the above remarks.
1. If the C-41 process of modern films doesn't really require stabilizer, you can be sure the vendors of the kits would not include it, if for cost savings alone. If you omit stabilizer, the dyes formed by development are exposed to being degraded in the future, but you would not see an immediate effect.
2. Stabilizer soaks into the film emulsion and stays there to chemically shield the dyes in the emulsion from adverse external environments (water; chemicals in the air). It does not stand on the film surface or wipe off. Photoflo is a wetting agent which eliminates surface tension in the water standing on the film. There is no chemical interaction between the two. Comments to the contrary are just "voodoo of the uninformed mind".
Mixing stabilizer from kit
Couples of comments to some of the above remarks.
1. If the C-41 process of modern films doesn't really require stabilizer, you can be sure the vendors of the kits would not include it, if for cost savings alone. If you omit stabilizer, the dyes formed by development are exposed to being degraded in the future, but you would not see an immediate effect.
2. Stabilizer soaks into the film emulsion and stays there to chemically shield the dyes in the emulsion from adverse external environments (water; chemicals in the air). It does not stand on the film surface or wipe off. Photoflo is a wetting agent which eliminates surface tension in the water standing on the film. There is no chemical interaction between the two. Comments to the contrary are just "voodoo of the uninformed mind".