FR corporation 4x5 developing tank

MilspecII

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Does anyone have any information about these tanks? I have no idea how much chemical to use? The one thing I do know is there will be no inverting this tank, I guess side to side agitation? Well anyway just got a Graflex Crown Graphic and I cant wait to use it, got some cheap x-ray film to ruin on my first attempts at shooting and developing 4x5, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
I tried the Yankee tank once and sloshed out more developer than stayed in the tank. I then bought the HP Combi tank which I have used for many years.
 
The FR 4x5 tanks are worthless.

Distribution of the processing solution components across a negative is ghastly resulting in a fully developed negative center and barely developed edges.

Use the FR tank as an ashtray or flowerpot, don't take it to the darkroom.
 
I got the FR 4x5 tank but never used it. The Nikor tank (hard to find in 4x5) allows
regular inversion. Also, there's one made in China, like the Nikor it's stainless steel,
available on eBay.
 
I read where the FR tank uses 1500ml of solution for 4x5 negs...
I have a Yankee Tank (that I've never used) and it shows 55oz. or 1626ml to fill it...
Like KenR stated, these are NOT water tight so extra care to not slosh chemicals all over your sink...
I use a Nikor SS tank for 4x5 film developing, works super nice...uses just over a liter for 4x5 film...
 
I got the FR 4x5 tank but never used it. The Nikor tank (hard to find in 4x5) allows
regular inversion. Also, there's one made in China, like the Nikor it's stainless steel,
available on eBay.

I've used the Nikor 4x5 tanks and they process film evenly if one inverts the tank frrequenty during development.

Unhappily, I seemed to scratch my negatives often when loading the Nikor reels. This is my inability rather than a design defect with the tank.

I began using stainless film hangers with plastic food containers as tanks and my problems disappeared.

YMMV.
 
Does anyone have any information about these tanks? I have no idea how much chemical to use? The one thing I do know is there will be no inverting this tank, I guess side to side agitation? ...


I've used one, though that was a bit over a half century ago. The only way I could get even halfway decent results was to prefill the tank with developer and then, with the lights out, put the loaded insert into the tank and then put the lid on before turning on the lights. Also, it was necessary to only load every other slot in the insert, or better yet every thirds slot, in order to get anything close to acceptably uniform development. I quickly put the thing aside and resorted to tray development.
 
I had one of the FR tanks and think I sold it to someone on the forum. While it can be mastered it take a lot of experimentation to get the agitation just right. It does work. Probably the best place to start would be with a developer like HC110 H wher the times are long and you can use different patterns of agitation throughout the process. It can be mastered.

I sold it and start running my sheet film in a Jobo drum. Development is perfectly even in their drums but they’ve gotten very expensive.

I also picked up an HP CombiPlan daylight processing tank. The CombiPlan takes 6 sheets and can be adjusted for different film sizes.it takes 1L of chemistry. Its similar to the FR but smaller and seals so it can be inverted. Development is perfectly even every time and easy to use. The only to negatives are, if fills and drains slowly but you can deal with that and they have been discontinued for about 10-12 years. You can find them used but you’ll pay a big price and parts are no longe available. When I heard they were being discontinued I bought a good supply of parts.

They Nikkor type tanks, ??? I had one of the original Nikkor but had Metz and a Colenta rotary tube systems in my studio and didn’t mess with the Nikkor tank much.

If you can find a Jobo pro tank at a reasonable price grab it. Jobo professional tanks were available in 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10. There were various options up to 10 sheet 4x5 tanks and the 8x10 takes 5x7 also. I’d have to look at my tanks but think that’s right.
 
The JOBO 3010 drum is the king for developing 4x5. You'll need a roller base too and the combo will be pricey, mostly due to the JOBO. JOBO also has a 2000 system that has reels and I think they have a 4x5 reel for that. Never used it myself. That might be cheaper than the 3010. Also you can treat it like a regular tank and do inversions.

Second I would say a Paterson with the MOD 54 insert. I know there are other inserts out there too, one from France I think. For most people I the Paterson with the MOD insert is the best/easiest to find/cheapest route.

Third I would go with the Nikor but they are hard to find.

The other tanks work ok, but anything that doesn't seal avoid. Leaks are a pain.

There is always tray developing in the dark too. Not fond of that myself, but it is cheap and works fine.

There are other methods too like making a slosher, but frankly it isn't worth the grief. YOu could also do the "taco" method with a regular tank and rubber bands. Not sure about that but if you already have a regular tank....

LF film is pricey these days. Don't skimp on the tank.....

Hope that helps you.
 
You don’t need a Jobo to use Jobo drums. You can roll them by hand on a counter or do like I did. I had a Jobo CP2 but sold it and use a Uniroller. Ciba, Uniroller or Besler roller all work great. It’s the cost of the drum that’s expensive. I think I paid well under $200 each back years ago but I e seen them go for $700 and more in recent years.
 
I hear the Jobo, as described by x-ray, is a perfectly good solution.

If you can spring for a film holder/reel to use in a Nikor or Patterson tank, DO IT! It really is the only way to go. I've tried tray processing, and then some kind of square tank system (perhaps like this FR you mention?), and even the "taco method" and so much to dislike. Then I used the film holder (reel) for stainless tanks and that was that. I think it is a Nikor item. I see them for sale over on APUG (or whatever its called now) every now and then. Unfortunately, they sell for quite a lot more these days. Really quite a lot. Sorry about that...but there's a reason for that.

BTW, my main 4x5 system these days is a Crown Graphic too. I only use it a few times a year though -- kind of sad. But, so many cameras and so little time...
 
I use a Paterson Orbital or Stearman Press SP810 for my sheet film. Easy to load and uses about 300-500ml of chemistry. Very easy to dry for another go as well.
 
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