Framing Tips

hks3sgte

Established
Local time
9:57 AM
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
123
How do you guys frame your images? Not having any brightlines or parallax correction (like my Canonet) have made a lot of my photos come out with crappy framing. Any tips for an FSU newb? Thanks!
 
if subject is close i frame it and then slightly move camera up and left. but be careful it is just small move - if you remember how much your framelines move on canonet move it about that much. ;)
 
The answer is the same as the old joke:

Q: "How do you get to Carnegie Hall?"

A: "Practice."

Cheers,

R. (Using a IIIa since 1970...)
 
Unless you're into close ups parallax is not an issue.

If your camera doesn't have brightlines then I'd assume that what you seen in the viewfinder is what you get on the negative.

That just leaves using the four sides of the viewfinder to check your verticals and horizons are straight - but they'll often be a bit off so you'll need to correct later. Like we all do.
 
Correct later? How? Maybe those are the tips I'm looking for?

In a traditional darkroom crop slightly and turn the paper slightly left or right, as required.

On a screen do the same with mouse clicks and menus.

Most times we just want to take off a few millimetres from one side, and make the horizon straight.
 
Last edited:
In a traditional darkroom crop slightly and turn the paper slightly left or right, as required.

On a screen do the same with mouse clicks and menus.

Most times we just want to take off a few millimetres from one side, and make the horizon straight.


ok... i'll stick to the "practice" method. I'm not too into post-alterations. Thanks, though!
 
The one about Carnegie Hall used to be that a tourist asked a native NYCer how to get there. However, the answer was the same as above.
 
FED, Zorki, Leica, Retina etc. etc. all show more in the VF than will appear on the negative, especially at closer distances. Just have to leave lots of extra space for the top and sides (thanks to parralax the bottom is reasonably accurate).
 
FED, Zorki, Leica, Retina etc. etc. all show more in the VF than will appear on the negative, especially at closer distances. Just have to leave lots of extra space for the top and sides (thanks to parralax the bottom is reasonably accurate).


I thought the viewfinder was for a 50mm lens? SO what you are saying is that the viewfinder is more like a 45mm view?
 
the fixed VF can only be accurate for one distance. in older cameras they were designed to mostly be accurate at infinity so at closer distances they show much more than you will get on the negative. When I got into old RF's it took me a while to figure out why I was suddenly cutting off heads etc. Most modern VF cameras have parallax marks that make up a smaller frameline, you have to figure out what these would be for your camera. I've meant to make a target and shoot some film at 1 and 2 meters... but haven't gotten around to it yet... so I just add space at the top and sides and accept that I will have to do some minor cropping in the end when using a RF. In one of Ansel Adams books I remember he characterized rangefinders as being too inaccurate for precise framing...
 
rather smug response seeing that what you see in the VF isn't what will be on the negative. From my last roll through my Leica IIIc I had a frame where the camera cut off more than I thought it would... and guess what? I followed your useless advice completely!

>>
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nh3
Winogrand, "I frame in terms of what I want to include in the picture."

Try it, it works.
 
Back
Top Bottom