Frustrating Rangefinder Shutter Repair

Timmyjoe

Timmyjoe

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I've owned numerous Leica and Nikon rangefinders over the years and one "bugaboo" that keeps popping up is shutter timing. Where one side of the image ends up darker than the other side, as the shutter curtain spacing changes as the curtains move across the image frame. Has happened on three Leicas, and my current Nikon S2. This S2 has made repeated trips to one of the better known rangefinder service techs here in the States, and yet the issue persists.

So I'm looking for someone who is an expert at this camera and on this issue. Anyone out there had a really good experience with a service tech who "nails it" when it comes to Nikon rangefinder shutters?

Best,
-Tim
 
I'd like to hear these answers. I've had my IIIf serviced 3 times in the last 5 years with the only complaint being the shutter. I finally adjusted the left to right problem myself so it can't be too hard. But there are still problems with shutter bounce, and this after replacing the shutters the first time. This is shutter bounce:

Kodak 400 Max expired by John Carter, on Flickr
 
I had an issue like you're showing on a Nikon F2 and it drove me crazy. It had been in for service multiple times and they finally got it fixed.

250th.jpg


Focal plane shutters are a PITA.

Best,
-Tim
 
(When I think I fixed it, the results from using in cold temperature just sent me back to the start.)

I find the upgraded Leica style focal plane shutters in SLRs like Pentax MX and Oly OM1 much more usable in comparison with Barnack bodies.
 
My Nikon S2 definitely has more shutter issues in cold temperatures than it does in hot temperatures.

Best,
-Tim
 
Timmyjoe said:
I had an issue like you're showing on a Nikon F2 and it drove me crazy. It had been in for service multiple times and they finally got it fixed.

250th.jpg


Focal plane shutters are a PITA.

Best,
-Tim
Click to expand...

How did you do the test to check if there is a shutter bounce, as shown in the photo? I assume the darkened strip close to the right edge is the problem, correct?
 
High speed digital camera (something like 400 fps).

It also showed up in every picture I took with the camera. That dark stripe on the one side of each image. It's been a few years now, but if I recall correctly, the first shutter curtain was completing it's travel and bouncing back across the image frame a bit before the second curtain got all the way across, thereby shortening the exposure for that strip of negative.

Best,
-Tim
 
I am encountering the same problem in my Canon VL (one side darker at 1/1000)...otherwise it's my favorite RF of all time. After countless adjustments, it still goes back to this behavior, esp. in cold weather...giving more like 1/2000 sec at 1/1000, which sounds great in theory but obtaining an even exposure across the frame is impossible at that high speed in this shutter design. I even went to the extent of adjusting the 1/1000 eccentric under the shutter dial and it was not possible to adjust the slit width any wider than it already was. I have come to the conclusion that the shutter curtains were glued incorrectly at the factory...so for now I don't use 1/1000, although I'm thinking of getting in there and replacing the curtains, or attempting to re-glue...but I dunno with those fragile metal Canon curtains....maybe replacing them with cloth is the answer. I do not have this problem with my Canon 7 and IVSB, although my IIIg was finicky, but could be adjusted. There's also the issue of aging springs in the shutters of this design, and it just may not be possible to achieve perfect shutter speeds. There are those that claim even a new Leica MP top speed is really closer to 1/750. As for my VL I'd settle for 1/750 rather than 1/2000 with one side dark.

As for shutter bounce, I've had great success with simple lubrication of the first curtain roller. Just a squirt of ronsonol is often enough to do the trick.
 
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