Daimon
Established
Question about rangefinder adjustement. But not a standard RF rotating window + adjustement screw.
I noticed that some FSU rangefinders tend to have a crooked rangefinder ghost image. Did some checking and culprit is clear - RF mirror is not aligned with beam splitter plane.
Any guidance on how to perform adjustement process?
Example from my Zorki 6 on how bad it can be
(yes, it's not possible to calibrate RF at all on this camera using a standard method)
I noticed that some FSU rangefinders tend to have a crooked rangefinder ghost image. Did some checking and culprit is clear - RF mirror is not aligned with beam splitter plane.
Any guidance on how to perform adjustement process?
Example from my Zorki 6 on how bad it can be
(yes, it's not possible to calibrate RF at all on this camera using a standard method)
dxq.canada
Well-known
Is there a big screw with a washer on the back of this prism?
If so I am guessing that is this securing it ... so you should be able to loosen it and adjust the tilt.
If so I am guessing that is this securing it ... so you should be able to loosen it and adjust the tilt.
Daimon
Established
Yep it's there. But I'm more wondering about proper "process".
- main prism with beam splitter may have some tilt and it's not adjustable
- RF window prism has adjustable axis - by loosening 2 screws marked by red arrows it's possible to slightly skew axis itself
- then as you mentioned it's also possible to rotate prism itself by loosening screw on back (blue arrow)
- main prism with beam splitter may have some tilt and it's not adjustable
- RF window prism has adjustable axis - by loosening 2 screws marked by red arrows it's possible to slightly skew axis itself
- then as you mentioned it's also possible to rotate prism itself by loosening screw on back (blue arrow)
dxq.canada
Well-known
I would guess the two top screws would give minor adjustment ... and the screw in the back for major movement (which it appears your prism needs).
Daimon
Established
Ok so to make it clear there are 5 screws there but one is in the shadow
- 2 big marked by red arrows - those allow to move top plate effectively changing axis (i.e. changing ball bearing position)
- 1 big on the back of prism - marked by blue arrow - this should loosen prism itself
- 2 small these allow to fine tune prism axis (which is orthogonal to the axis controlled by red arrow screws)
- 2 big marked by red arrows - those allow to move top plate effectively changing axis (i.e. changing ball bearing position)
- 1 big on the back of prism - marked by blue arrow - this should loosen prism itself
- 2 small these allow to fine tune prism axis (which is orthogonal to the axis controlled by red arrow screws)
dxq.canada
Well-known
Hmm, I cannot provide any experienced advise as I have never worked on a Zorki ... just guessing based on the images I have seen.