Fuji 1600 shot at 100?

[peterc]

The film was shot in Paris outdoors, slight overcast conditions but still quite bright.

This is good. HC-110 as Titrisol suggested or Rodinal at 1+100 for 10-12 minutes should salvage the roll to a certain extent. Some highlights will likely be blown out but the negs should be printable.

Peter

 

[GRK]

Thanks for all the replys.

I'll pass on the information and let you know everything turns out, if I am allowed I'll try and upload some of the prints.

Gengez

 

[RayPA]

I'm wondering if a split developer might be a better choice (I'm trying to get my head around this one!). I use split developers to control contrast, primarily to hold the highlights, so...hmmm?

I saw the suggestion about D23. I've use it both split and "whole." It's a standard developer for me in both states. I think split might be the way to go. Whole is a lot like D76, IMO.

In any case, it wouldn't hurt to have a test roll (12 exp, or so) to work with first, especially if the shots on the "live" roll are valuable.



.

 

[kaiyen]

Well, if you really want to get out there you can try POTA, too 🙂. It's for super-duper contrast control.

And yes, "super-duper" is a technical term.

allan

 

[derevaun]

Seems like anything with the time cut in third (and still over 4 minutes) will make a negative that's scannable, and hardly anything is going to make a negative that's easy to print. Not much else to lose 🙂

 

[RayPA]

Well, if you really want to get out there you can try POTA, too 🙂. It's for super-duper contrast control.

And yes, "super-duper" is a technical term.

allan

Is splitting D23 "getting out there"? 🙂 Wow! I feel like a mad scientist. 🙂 This stuff is so easy to mix. POTA is what 2 or 3 common ingrediants? D23 is 2 common ingredients, and split it's 3 common ingredients (or more depending on the variation).

I've never tried POTA. I haven't needed that much contrast control. Maybe some day, when I'm feeling like a mad scientist. 😉




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.

 

[titrisol]

Divided D23: (From the national academy of photography)
BATH A
Water at 125°F 750 ml
Metol (Elon) 7.5 g
Sodium sulfite (desiccated) 100 g
Water to make 1000 ml

BATH B
Water 750 ml
Borax 15 g
Water to make 1000 ml

I've seen some variation in the amount of borax, or the use of metaborate (Kodalk) as bath B
I guess different bffers will give you different results, borax will tend to lower the contrast and adding some carbonate will increase it.


PS. GRK... how didi it go????

 

[RayPA]

Divided D23: (From the national academy of photography)
BATH A
Water at 125°F 750 ml
Metol (Elon) 7.5 g
Sodium sulfite (desiccated) 100 g
Water to make 1000 ml

BATH B
Water 750 ml
Borax 15 g
Water to make 1000 ml

I've seen some variation in the amount of borax, or the use of metaborate (Kodalk) as bath B
I guess different bffers will give you different results, borax will tend to lower the contrast and adding some carbonate will increase it.


PS. GRK... how didi it go????

That's it, although, yes, there are other formulas. I know Anchell (sp?) in his darkoom book lists about 6-8 variations.



.

 

[titrisol]

On further thought, would alow contrast (aka cine) develope rwork better????

 

[GRK]

Well, I passed on the information and with a fresh bottle of HC-110 my friend attempted to develop the film. It failed :-(

The negatives show very faint images- as if the dev time hadnt been enough. Next time i guess dev time needs to be doubled or possibly tripled.

Thanks for all the help though.

 

[kaiyen]

What? You overexposed the film by 4 stops from box speed and nothing came out? I would've expected it to be all silver, not the other way around. Did the text along the film's edge come out?

allan

 

[titrisol]

And what time/dilution did he/she used?

I would certainly think that given 4 stops of overxposure a very strong image would form, almost silver plated i';d say..... i';ve seen that happening with too much wine, a roll of HP5 and a flash gun set for EI 100.

Well, I passed on the information and with a fresh bottle of HC-110 my friend attempted to develop the film. It failed :-(

The negatives show very faint images- as if the dev time hadnt been enough. Next time i guess dev time needs to be doubled or possibly tripled.

Thanks for all the help though.