Fuji for Digital Newbie?

@rhl-oregon: I wondered when you'd stop by Robert! I knew this would be right up your alley.

Ho ho, happily I'm the nice Fuji enabler in the alley, not the one going Psst hey kid, wanna buy an M8 with only 66,000 clicks? I'll throw in some magenta-colored glasses for free!

Don't know whether you have a computer recycling nonprofit, or a Good computer store, but that's where I'd look on a tight budget. Unfortunately I'm hooked up to Macs.

I can send you my old LR2 (registration code included naturally) as a gift, if that would help you get going in film-like post-processing.

Cheerios,

Robert
 
B-9 said:
Can I go off topic for a post or two, and ask what are my best PC options?
My budget would have to be a slim 200-300$ no preference to desktop or laptop. I understand that the programs will also be pricey? I prefer to buy items at discounts, used, refurbished, etc. what should I look for?

Thanks a bunch again, ive really been hesitant to make the jump until just recently, Im feeling its time, to make one of those life changes and take a risk.

@rhl-oregon: I wondered when you'd stop by Robert! I knew this would be right up your alley.
Click to expand...

PC? I don't really want to speak about them but there are very nice programs which are Open Source or similar and can be used to start...or maybe forever. Have a look at The Gimp and its companion UFRaw and to LightZone for example.

GLF
 
B-9 said:
Can I go off topic for a post or two, and ask what are my best PC options?
My budget would have to be a slim 200-300$ no preference to desktop or laptop. I understand that the programs will also be pricey? I prefer to buy items at discounts, used, refurbished, etc. what should I look for?
Click to expand...

What do u already have in way of pc? Especially memory (ram)..

Gary
 
My bad PC or MAC is welcome here! Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

Ive heard of The Gimp, I had briefly toyed with it a few years back, when I had access to a PC. I was confused to say the least.
 
My sis bought something similar to this from these people.
Aperture is under $100. Remember that not all editing SW will handle X-trans files very well.
I've tried Aperture3, LR5, and Capture one 7.
CO7 looked best but, I still prefer A3 for it's simplicity. It does a nice job for little dough.
As far as Hardware I just prefer macs at this point. Others may prefer something else. It really matters little. Just choose an eco-system and stay with it so you can focus on your photography rather than computer.
Which is why I prefer Mac to open source or PC, The system generally stays the same even through updates.
 
I use all three- the X-pro1, X-E1 and X100s. I use them to make a living. The one I use the least is the X-pro1; I have progressive eyeglass lenses and can't seem to find a diopter balance between the OVF and EVF. The one I use the most is the X-E1; light, fast-focussing and the EVF is excellent once you get used to it. I take out the X100s when I'm feeling nostalgic; it's the one that is closest to that old Leica feeling without selling the house to scratch the itch. If I could only have one, it would be the X-E1, hands down. I mostly use it with the 18-55, although I own all of the other lenses. I would recommend the 35 f/1.4 if you want a prime.
 
I am going to jump back in here due to something I learned today about using the EVF on the X100 (and of course the XE1).

I always use the OVF. But, today I had a polarizing filter on the X100 and switched to the EVF to keep an eye on the polarizing effect.
Worked just fine until I tried to shoot a lady throwing stuff for her dog to catch. The lag in the EFV was terrible ! I missed every shot because the dog was a second (or 2 !) ahead of the viewfinder refresh. Ultimately I just looked above the hot shoe and shot that way and got one good shot off.

On the way home it occurred to me that I simply should have used the EVF to check the polarizer the switched back to the OVF to take the shot, but too late for that now.

Anyway . . . . if you are shooting fast moving stuff, it's quite tricky with the EVF. Maybe that influences your X100 vs XE1 decision ?

Or maybe the XE1 guys have a workaround for this ?


EDIT: Note that my complaint about the EVF lag is not due to using a polarizer. It simply happens that using the polarizer is how I became aware of the EVF lag.
 
B-9 said:
Nothing, htc smart phone.
Click to expand...

Ouch.... A completely new digital Eco system. That is good and bad.

First suggestion, is there a photo club near u? If so c if there is a digital member that can help u with this part of the process if u don't have any friends around that can help out.

Mac maybe the easiest to learn, but tends to be more expensive until u look at other factors such as the included sw and hw components.

In the world of pc's u got windows and linux. The new windows os from Microsoft has gotten a lot better and is pretty easy to use these days, but u may need newer hw for it (not sure.. What min hw requirement is, but same goes for mac as well). Linux, I defer to Linux gurus amongst us. I am mainly mac based and have used windows at work.

I am sure others are going to disagree, not sure if there is a right answer here 🙁. But maybe, it maybe better to get the cheapest laptop u can afford, whether pc or Mac. Make due w/ slower performance and start w/ jpg only for now.. The Fuji Jpg engine is one of the best out there. Learn your new digital Eco system first, upgrade to better pc/mac hw later once u have a feel for what is really best for u.

Good luck
Gary
 
I've been contemplating a digital purchase much like B-9 has, so this is very helpful. I think the Fujis are more up my alley than anything else out there (Leica is out of the question for now, anyway). Guess I'll look at the X-pro1 first.

It was not a subject of discussion, but I take it the X-10/X-20 are not worthy of consideration? A fast fixed lens zoom could work for me -- something with slightly more reach on both ends would be better, but for general use these seem like nice cameras. (Didn't mean to hijack the thread!)
 
They are actually pretty good cameras.. But since they have smaller sensors... A lot depends on your high iso requirements. Some people don't seem to like the ovf of the x10/x20 series compared to x100 or xp1. I don't own one mainly because it is a coat pocket size camera and I have an x100.

Gary
 
KoNickon said:
I've been contemplating a digital purchase much like B-9 has, so this is very helpful. I think the Fujis are more up my alley than anything else out there (Leica is out of the question for now, anyway). Guess I'll look at the X-pro1 first.

It was not a subject of discussion, but I take it the X-10/X-20 are not worthy of consideration? A fast fixed lens zoom could work for me -- something with slightly more reach on both ends would be better, but for general use these seem like nice cameras. (Didn't mean to hijack the thread!)
Click to expand...

Recently I started using an x20. It's a great little camera with pretty nice capability. The interface and usability of this little guy is unmatched in it's sector imo.
I have the Sony RX100 here also. It does have cleaner hi iso performance but, the handling and UI are poop!

Speaking of Polarizing...
If one wears Polarized glasses while using the XE-1 or Xpro-1 the evf will be rendered useless as those two cameras have polarized VF's.
The x100 does not BTW and I'm able to use it perfectly. Not sure about the x100s.

Cheers!
 
You are a film person.
Going Digital means really having a PC .Sorry.
You can work without, but you scan, what are you doing with images?
Going digital, I'd suggest an old PC XP or Windows 7, not expensive.
Rather than get the Fuji cameras, try out a basic Point and shoot digital.
A price of under $100. New. Canon,Nikon,Fuji or Pentax.
The feel of digital is amazing.
Sure it's not film. Not close.
It is itself. A lovely way to work.
Personally i think scanning sucks big time.
i love my film cameras but not this way..
Getting your feet wet.
A nice inexpensive way to start or quit.
 
Last edited:
Im sorry I didnt clarify, I have a degree in Graphic design and Technical Engineering, I dont utilize these skills in my current job and have no need for a computer. I have a Epson V300 that I purchased to use while in college and would tote it to the computer lab. The images I saved on my account or on a CF card. Im also not completely new to digital, having owned a Nikon D80 and D2h, both briefly and never with any intent to get to know them. I eventually sold each for film and gear more in my comfort zone.
 
I second the suggestion to buy a computer if you're interested in digital photography. Linux computers can be obtained cheaply - all the software is free so you can go whole hog on hardware. I paid $450 for my laptop two years ago and both GIMP and darktable (open source Lightroom clone) run admirably well, even with 4000 dpi scans. You could get a faster desktop today for around $350 new.
 
B-9,

Along with the useful answers to your question about focus peaking I would like to add it is just another tool you can use to focus mirrorless digital cameras. In some cases it is very useful with manual focus lenses.

The X-Pro1 is flexible and you can focus using a variety of techniques with the XF lenses. Third-party lenses are compatible with some of these techniques. Different lenses in different situations benefit from different focusing methods. Switching between EVF and OVF is simple, fast and useful, but it takes most of us a while to incorporate switching back and forth as needed.

This flexibility also has a downside. Some people can not cope with using different methods in different situations. These people usually are the ones who complain about the X series' focusing. I had someone insist that under no circumstance was focus and recompose an acceptable technique. I asked them to explain how people made well-focused photos from analog rangefinders for decades.

The X-Pro 1 and X100 do require a learning curve. The XE-1 is a bit easier to learn because it is simpler. You already understand parallax, so adapting to the XP-1 OVF will be easier.
 
My biggest gripe about the XP1 is the cost, If I had the budget for the XP1 Ide proly just save an extra few hundred and grab an M8 for the native M mount and true rangefinder.

The XE1 is going to be my decision, it offers just about everything im concerned with right off the rip. Its compact, well priced, has manual controls, accepts my lenses via adapter, contains the same X-trans sensor as its older brother, and has a Factory made grip option like the XP1. The EVF doesnt scare me, XP1 or XE1 it will be a learning curve either way.

Im grateful for all the support, I dont think I could have made this decision without all the great input. Searching google for reviews is sort of a depressing task, there are so many naysayers. It makes it hard to be confident in a decision when there is a lack of positive support. Its great to get real-life, real user opinions of the camera in everyday use.

Heck, these ugly things are even starting to look good to me. 😀
An acquired taste I assume? Much like American Beer.
 
On the m8 u hanker for...

The individual electronic components that are part of the m8 are at or will be reaching their end of life cycle.. Meaning that the original component makers of individual parts no longer make that part. Your luck is going to very in terms of finding replacements parts in the open market. The hw engineers that I used to work w/ hated going out into grey market to get parts once the manufacturers stop; think how bad it is for the small repair operations.

That m8 could be fine for the life of your ownership.. Just something u need to understand before u buy into the camera. The same can be said for any digital camera after it gets past 5-10 years for that matter, it is just that other cameras don't cost so much used after they are older than 3-5 years. I don't have a problem buying used digital cameras, but I tend not to buy ones past 5 years old.

Gary
 
GaryLH said:
On the m8 u hanker for...

The individual electronic components that are part of the m8 are at or will be reaching their end of life cycle.. Meaning that the original component makers of individual parts no longer make that part. Your luck is going to very in terms of finding replacements parts in the open market. The hw engineers that I used to work w/ hated going out into grey market to get parts once the manufacturers stop; think how bad it is for the small repair operations.

That m8 could be fine for the life of your ownership.. Just something u need to understand before u buy into the camera. The same can be said for any digital camera after it gets past 5-10 years for that matter, it is just that other cameras don't cost so much used after they are older than 3-5 years. I don't have a problem buying used digital cameras, but I tend not to buy ones past 5 years old.

Gary
Click to expand...


I have the same notion, I plan to buy the XE1 new with warranty.
I did find a seller offering the XE1 with 1 year warranty for 660$ not including shipping. .

So far Ive made an effort of saving, Im up to a lowly 170$ albeit on one very very small item.
I have both my M4-2 and MD currently on eBay, but no hits yet with 1 day left.
I would have thought 600$ for a M4-2 would have caught a few buyers, but I may have better luck on the classifieds.
But then again, havnt been doing so well on the classifieds lately.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
asking about using soviet m39 lenses on leica screw mount cameras
2
Replies
28
Views
3K
boojum
boojum
gzisis69
Which digital camera with 28mm
2 3 4
Replies
60
Views
7K
Bolo Kukus
B
laptoprob
SilverStax
Replies
10
Views
745
laptoprob
laptoprob
lxmike
Anyone else prefer their XT to their X series rangefinder
2
Replies
28
Views
5K
sojournerphoto
S
B
Fed lens cap modification
Replies
3
Views
1K
former member
F
Back
Top Bottom