Fuji GW690 II

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merrill

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Welcome back to the RF fold.

It's hard to tell from your online samples because they're relatively small, but the GW690II should be fully capable of providing razor sharp results without a tripod, but much depends on your handling skills. I know I can use my GW670III (identical in size & operation to the 6x9 version) @ the same slow shutter speeds that I would use a 35mm RF, i.e., down to around 1/15th sec., when used w/care but without special bracing, etc. I think the camera's larger size & mass help me keep it steady even though the focal length is longer, but your experience could very different.

As far as your eyes, I know that focusing can be more difficult w/these Fujis because the RF patch is pretty small when compared to that on a Leica, etc.

merrill said:
Having sold a much loved Contax G2 system a few years ago, I've returned to the rangefinder fold with a Fuji 6x9. Just got a first results back and they don't look very sharp. Have a look at :

http://www.merrillmorrow.com/p867103204/h3475cc7b#h3475cc7b
http://www.merrillmorrow.com/p867103204/h3475cc7b#h36996c9e

Might there be something wrong with the viewfinder or, more likely, my eyes or is a tripod an essential for this camera?

Merrill
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furcafe said:
Welcome back to the RF fold.

...

I know I can use my GW670III (identical in size & operation to the 6x9 version) @ the same slow shutter speeds that I would use a 35mm RF, i.e., down to around 1/15th sec., when used w/care.
Click to expand...

FWIW, I've also hand-held my Fuji GW for many shots, even in very low light. However, I'm always very conscious of keeping the camera as absolutely still as possible. I shoot it on a monopod when I really care about sharpness.

I think you should shoot another roll or two and see how things turn out.

Hand-held, low light:


plymouth by mike thomas, on Flickr


On monopod:


dekoevend park, littleton, colorado by mike thomas, on Flickr
 
I would say your rangefinder may be off....

I would say your rangefinder may be off....

I don't like the flowers as indicators of sharpness, but in looking at your two linked pix, the very foreground of your pics are in better focus than the subject area.

As mentioned, the lens is certainly capable of better results. You could try some varied focus shots. However, I posted in another thread, a method to check the focus of the camera, since the negative area is big enough to use a ground glass. I cut a ground glass so it fits directly on the film plane with the back open (remember to put the frosted side toward the lens). Mount the camera on a tripod and check with a loupe on the ground glass, the relationship of sharp to the rangefinder. I tape the GG to the camera, again so that it fits on the inner two shiny surfaces along the film plane.

As far as using a tripod, I shoot the heavier Fuji's before the fixed lens. It's difficult to answer the "should you...." question because we all handhold at different rates of steadiness, but given the negative size and camera weight (even though your's is lighter than mine) I generally prefer a tripod. The tripod is my best "sharpness" tool in my euipment.

Try the tripod. Then check the rangefinder focus. Again, I thinkyour rangefinder is adjusted a bit toward Front Focus, so try focusing further back,,,, say somewhat behind the subject point of desired focus.

I always send my Big Fujica/Fuji cameras to Frank Marsh at Camera Wiz. He's somewhat of a specialist on these and very reasonable. He's in Harrisburg VA. He may still have an eMail but responds best by telephone. I've used him a lot, but don't think I've ever seen an eMail back from him. He speaks fluent english and is not that hard to get to the phone.

Good luck. Your camera can do better. No doubt in my mind. Also use a subject that has more definitive detail lines. Flowers do not. Also, some people are disappointed that these cameras are not good on Macro. Shortest sharp focus distance is between 3-4 feet. But from 4 feet to infinity, the Fuji EBC coated lens should be tack sharp, properly focused. Also try the distance scale on the lens against a measured distance. That should work well.
 
These cameras have sharp lenses, so I'll throw in w/ the folks who suspect it's the RF alignment being off. Just put the camera on a tripod. place a ground glass over the frame rails, and ck the focus at a few distances w/ a loupe. I'll bet that's the issue. Shouldn't be that hard to readjust it. For what it's worth, I never use a tripod unless it's w/ a LF camera, as I found that as long as my speeds are over 1/125 (1/250 for sure), and it's not a windy day, things will be plenty sharp. At 1/250, it takes a lot of moving to cause un-sharpness. A properly aligned MF folder w/ a decent lens should give you better shots than what you're currently getting.

The shot of the back of the car shows that the lens isn't stopped down enough. Remember, you have less DOF w/ MF than 35mm, so you'll have to stop the lens down considerably more than you would with a 35mm camera. I never warmed up to the look of the Fuji glass, and might humbly suggest a Rolleiflex w/ a good lens if you want really sharp AND contrasty shots. Go w/ Gernan glass over Japanese any chance you get, that's my philosophy. Or try a Mamiya 6 or 7, which has better glass than the Fuji to my eyes (but again, my preference would be for a Rolleiflex).
 
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FYI, the car shot is mathomas's, not the OP's (merrill's), & I think the shallow DoF was deliberate, or perhaps forced on him due to low light.

Steve M. said:
The shot of the back of the car shows that the lens isn't stopped down enough. Remember, you have less DOF w/ MF than 35mm, so you'll have to stop the lens down considerably more than you would with a 35mm camera.
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Yep - that shot of the Plymouth is definitely Matthomas's - and it is absolutely tack sharp (if anyone were complaining about lack of sharpness on this photo you would have to suggest they would need their eyes tested) ! For what it's worth I also have a Fuji GW690III and the results should be sharper than the original poster's first photo seemed (mind you it was hard to tell at that size). I use mine primarilly hand-held.
 
furcafe said:
FYI, the car shot is mathomas's, not the merrill's, & I think the shallow DoF was deliberate, or perhaps forced on him due to low light.
Click to expand...

Yes, mine, and yes the shallow DoF was both due to low light and to my preferences on this shot. The in-focus is super in-focus, though 🙂.
 
My rangefinder is out of alignment a bit and I find I need to stop down to f/8 to really keep things sharp and in focus. I don't even know where to send this thing to have it re-aligned.
 
Frank Marshman is the guy you want for your Fuji.
If you only need the RF adjusted, I would think that any number of competent techs should be able to do it.
Note the word competent.

btw, I used Bob Watkins for most of my RF needs.
 
t.s.k. said:
Frank Marshman is the guy you want for your Fuji.
If you only need the RF adjusted, I would think that any number of competent techs should be able to do it.
Note the word competent.

btw, I used Bob Watkins for most of my RF needs.
Click to expand...

The local tech is 'competent' but I'm always afraid he'll ruin something. I'll give frank a buzz. Thanks gang!
 
Fuji GW690 II

Thank you for all the helpful suggestions. I'll shoot the next roll using a tripod, take something with more definitive detail lines and post the results in due course.

In case there needs to be some realigning of the focus, can anyone recommend someone in Europe, preferably UK or ireland?

Thanks again

Merrill
 
Frank Marshman contact info....

Frank Marshman contact info....

Frank Marshman at Camera Wiz in Harrisonburg, VA is often mentioned on photo.net as an expert with Fuji rangefinders.

1-800-471-8133; 540-434-8133

I use the 540 AC number. You may find an e-mail somewhere on the internet for Frank. Don't waste your time.

Franks a great guy to talk to, knows the cameras (and many others). Has over 40 years experience and started Camera Wiz in 1993.

Fast, when he has the inventory in stock. The only time he ever took a long time on one of my cameras was when he had to find a new bellows supplier. Even then, he's done three GS645 bellows for me. I only buy GS645 cameras that need a bellows and I pay about $200. The bellows installed by Frank won't cost as much as the camera the way I buy them.

If you ever consider a GS645, buy it with bellows replacement in mind, or a documented recent replacement. There is just no way an original GS645 is surviving this long.

Anyway, here's Franks info.
 
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