So, wait... you are having the same issue with both the 35mm 1.4 and legacy lenses?
srtiwari
Daktari
No, not the same issue, I don't think.
I first received the camera, and the adapter, and when the pictures were not too crisp with the legacy lens (more than one, including the ZM 35/2.8 and the Summicron 50 (v3)), I noticed the focus discrepancy (Building 50 ft away, lens barrel shows about 15). This is clearly not right in itself, and needs to be remedied.
Whether or not Legacy lens are ok/good/great to use on these bodies, I don't know. But many people, I believe, feel the NEX-5N or GXR are better for this use. Unfortunately, I don't have either of them. Nevertheless, I had expected more of the lens/XE-1 combo. BTW, the lens do great on the M9, so I think they are fine.
The 35/1.4 arrived later, and is a different problem, in that it clearly mis-focuses, sometimes by a margin, and that may explain why its not sharp. Since I'm talking about AF, manual focusing error on my part is not even a consideration. In fact, I'm getting somewhat sharper images doing it manually with magnified focus peaking.
In any case, I've decided to swap the lens, and return the Metabones adapter. I'll probably order the Rayqual one from Stephen, since the main reason for my doing all this was to get a second body to my anticipated Digital M.
Are you using the OVF when this is happening or the EVF?
srtiwari
Daktari
There is no OVF on the XE-1
f16sunshine
Moderator
The 35 should focus pretty accurately although i get a few misses.
It does take some getting used to. If you are a long time RF user who is used to finding an "edge" to line up focus. The AF center square should be used similarly.
I'm guessing you are doing this so, if it's that out take it in and compare to another camera body and lens.
Also change the focus square size down to it's smallest (higher accuracy tolerance but maybe a bit slower).
Clik the AF button to bring up the focus point screen and then, use the horizontal thumbwheel to make the box smaller or larger.
Cheers!
GaryLH
Veteran
The legacy lens issue is definitely an adapter one.
The 35f1.4 on xe1 vs 23f2 x100s maybe due to several possibilities
- min. Shutter speed not high enough
- bad copy of 35 vs great copy of 23f2
- leaf shutter is not only dead quiet, but almost vibration free compared to any other shutter except an electronic one.
- shutter release location difference.. W/ some people slight variations an affect how well they do w/ their shutter release technique.
To c if u got a bad copy of the lens or as I think about it af mechanism is off
- take off any filter u may have on it
- put it on a tripod
- use a cable release
- use manual focus and take the picture
- while still in manual focus hit the ael/afl button to one shot af focus and take the picture
- use af normal and take the picture.
For min. Shutter try using full manual w/ auto iso and keep your f stop at like f4 for example and start at shutter speed that u normally use and go up until u hit iso 3200 or 6400.
Since the xe1 is pretty light, adding mass may help or a grip for the other possibilities.
I agree w/ the others the 35f1.4 is the best overall.
Another thing I just remember ... Check your raw developer settings for your x100s versus the xe1.. It could be xe1 is being developed incorrectly.
Good luck
Gary
The 35f1.4 on xe1 vs 23f2 x100s maybe due to several possibilities
- min. Shutter speed not high enough
- bad copy of 35 vs great copy of 23f2
- leaf shutter is not only dead quiet, but almost vibration free compared to any other shutter except an electronic one.
- shutter release location difference.. W/ some people slight variations an affect how well they do w/ their shutter release technique.
To c if u got a bad copy of the lens or as I think about it af mechanism is off
- take off any filter u may have on it
- put it on a tripod
- use a cable release
- use manual focus and take the picture
- while still in manual focus hit the ael/afl button to one shot af focus and take the picture
- use af normal and take the picture.
For min. Shutter try using full manual w/ auto iso and keep your f stop at like f4 for example and start at shutter speed that u normally use and go up until u hit iso 3200 or 6400.
Since the xe1 is pretty light, adding mass may help or a grip for the other possibilities.
I agree w/ the others the 35f1.4 is the best overall.
Another thing I just remember ... Check your raw developer settings for your x100s versus the xe1.. It could be xe1 is being developed incorrectly.
Good luck
Gary
srtiwari
Daktari
Gary, Thanks for a very constructive response.
I plan to follow your recommendations, and have a better idea over the weekend.
When you say the XE-1 may be developing incorrectly, do you mean in LR5 ? If so, I don't believe there is way to adjust that, AFAIK.
GaryLH
Veteran
Maybe try the raw to dng converter instead of lr5... Or download a free copy of capture one.
Good luck
Gary
willie_901
Veteran
diglloyd hates Fuji. What is the date of the report you read?
2WK
Rangefinder User
I think you might be having some problem with either the camera or lens. I have had an xe-1 and now an xpro and the iQ is amazing. You first post about not being equal to the x100s had me confused.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Keep the X100s. Get rid of all the other stuff.
gavinlg
Veteran
Yeah that guy really has a vendetta against the cameras. I wouldn't trust his opinion.
YYV_146
Well-known
If your xf35 is not outperforming the X100s lens, return it or send it to Fuji. It's a bad copy.
Adapters are important - make sure you get one with nice quality, those that don't reach infinity are essentially impossible to scale focus.
Adapters are important - make sure you get one with nice quality, those that don't reach infinity are essentially impossible to scale focus.
2WK
Rangefinder User
Really? Hmm I don't really want to pay him to read why...
It's funny, the other day I was at a dinner party, and this guy had the new Ricoh, and a sigma dp3. We got to talking about cameras and I mentioned I really like my xpro. Really? He said..."I find fuji sensors are just not up to my requirments." Later on in the evening he asked me if I read diglloyd.
GaryLH
Veteran
Really? Hmm I don't really want to pay him to read why...
It's funny, the other day I was at a dinner party, and this guy had the new Ricoh, and a sigma dp3. We got to talking about cameras and I mentioned I really like my xpro. Really? He said..."I find fuji sensors are just not up to my requirments." Later on in the evening he asked me if I read diglloyd.
Hmmm more dis-information vs real experience. There is a difference in iq between the foveon and the xtran. I not sure that there is enough of a difference in iq between a non-AA filtered Bayer vs xtran sensor to make a statement like that... Unless the guy is going by simply old info about the raw developers now vs back over a year ago. I don't read digiloyd website, but if he never updated his info about raw, then he is doing a disservice vs he has a vendetta, hmmmm..
Anyway this week I am going to have the Ricoh gr.. I will c for myself.
That all being said, a lot depends on your photographic needs and what u shoot. Given how good the digital technology is today, there are tons of cameras out there that are more then good enough. I have old digital cameras like my Sony r1 or Panasonic gf1 that I still use today. They were already good enough for my needs. I am just a gear hound and tech geek, so I am always interested in finding out about the latest gear.
Gary
Jdi
Established
When using AF, how large is your focus square? Is it fully on the image or covering 2 different distances?
It needs to be fully on what you want in focus. For day I use the smallest size, for night I increase it depending on the contrast I have to work with.