Huss
Veteran
dourbalistar
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Nice results with the N75, Huss! Did you shoot this at box speed, or with some added exposure compensation? I know the N75 automatically reads the DX code with no option to over-ride if you want to overexpose via the ISO settings.
dourbalistar
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Nikomat FTn, Nikkor-H Auto 50mm f/2 non-AI, Fujifilm Fujicolor 200.

2018.05.19 Roll #155-000919560004.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr

2018.05.19 Roll #155-000919560004.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
Huss
Veteran
Nice results with the N75, Huss! Did you shoot this at box speed, or with some added exposure compensation? I know the N75 automatically reads the DX code with no option to over-ride if you want to overexpose via the ISO settings.
Hmm, I think I shot it at +.5 using the exposure compensation setting.
It's a great little camera and stoooopid cheap!
Huss
Veteran
Nikomat FTn, Nikkor-H Auto 50mm f/2 non-AI, Fujifilm Fujicolor 200.
2018.05.19 Roll #155-000919560004.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
1st off, where is that ice cream shop?!
Love the skin tones. As long as you don't underexpose this film it really is great.
Jumillar
Never Settle
Tripping after Midnight
Tripping after Midnight
This reminds me of a night time experiment i tried in 2008 with an Olympus Trip 35 camera that i modified to work on Bulb only. Then in the middle of the night the camera was mounted on the dashboard of my van and the shutter was locked open with a cable as i drove round the Edinburgh City Bypass. I had no idea what, if anything would come out, but i think the effect was pretty psychedelic. I later tried the same thing with a Lomo LCA but the effect was nowhere as good as the Trip 35.
Olympus Trip 35 (modified) F16 @ 13mins exposure over a distance of 11 miles (approx)
Fujicolor C200 no flash.
Tripping after Midnight by john millar, on Flickr
Tripping after Midnight
This reminds me of a night time experiment i tried in 2008 with an Olympus Trip 35 camera that i modified to work on Bulb only. Then in the middle of the night the camera was mounted on the dashboard of my van and the shutter was locked open with a cable as i drove round the Edinburgh City Bypass. I had no idea what, if anything would come out, but i think the effect was pretty psychedelic. I later tried the same thing with a Lomo LCA but the effect was nowhere as good as the Trip 35.
Olympus Trip 35 (modified) F16 @ 13mins exposure over a distance of 11 miles (approx)
Fujicolor C200 no flash.

David Hughes
David Hughes
About 10 or 12 years ago I started getting rid of all my cameras and checking them before I sold them. I looked for a suitable film, as in cheap and good, because there were a lot of cameras to get sold and settled on C200 or Z200 as I've seen it. Since then I've been buying it by the brick and love it.
Here's a sample from 2011 using an Olympus µ-1.
Not one of my best but one of my favourites as I heard the thing coming and ran across a field and grabbed the shot.
Regards, David
Here's a sample from 2011 using an Olympus µ-1.

Not one of my best but one of my favourites as I heard the thing coming and ran across a field and grabbed the shot.
Regards, David
dourbalistar
Buy more film
1st off, where is that ice cream shop?!
Love the skin tones. As long as you don't underexpose this film it really is great.
Well, Flickr's geotagging feature is hamstrung right now, so it just shows "a mysterious place with no name" if you click through. But it's Calistoga Creamery in Calistoga, CA. They make organic ice cream and frozen yogurt. And as you can see from the upper right, they have freshly made waffle cones, too!
I agree with overexposing this film, perfect for sunny summer days in wine country.
dourbalistar
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Hmm, I think I shot it at +.5 using the exposure compensation setting.
It's a great little camera and stoooopid cheap!
Thanks! I have too many cameras as it is, but I must admit, the bargain bin prices for the N75 and N80 cameras are very tempting.
CharlesDAMorgan
Veteran
Using the 40mm Ultron f2 on my Nikon FE.

Geo Toreno
Well-known
I love film.
Leica M5. LTM Summicron 50mm f/2 Coll. Fujicolor C 200. Tetenal C41 kit. Epson 4990.
Leica M5. LTM Summicron 50mm f/2 Coll. Fujicolor C 200. Tetenal C41 kit. Epson 4990.

Ste_S
Well-known
My experience with underexposing C200 is similar. Shadows turn murky and grainy. Thankfully, I usually overexpose all my film by at least one stop either by setting the meter to ISO 100 or metering for the shadows (sometimes both).
What do people reckon the true ISO of C200 is ? The muddy shadows is always something that puts me off consumer C41
Jumillar
Never Settle
He Died for England
He Died for England
Still testing my Olympus 35RC, this is from the second role of film through the camera (first in colour).. The grave of American pilot Billy Fiske in The Priory Church of St Mary and St Blaise, Boxgrove, England
Olympus 35RC 30th sec @ f11
Fujicolor C200 (expired)
He Died for England by john millar, on Flickr
He Died for England
Still testing my Olympus 35RC, this is from the second role of film through the camera (first in colour).. The grave of American pilot Billy Fiske in The Priory Church of St Mary and St Blaise, Boxgrove, England
Olympus 35RC 30th sec @ f11
Fujicolor C200 (expired)

Huss
Veteran
What do people reckon the true ISO of C200 is ? The muddy shadows is always something that puts me off consumer C41
200. I just occasionally shoot at 150-ish because I like the brighter look.
200 has the look that Fuji intended.
I'm curious as to why so many people think that ISO ratings for film is 'incorrect'.
The mfgs who make the stuff know much more about what they are doing than end users! If this was a true 160 film, Fuji would label it as such.
What the end user can do is use that as a baseline, and then expose for their desired results.
jja
Well-known
Fantastic photos in this thread, glad I peaked in. Huss, are you using a local developer or sending the film out?
David Hughes
David Hughes
I'm not sure if that's passive aggressive sarcasm or not, but I removed the direct PDF link in my post above. Instead, here are links to Fujifilm's website, which has download links for Data & Spec Sheets and Manuals & Brochures.
https://www.fujifilmusa.com/support/ServiceSupportBrowse.do?prodcat=233844&sscucatid=664273
https://www.fujifilmusa.com/support...dcat=233844&sscucatid=664271&sscucatid=664272
You shouldn't have; FWIW, I was surprised Fuji included an exposure guide in what it clearly aimed at "pro" photographers. Obviously I'd expect it with (say) C200 but there isn't one with it.
FWIW(2), I'm not sure what "passive aggressive sarcasm" is but this is the internet after all's said and done and so I guess you miss my body language.
Regards, David
Huss
Veteran
Fantastic photos in this thread, glad I peaked in. Huss, are you using a local developer or sending the film out?
I’m using my local Samys to develop it, then I scan it with my camera and use negativelabpro.com to invert. That is the most crucial part to get great colour!
dourbalistar
Buy more film
You shouldn't have; FWIW, I was surprised Fuji included an exposure guide in what it clearly aimed at "pro" photographers. Obviously I'd expect it with (say) C200 but there isn't one with it.
FWIW(2), I'm not sure what "passive aggressive sarcasm" is but this is the internet after all's said and done and so I guess you miss my body language.
Regards, David
I mainly removed the (direct) PDF link because I realized that some people's browser may prompt an automatic download, which may are may not be welcomed. My browser (Chrome) opens it in a separate window in-browser, but I don't know about other browsers. The Professional Film Data Guide PDF brochure is still available for download if you so choose at the website I linked:
https://www.fujifilmusa.com/support...dcat=233844&sscucatid=664271&sscucatid=664272
In any case, you're right, tone is hard to interpret over the internet. Apologies for any offence taken where none was intended.
steve kessel
steve kessel

Just got one roll back today. Happy enough with this film. This one taken in foul wind. Will post more later.
brbo
Well-known
The mfgs who make the stuff know much more about what they are doing than end users! If this was a true 160 film, Fuji would label it as such.
I personally couldn't care less if it is a 160 or 200 speed film, but Fuji would have every reason to mark this film as 200 instead of 160. It's allowed by the standard and this is their cheapest consumer film, a film that will be used a lot in simple cameras (p&s with slow lenses) that will read the 160 DX code simply as 100 anyway (at best). Much better to lose 1/3 of a stop in shadow detail than to have less sharp pictures because of longer shutter time/wider aperture.
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