Fujifilm XT-1 Manual Focus?

[wjlapier]

I'm about to buy a Fujifilm XT-1 and maybe the kit lens. I have two Leica R lenses I might use on the XT-1 but it depends on how well you can focus these lenses. Depending on how easy it is to manual focus the R lenses will help determine if I purchase the kit lens or maybe the 23/2. Maybe 35/2. A lot of maybes and depends!

What has your experience been thus far? Not necessarily with R lenses.

FWIW, I have a R 35 Elmarit and R 50 cron, with R6 and R-E film bodies. These bodies and lenses and the XT-1 would be my shooting kit most of the time with an occasional GA645Zi thrown in from time to time.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Stefan Wood]

http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t10/shooting/manual-focus/index.html

My experience so far has been mixed. Using a 7artisans 25mm 1.8 lens, and it works, but trying to get a feel for zone focusing (which is what I like to do) has been difficult. Otherwise, I use focus peaking and that has worked out fine.

 

[Fjäll]

The Fujifilm X camera line up is fantastic. The XT-1 being my favourite. The manual focus with native lenses is by wire, nothing like real manual focus. The sole reson why I eventually opted out and went Leica. Fantastic lenses though! Personally don't fancy adapters either.

 

[f16sunshine]

I had good experience with Fast aperture mid 50mm and longer lenses. (wider lenses probably are fine I just did not bother with them)

The faster aperture lenses sure did reveal the exact focus point better than slower ones or, having lenses stopped down.
Focus at wide open and then stop down to desired aperture stop.

With an f2 or greater opening on a 50mm for example, one could see the focus roll through it's range as you turned the focus dial...
This was a very nice, very precise way to focus a lens manually.

For me turning off all focus aids and relying on the magnification button gave the best results using the evf.
The XT1 has a pretty fine resolution evf. I found it really easy to use even for Macro.
I found the focus peaking just dirtied the beautiful evf and was distracting.

The XT1 is very capable and at it's current price point a great value.
Good luck... You're in for a treat!

 

[wjlapier]

I have one foot in Sony. A6000 and 70-200 f/4. Just sold my 28/2 and still have SEL5018. I'm holding on to the Sony body and zoom to shoot my kid in HS track and XC and jazz band. If the XT-1 performed as well as the A6000 I'd make the full switch. Anyone who has used the A6000 and 70-200 for action knows what I mean.

But thanks for the feedback so far. I'm certain I'll buy the XT-1 new, but the AF lens I'm still not sure of yet.

Anyone shoot with the Zeiss Touit 32/1.8 on their XT-1? I loved that lens on the A6000.

 

[willie_901]

I'm about to buy a Fujifilm XT-1 and maybe the kit lens. I have two Leica R lenses I might use on the XT-1 but it depends on how well you can focus these lenses. Depending on how easy it is to manual focus the R lenses will help determine if I purchase the kit lens or maybe the 23/2. Maybe 35/2. A lot of maybes and depends!

...

The X-T1 has adequate MF focusing aids for adapted lenses. I think the X-Pro 2 is a much better adapted lens platform. I haven't used the X-T2, so I can't comment. I have never used one of the kit zooms either.

The most difficult situations for MF involve very low light levels (the EVF becomes noisy) and scenes lit by frequency-modulated light sources (fluorescent and some colored LEDs) where the EVF could strobe.

Here is a FUJIFILM web site that gives an overview of X-Series focusing modes.

AF with the 23/2 and 35/2 XF lenses is excellent. Even the fly-by-wire MF implementation is acceptable. The newest lenses with the newest bodies have the best AF performance. By contrast, the XF 35/1.4 on a X-Pro 1 is a very different experience. I used the 35/2 on the XT-1 and was very pleased with all aspects of this lens-body combination.

However, there is a learning curve to learn and enjoy the most efficient AF/MF parameters for different situations. People seem to have the most trouble figuring out how to use the AF-C mode to focus on subjects in motion.

 

[rybolt]

I use a mix of native Fuji AF lenses as well as adapted lenses with the XT1 cameras. I started with the X Pro 1 and the EVF was not accurate enough to give me good focus. The XT1 works perfectly for me with all of my adapted lens. I'm ashamed to admit that I am currently at about 30 lenses ranging in aperture from F1.2 to F5.6. I use Focus Peaking set to White. Others use the split image but I find that doesn't work as well for me.

As a separate recommendation; check out the setting for Preview Exposure In Manual. I shoot only full manual exposure and my experience is that the XT 1 EVF is so good that I eyeball the exposure in the EVF and pay no attention to the +/- scale.

 

[Out to Lunch]

The camera is great....focus peaking with mf lenses less so.

 

[AlexBG]

I have one foot in Sony. A6000 and 70-200 f/4. Just sold my 28/2 and still have SEL5018. I'm holding on to the Sony body and zoom to shoot my kid in HS track and XC and jazz band. If the XT-1 performed as well as the A6000 I'd make the full switch. Anyone who has used the A6000 and 70-200 for action knows what I mean.

But thanks for the feedback so far. I'm certain I'll buy the XT-1 new, but the AF lens I'm still not sure of yet.

Anyone shoot with the Zeiss Touit 32/1.8 on their XT-1? I loved that lens on the A6000.

I had an XT-1 after an A7 and used a canon FD 50 1.4 that I loved on my A7 on it and didn't like the results. I now have a A6000 so can compare the two. The problem with the XT-1 and manual focusing certain lenses is that the Fuji lenses are fantastic, the kit lens is amazing, you just have to look on an auction site and you'll see a lot of bodies for sale but none with the kit lens because people keep them, I loved the kit lens but usually hate them.

Having the viewfinder in the middle of the camera just seems more natural for manual focusing and the yellow/red colouring on the in focus areas was better on the Fuji than the Sony and there is also a focus assist button in the perfect place on the Fuji.

I solely shoot a 50mm or equivalent but when I sell the A6000 for another XT-1 I will get the kit lens and then the 35 1.4. If you are dead set on a certain focal length then get that lens, if not then start with the kit lens. Plus an adapter for your R lenses is about £5 from china so might as well give it a go.

 

[wjlapier]

I went ahead and purchased the XT-1 with the kit lens. I was aware of the kit lens performance, so I went with that lens first. I did try Fujifilm a while ago with the kit lens, the 23 and 35 f/2's. But I was kinda stuck with the Sony kit since the equivalent Fuji kit was too much money. I sold off some seldom used equipment and came up with the money to finally buy the XT-1 while keeping the A6000 and 70-200 f/4. If the 50-140 f/2.8 is a fast af lens, I might make the total switch over. Really depends on how the XT-1 performs compared to the A6000--autfocus speed in AFC mode.

 

[emayoh]

When using my Fujis I am 90% in manual focus with various classic lenses. I will share one tip for faster manually focusing with focus peaking -- you can set the color of the peaking to be red or blue, then set your fuji to shoot in one of the black&white film simulations. This can really help in seeing the focus peaks-- and the raw file will still be in color for you to process (either in camera after the fact or on your editing platform of choice) as normal.

Maybe this helps you, or annoys you. I hope for the helping 🙂

-Mick

 

[Darthfeeble]

Of the two methods to aid manual focusing, I prefer the Peak method. The split image method leaves a lot to desire. You will need to practice a bit with either of them to find the fine line between on focus and off.

 

[f16sunshine]

When using my Fujis I am 90% in manual focus with various classic lenses. I will share one tip for faster manually focusing with focus peaking -- you can set the color of the peaking to be red or blue, then set your fuji to shoot in one of the black&white film simulations. This can really help in seeing the focus peaks-- and the raw file will still be in color for you to process (either in camera after the fact or on your editing platform of choice) as normal.

Maybe this helps you, or annoys you. I hope for the helping 🙂

-Mick

Yes that works well.
This method works really well in mid to longer range and where focus is desired over a wider field... say a group portrait of people at a table or party.
It's a great focus method with the xt1 when doing a walk around with a legacy lens (street shooting etc).

I still find for the most critical focus, turning off all aids and relying on the highest magnification in the evf is most precise. Eliminate all other distractions.

 

[Jack Conrad]

I still find for the most critical focus, turning off all aids and relying on the highest magnification in the evf is most precise. Eliminate all other distractions.

Agree 100%. I don't bother with any of the other focus aids either.
They just get in the way. 🙂 Oh, and make sure the diopter is set to your eyesight. Manual focus is easy with the XT-1.
My only complaint is the focus mag button is hard to feel with my thumb. I think they corrected that with the XT-2.

 

[f16sunshine]

Jack,
I put dots of Sugru on the critical controls. It made a big difference in use.
Semi-permanent and very easy to do plus... inexpensive. (can be removed)

 

[MCTuomey]

My M glass produces smeary mid and far corners on my XT1. Focus peaking in lower light is not satisfactory for me. If I were buying an aps-c body for Leica glass, I’d consider the new CL. Not cheap but designed to use Leica TL, M, SL, and R glass.

 

[kyte]

Metallic lens adaptors can make your camera kit front heavy if you use heavier glass.

I use a (XF to Canon EF) focal reducer. Then R to EF ring. I think your R lenses should be OK.

 

[willie_901]

When using my Fujis I am 90% in manual focus with various classic lenses. I will share one tip for faster manually focusing with focus peaking -- you can set the color of the peaking to be red or blue, then set your fuji to shoot in one of the black&white film simulations. This can really help in seeing the focus peaks-- and the raw file will still be in color for you to process (either in camera after the fact or on your editing platform of choice) as normal.

Maybe this helps you, or annoys you. I hope for the helping 🙂

-Mick

This is a very helpful. Thanks.

 

[Kent]

I used to have the X-T1 (that had to go when the A7II arrived) and was very content with the results. Focus Peaking worked fine for me.

I second Andy's Sugru idea - works like a charm!

 

[wjlapier]

Should arrive today. I'll have to find an adapter for R lenses. So far I've been happy with the K&F adapters I've used on my A6000.

Thanks foe the tips on using the XT-1.