Full frame "look" alternatives for X Pro-1

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eleskin

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I am becoming fascinated with the adapters being made to reduce the lens magnification to project the proper angle of view for various legacy lenses. For me , short of buying an A7r, this may be the most cost effective way to get the look of full frame without upgrading to a larger sensor. It is too bad they cannot make an adapter for Leica M lenses (not enough room, but maybe it can be done for a Noctilux). At any rate, I purchased one of the cheaper Chinese made converters on Ebay for my Minolta lenses. I was considering the Novoflex, but the price was too high for me. I want an adapter more for a fast 50mm lens to use wide open to get the look of a full frame lens with great bokeh. I am after that full frame creamy bokeh look on my X Pro and I currently have a Minolta 50mm f1.4 and a 35mm f1.8, but I see all the rage is about the gorgeous 58mm f1.2. So any of you X Pro users here have the full frame adapters ? How do you like them? Anyone bought them for the specific purpose of using fast 50mm lenses to get a full frame look and wonderful bokeh?
 
GaryLH said:
My thought from a while ago.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135009

Kipon just starting selling their version as well. Metabones has been slowly adding adapters. They now have a Minolta md as well.

Gary
Click to expand...

That's quite a thread, Gary. I missed that because of spending all of August out trekking through the French Alps. Serious GAS-inducing stuff there!

Hey, eleskin, what's the going price these days on a MC 58/1.2 ?
 
That sounds like a ton of fun... No gas to worry about and plenty of good food when u are back in civilization.

Gary
 
58mm f1.2 MC prices

58mm f1.2 MC prices

Well, they are not exactly cheap. Some beaters are in the $300 or so and the mint lenses are between $490 and $600! The 58mm f1.2 MC is a great alternative to a Noctilux and with the adapter you get a full frame look with plenty of resolution with the X Trans sensor. For me, this is a way I can satisfy my craving for a A7r's full frame and get a similar look with my Fuji. One thing that bums me out is I have an extensive Leica M lens collection and it is too bad you cannot use a full frame correction adapter on the Fuji. I suspect they could make one for the lenses that do not go deep into the camera body like the telephotos, Summicrons and the Noctilux. There should be a way to make a slimmer optical arrangement that can fit inside an M adapter, but you could only use that for a VERY limited selection of M Lenses which I would be fine with.
 
An M to XF speed booster would be really really nice. I guess that if it were possible, we would have already seen one by now.

The prices on the Rokkor 58/1.2 are out of my budget, especially when you throw a speedbooster into the total cost. Would be fun, but f/1.4~5 does me fine.

I've had a lot of fun recently using the Nokton 35/1.2 on the XP1 with a Hawk's close focus adapter.
 
the cheapest way to get shallow dof is lens blur option in photoshop. in fact even if one shoots with noctilux people are just going to assume its photoshop lens blur.
 
Nope.. I haven't. Mainly because I have never been into specifics of dof type looks myself. If u google speedbooster I am sure someone out there has done this..

Gary
 
I don't understand what the "full frame look" is either. How does a 35mm lens on APSC differ from a 50 on full frame/speed booster besides having slightly deeper DOF?
 
Margu said:
the cheapest way to get shallow dof is lens blur option in photoshop. in fact even if one shoots with noctilux people are just going to assume its photoshop lens blur.
Click to expand...

I agree, add a little swirl and be smart about adding noise/grain.

Heck I had a Wet Plate group puzzling how I did a mock WP shot that was simply an iPhone filter but the old coots didn't look at the metadata until a week had gone by.
 
Frank Petronio said:
I agree, add a little swirl and be smart about adding noise/grain.

Heck I had a Wet Plate group puzzling how I did a mock WP shot that was simply an iPhone filter but the old coots didn't look at the metadata until a week had gone by.
Click to expand...

Frank, Frank, Frank, don't you know all wetplaters use the "lick test" to make sure a plate is real? Rather than making "it" easy, try it the other way. Shoot a wetplate that looks so good people will swear it's digital. Use an F0.95 wide open, but "fake" the depth of field in Photoshop so well, people will think you shot it with a stopped down 50/3.5 Elmar. To me, fakers are fake.
 
nongfuspring said:
I don't understand what the "full frame look" is either. How does a 35mm lens on APSC differ from a 50 on full frame/speed booster besides having slightly deeper DOF?
Click to expand...

I actually bought the speedbooster so that I could have an extra stop my 50f1.4 becomes a 50f1.0 and my 35f2 becomes a 35f1.4. My lovely seldom used 24-85f2.8-4 zoom is now a 24-85f2-2.8.

I have a lot of legacy Nikon slr lenses that were collecting dust since I have been shooting csc was my other main reason... Other aspects never entered into the equation for the reason I bought my speedbooster. For my type of photography, ff is not required, just more of a nice to have in terms of high iso... Other aspects that people are interested in, not my thing.

Gary
 
Margu said:
the cheapest way to get shallow dof is lens blur option in photoshop. in fact even if one shoots with noctilux people are just going to assume its photoshop lens blur.
Click to expand...

Perhaps, (prove it to me). And the cheapest way to own a Leica is to glue a red "Leica" dot on a $100 digital point and shoot. For that matter, the cheapest way to say you shoot Rangefinders, is to use your cell phone but lie about what you used when you post the pictures.
(Typed on a 1934 "Golden LUX" Rolls Royce typewriter on pure, virgin velum)
 
Margu said:
the cheapest way to get shallow dof is lens blur option in photoshop. in fact even if one shoots with noctilux people are just going to assume its photoshop lens blur.
Click to expand...

What people? Photo forum nerds? Regular people? Personally I never assume super shallow DoF is done with Photoshop. I can usually spot fakes. In my experience most people that would go to the lengths to fake a Noctilux look generally aren't good enough at editing to pull it off effectively.
 
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