G2 and 35-70mm, 21 mm

[lZr]

This morning I developed my first Fuji Superia 100 using G2 camera that I have the honor to test for a week.

Comming from MAX 7, it was not so easy to be accustomed with the cold viewfinder that only can tell me the distance for my focusing ideas. Knowing nothing about the DOF is terrible. But, then, the fast focus and click make my day.

The 35-70 is heavy to hold with the body and has nothing to show me more that I can see the SLR way. Moreover, my lower right corner was stollen by the the lens at 35 mm. The Zeiss Ikon results from my first try was not supperior to my MAX lenses, like the Minolta 24-105 (D).

OK, I understand that RF cameras are not for flowers and trees more then my SLR, so I must first make the switch in my head - I think I will.

Everything worked nice and fine and I am going to test the 21mm tommorow.

 

[jtzordon]

You've previously used the Maxxum 7 which is so highly spoken of? AF is faster on the G2? Sounds interesting!

 

[Doug]

Yes, you're discovering the different set of advantages and disadvantages that the "direct view" type cameras offer! It seems to me while the Contax G2 I think is among RF cameras, it is somewhere between the classic RF like Leica and and a modern auto-focus SLR.

 

[lZr]

To jtzordon:
I like my MAX 7, but some chipo lenses are very AF slow. I am familiar only with 35-70 and it is so beauty focusing with Single shot focusing mode. I like it, except its weight.

To Doug:
Yes, I think so. I already heard some people talking that G2 is not true RF.
Perhaps the idea is about the focusing method. Whilst most RF's focus using overlapped image, G2 is cold steady window. Do you think this is disvantage, or advantage?
On the other hand, RF framelines are distractive. G2 is lacking them and I like it.

I want the G2 for projects involving people. SLR cameras are too big for this mission. I need the small RF body, but G2 is not so small. I understand what is so wonderful about the 21, 35, 40, 50 and 90 mm prime lenses. They are lightweight and small. Very important issue in case you need fast reaction. Drawing the camera with the lens from the pocket and shooting is fantastic

 

[Doug]

I hope you have the opportunity to use just the 28, 35, or 45mm Contax lenses, since the camera with 35-70 would be a different experience I think! I have not seen one... From your words, I understand you are not very impressed with this zoom lens?

 

[lZr]

I am very bipartile. Nice piece of work, but heavy and big relative to the 21 mm. The last one must be focused using the camera viewfinder, whilst the composition using the specially supplied viewfinder on the hot shoe!? G2 is sophisticated 4 motors engine with limited human interface, regarding, presumable involved with its personal evolution in time.
The camera manual has nothing written about the 35-70, including the beautiful color addon. It takes time to internalize this special attitude.

Tomorrow I am going to break the rules and visit some known landscapes close to my home and shoot them 21 mm.

 

[Doug]

I think the G2 is a good choice for a 21mm lens... because you can leave the focusing and exposure up to the camera, and keep your eye on that external viewfinder! There is a chance, of course, of missing the camera's signal that it can't focus, but in general it seems to work well. Tomorrow, with that 21mm, please be sure to get close to some part of the scene, to avoid a common failure with superwide lenses where everything looks tiny and boring. Fill the frame with interesting things, then show us the pictures! 🙂

Not a great landscape, but here's one of mine with 21mm Biogon-G... this is the Columbia River flowing south.

 

[lZr]

Nice scape. The B&W choice is interesting. I expect some beauty like the one attached. Maxxum 7 and Astia 100 slide with chipo Minolta 75-300 mm at 300 mm.
'1/250 f/11. Open car's window and camera on the frame.
Thanks about the idea to leave the camera decide for the focus.

 

[Jarvis]

I must admit, useually colour pictures would/could be nice if it wasn't for these distractive colours .... but few, very few do come across beautifully.
As for the G2, had one for years, great camera the best thing being the 21 lens. I had the zoom for a while, isn't my thing.... but then who am I to judge, The best series of pictures I ever made, well some off the best, were Contax G2, 21mm with Efke 25 developed in Neofin Blue .... I have yet to see a camera/lens combo that Efke 25 absolutely come to life, and by all means Efke 25 is a great film with any camera ....
I sold my G2 set and although I have no remorse I do sometimes wish I still have it. But beggars can't be choosers it is either one or the other, and I made my choice .....

Anyway IZr, welcome....

 

[Doug]

Nice tidy landscape, IZr; well-seen! Sort of an art-deco look, I think...

 

[lZr]

Thanks Jarves and Doug.
I was given the choice:
G1 with 28,.....90 kit or
G2 with 21, 35-70.
But if I take the G2, I must buy the 35-70, because G1 is helpless with the zoom
G1 is not upgraded camera.
May be G1 and 21mm lens can do my decision?
Also, I must understand what exactly I can do with the G2 that I can't with MAX 7 and v.v.
For instance, I use 17-35/2.8-4 Sigma lens on MAX 7, that distorts the corners and frame borders consistently at 17 mm. Chipo lens, relative to the same Minolta lens.
I expect great performance from the G2's 21 mm.

 

[Socke]

Oh! Hard decision. For my liking the 28 - 90 combo is too far apart and the 35-70 Zoom is too slow.
So I'd go for the G2 combo and sell the 35-70 zoom to finance a 35 and 90mm.

 

[Bob Michaels]

If you tend to shoot fast (as I do) try the 21mm Biogon at f8 with the focus manually set at 3 meters. It's like having an AF system that you know will be spot on 100.00% of the time. Only then can you use the aux finder totally without having to revert back to the built in finder to check focus.

That's the way I use my 21mm 99% of the time. .

 

[lZr]

Thanks Socke And Bob.
Yes Socke, I'll try the G1 with 21 mm lens too.
I think Bob is talking Street Photography. Smart setup.
Again, my lower right corner stollen by the 21 mm.
Drawing conclusion:
G2 is not for exact composition, but for photog with experience.

 

[Doug]

G2 has many small improvements... I originally bought an upgraded G1 (and just the 21mm, what a glorious lens!) but it had film wind trouble so I returned it. Upon study, I chose to get the G2 instead of a different G1. The disadvantages of the G2 are higher cost and larger size and weight. I liked the smaller size of the G1...

The upgrade for the G1 allowed compatibility with the two new lenses introduced with the G2, the 21 and 35mm lenses. A G1 without the ROM upgrade can't use either of these lenses, and I'm pretty sure but not 100% positive that even an upgraded G1 cannot use the zoom, which was introduced later. Also, the Contax zoom claims less than 0.5% distortion, scarcely noticeable, surely much less than what you've observed in the Sigma!

If you try to use the 21mm Biogon (or the 35mm) with the G1, I think the camera will not be able to focus it. And I'll venture a guess that focusing manually won't work either because the distance scale in the viewfinder is electronically reported... and this camera's ROM doesn't have info on how to focus a 21 or 35.

You might want to make sure of the upgrade status of that G1... You can tell by looking at the sticker in the film-cartridge chamber. If the info sticker is silver color, it's not had the upgrade. If the sticker is green, it has been upgraded.

I think you're right, IZr, that the G2 is not for exact composition, and this is typical for RF cameras. But it's better than the G1 in this detail... For parallax compensation the G1 automatically shifts the frame on the left and top of the viewfinder window as the lens is focused closer. As these frame segments move down and toward the right, the user must mentally add the parts of the scene that are gained at the lower right. The G2 moves the entire frame mask, top, bottom, left and right. Therefore, you see a more accurate presentation. The G2 also has a larger and brighter viewfinder than the G1.

For this and a myriad of other small reasons, the G1 sells for about half the cost of a G2!

 

[lZr]

Thanks Doug,

I know that from the manual (I am RTM (Read The Manual)) user. Also, from the diagrams I know where the crop will happen (usually at the top) in spirit of the lens alignment relative to the viewfinder. But was never told that the lower right corner is not mine.

Today were 35 degree Celsius and dry weather and I postponed my session, so I will go out tomorrow morning at 6 o'clock to shot the 21 mm. I expect after harvest condition for my landscape if I go north, or sand dunes if I go south. The sun will be at 90 degree to me. Will decide in the morning according to the weather what direction to drive.
Fuji Superia 400 ASA and Sensia 100 ASA planned. Next step - TMAX 3200 ASA at dawn self development.

 

[Socke]

For whats it worth, here are some shots with the Sonnar 90 wide open on Tri-X pushed to ISO1600

 

[lZr]

I like the first, because the vertical orientation. Are they self developed?

 

[Socke]

Yes, my first try on pushing Tri-X.

I developed in Amaloco AM74 1+7.

The unsharpness may be due to handshake. I did that under a mixture of artificial and natural light with 1/30 seconds which is a bit optimistic for a 90mm lens ;-)

 

[lZr]

Nice. I am my son dependent for TMAX developing in Kodak liquids. He is 3-rd year Chemistry Engineering student and does the job very pro. For some time in the near future I will switch totaly to B&W for my projects.