Getting back into film developing - need suggestions

It looks like this is now a reality and not just a thought. I got back the 2 rolls of Tmax that I shot this weekend; 1 of each to a separate lab. Now that I have calmed down, I can explain.

Both labs said they used D-76 and where good with scanning - my hopes where dashed.

Lab #1 did a good job with the development, but cannot scan to save their lives.

Lab #2 almost caused me to go "postal". I spoke with the lab’s owner last week to get an understanding of their method. “Oh yes, D-76 is a specialty and we use it all the time. I have years of experience with it. I use a Cool Scan 9000.” I dropped off the film Monday and on Tuesday I found out that the “tech” that took my film did the development in “the machine”, did not really understand D-76 and did not use the Cool Scan.

I have one more lab to go; they use Xtol and a Durst scanner. This time, I am going to shoot Acros, both 35mm and 120.

If they fail…time to buy reels and chemicals…and a Canon Scan 9000.
 
raytoei@gmail.com said:
keith,

thanks for the comments. I totally agree with you. I think Rodinal is best with Slow emulsions and an emergency backup. But the grains are huge compared to most developers.

raytoei
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Yes, the grain will be a bit larger with Rodinal- but not that much, if it's used correctly. First, don't bother with the 1:25 dilution- 1:50 or higher shows finer grain and better tonality (longer range); plus it can have nice edge effects.

Second, with regards to grain: bear in mind that grain and sharpness have a fairly inversely proportional relationship. If you want the finest grained images with tradition B&W film, you will sacrifice some sharpness. Similarly, if you want incredible sharpness, you'll need to see some grain- not that it has to be huge, but you will see it. Shoot some medium to slow speed film, give it generous exposure, and process in Rodinal, diluted 1:50 with pretty minimal agitation and take a look at the results. Done correctly, you'll get very sharp negatives with some visible grain- and beautiful tonality over a very long range, with good detail way down into dark shadows and way up into bright highlights. Print these carefully, and you can get stunning results. I don't really share images electronically, (I'm not great at digital, and I much prefer to show real silver prints), but anyone in the area of Louisville, KY is more than welcome to drop by my studio. I'm always happy to show prints. I have some 20x24 inch prints shot on 35mm film and processed in Rodinal that look really good, even printed that large.
 
Its threads like this that make me glad I am a member on this forum. I'm about to start to develop my own film soon. this thread has saved me tons of hair pulling. that is until I set out trying to make my negatives scanner friendly =p
 
I started developing my own bw a little over a year ago. I, too, started w/ Diafine, to keep things simple, but quickly gravitated to Rodinal and have stuck w/ that, w/ occasional excursions to HC110. I think Rodinal is great, but then I mostly shoot film like Tri-X and TMax which work well in it. I use Ilford fixer, ordinary tap water as a stop bath, and Ilford's version of photoflo.

I also started w/ Patterson tanks and reels, and have stuck w/ them. I do have some SS reels and an SS tank, but need to practice loading them before I decide whether to switch. Nothing the matter w/ Patterson reels so long as you clean them thoroughly after each use.
 
drewbarb said:
Yes, the grain will be a bit larger with Rodinal- but not that much, if it's used correctly. First, don't bother with the 1:25 dilution- 1:50 or higher shows finer grain and better tonality (longer range); plus it can have nice edge effects.

Second, with regards to grain: bear in mind that grain and sharpness have a fairly inversely proportional relationship. If you want the finest grained images with tradition B&W film, you will sacrifice some sharpness. Similarly, if you want incredible sharpness, you'll need to see some grain- not that it has to be huge, but you will see it. Shoot some medium to slow speed film, give it generous exposure, and process in Rodinal, diluted 1:50 with pretty minimal agitation and take a look at the results. Done correctly, you'll get very sharp negatives with some visible grain- and beautiful tonality over a very long range, with good detail way down into dark shadows and way up into bright highlights. Print these carefully, and you can get stunning results. I don't really share images electronically, (I'm not great at digital, and I much prefer to show real silver prints), but anyone in the area of Louisville, KY is more than welcome to drop by my studio. I'm always happy to show prints. I have some 20x24 inch prints shot on 35mm film and processed in Rodinal that look really good, even printed that large.
Click to expand...

This is excellent advice. Tri-X shot at iso 250, or TMax 100 shot at iso 50, and developed in Rodinal 1:50, can look gorgeous. I do 30 seconds initial agitation, and then a couple of inversions every 2 or 3 minutes depending on film and total dev time. If you're getting back into a hybrid analog/digital workflow, you can get pretty good results w/ an Epson V500 or V700 flatbed scanner for less $$ than a Coolscan.
 
So...a couple of questions.

Is there a very good book (text) out there that I can purchase as a developing bible? I remember how to develop, but I would like get some insight into times, push / pull.

I remember how to use the SS reels and feel I could load them again...quickly, but can someone explain the Patterson reels to me? I have gathered that they are "idiot" proof, but how?

Is a one-shot developer worth it? If so, which one(s)?
 
Kaiyen, an RFF member, has an excellent film developing Wiki here: http://photos.kaiyen.com/pmwiki/pmwiki.php I've used this for the basics. For a starting point on dev times for specific film/developer combinations, google "Massive Development Chart" (also available in a very handy iPhone ap).

Patterson reels are plastic, and are loaded from the outside in rather than the inside out as w/ SS reels. I wouldn't say they're "idiot proof," but w/ a little practice they're pretty easy to load. You rotate the two outer rings back and forth, and the film is drawn into the reels via two very small ball bearings. Hard to describe in text, but there are some YouTube videos that show you how to load film on to them.

Rodinal and HC110 are both one-shot developers, meaning you mix up just enough to develop your film and dump when done. Diafine, in contrast, can be re-used many times. Whether Rodinal or HC110 are worth it is partly an aesthetic judgment, although neither developer is that expensive. They both keep very well. I can't speak to D76 or xtol as I've used neither, although I believe they are one-shot developers too.
 
James,
Go for it!
It's not that difficult. You can read the posts in this forum forever looking for the shining path and the information overload leads inevitably to that old golfer's adage"analysis leads to paralysis". Find a tank and reel, any tank and reel, burn a roll of unexposed film and practice loading the reel with your eyes closed. Now here is the part no one mentions; with one of those slick gadgets (leader retriever) you can pull the 35mm leader out like it was new, and you can start it into the reel IN THE LIGHT! Then go in the bathroom, turn out the light, and wind the rest onto the reel like you practiced over and over in front of the TV while you watched whatever you watch, don't forget to take scissors in there. Put it in the tank, screw the top on and...turn on the light, you are ready to develop!
Step 2; Pick a developer, any developer, write out on a couple sheets of paper the specific steps in the developing process. You are going to tape these on the wall above your developing area. Get an easy to see and easy to use and reset timer (I use a freeware one on my laptop). Pre measure out all your liquids in clearly marked containers (find plenty of cheap plastic containers with metric markings at Goodwill). Have some binder clips ready for hanging your film and have a hook somewhere in the shower to hang the film on.

Step 3; If you think you have some exposed film with the best stuff you'll ever shoot, don't try to develop that. Take some film you shot last week at the Piggly Wiggly when you went for more beer at 1AM. Trust all the preparation you did to get to this point, follow the steps your laid out, and go for it!

Step 4; Keep detailed notes about what you used, dilutions, times, and camera and film type etc.

Step 5; Don't get discouraged if you don't get the probably unrealistic results you hoped for. If you have a developed negative that has contrast and well defined images you are on your way! The high you will get from seeing those first images, however rudimentary, will give you a wonderful sense of accomplishment. The great thing about shooting and developing film is that it is easily learned but takes a lifetime of devotion to master. That said it seems to be much too hard for 99.9% of the population to attempt, so you have joined a pretty exclusive club.
Now you can spend many enjoyable hours perfecting your craft.

Michael
 
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