getting into the Olympus OM system

thanks everybody for the detailed answers. I will probably go for an OM 1 or 2, though I'm not sure what's the real difference between them.
 
To the OP, type 'olympus esif' into google search and open the first entry. That is the 'unofficial olympus electronic sales information file' and contains a massive amount of information about the whole OM system, and it is easy to navigate. Have fun.
 
thanks everybody for the detailed answers. I will probably go for an OM 1 or 2, though I'm not sure what's the real difference between them.

OM-1 takes mercury batteries - no longer available. No auto-exposure. Count on using it as a meterless camera.

OM-2 takes SR44 batteries (and make sure you get the silver-oxide version) and has an auto-exposure (aperture-priority) setting as well as metered manual settings.

See this web site for OM system information.

If you can find a lens in it original case you might get the original metal lens hood too. I have the 28/3.5 and like it - very sharp resolution and much less expensive too. A great starter kit. I'd also back the recommendation for the OM-10, which also takes the readily-available SR44 batteries and has auto-exposure; in fact it needs the optional manual adapter to give you metered manual settings.
 
Wow! Someone else likes the OM10; we should form a club...

As for the OM2n (and perhaps the OM2) they often turn up cheaply as people think they are faulty. When the battery dies or there's not one in the camera and it's wound on, the mirror locks up. Then they sell it as faulty, even dealers do (HA HA).

The cure is to turn the meter switch to "Check - Reset" and down comes the mirror. It's best done after your offer for the camera has been accepted.

Regards, David
 
The joy of the OM system is that the cameras and lenses are very small, beautifully designed and generally solidly built, and that they are available now, used, for remarkably little money. They won't take better pictures than other cameras (they won't be worse either) but you get a lot of capability for your cash. The used prices are an absolute steal.
 
Oh, and don't dismiss OM2000.
Yes, it's not made by Olympus, but it takes any Zuiko lenses you have.
 
Here's a Caveat for you....

Here's a Caveat for you....

Long with all the good posts and glowing reports on the OM camera's (and I have five, plus a good supply of lenses) there is one issue that I have experienced more than once.

DO NOT USE the self timer if you buy used and no idea of any CLA history. I have fallen to that evil on a couple of OM bodies, jamming them with an incomplete self timer cycle to the point of needing service.

In fact, unless I plan on a CLA for any old camera, folder, rangefinder, and SLR, I never use the self timer.
Just not a good idea, and are you really ever going to use it? I mean, come on. How many times have you ever set the timer and run to be in the picture with your family. Worst feature ever on any camera.
 
Three OM10s here, plus one manual adapter

Three OM10s here, plus one manual adapter

I like my OM10 too !

Ronnie (it's my only working OM)

The good things about the OM10:
1) take all the OM lenses and some other accessories
2) dirt cheap and usually good condition
3) manual adapter plugs into body so one adapter works for many bodies.
4) contemporary batteries (radio shack at the very least)

I'm a sucker for a nice OM10 for $15-20 dollars on eBay.
 
Another plus for the OM system -

Great service at reasonable prices from Jon Hermanson in New York.

Click on the Camtech site: www.ziuko.com

John doesn't just do a CLA, he rebuilds these little jewels!

(And updates the electronics on the early models.)

All for less than you would think.

Rick - No connection, other than a satisfied customer of his.
 
My advice is a little different from what you read above.

Since you are deciding pro or con rangefinder, make it really hard on them Leicas:

1) Get one or two OM1[n] bodies, make sure there is no prism foam. Some OM1 bodies come without, the others need it removed. You can DIY or ask John in the context of a CLA. Don't penny-pinch on the cameras, for a clean body you can budget US 150 or so.

2) get a late 28/2 and > 1.1Mio serial 50/1.4. Maybe an 85/2 or Vivitar series 1 90/2.5 if you want a tele.

Without the tele, this will run you around 7-800 bucks total, but give you a kit that can easily keep up with an equivalent > US 3k Leica kit in practical use. The while kit will be cheaper than a single ZM 28/2.8 for instance .... (you asked related questions in another thread).

Roland.
 
I use an OM-2n (when I'm not using a Minolta). I just picked up two 90mm 2.8 Panagor Macro's! I'm keeping one!

The function of the OM-2n is a delight. The size and weight is very nice. 28mm and 50mm lenses are small and good. 35mm lenses are a waste of time except a few zooms (Tokina actually makes a good one I've looked through). The 200mm f4 is cheap and good. Overall inexpensive and a pleasure to use.

The controls are really nice. I love the exposure compensation wheel because one it isn't locked, two it tells you in the viewfinder if it isn't set at 0. DOF preview button is easy to find with your hand. The only thing they lack is aperture display in the viewfinder.

One day I might own an OM-4/T/Ti just because of the spot meter and higher shutter speed.
 
I like the OM10 too. I currently have 2 working and one for parts. I've given away 4 OM10's with cases and lenses to relatives and they were all like new.

Just last weekend I shot a roll of Kodacolor Gold 400 in an OM10.

Great little cameras just advance the film gently and don't use a power winder on them since their transport gears won't hold up.
 
I like the OM10 too. I currently have 2 working and one for parts. I've given away 4 OM10's with cases and lenses to relatives and they were all like new.

Just last weekend I shot a roll of Kodacolor Gold 400 in an OM10.

Great little cameras just advance the film gently and don't use a power winder on them since their transport gears won't hold up.

I have a Winder 2 on mine all the time. Maybe I should get a single digit OM just for the winder. :)

Ronnie
 
Gee thank you very much everyone for the thoughtful advice. Roland, thanks a lot! Truth be told, I think the best photos I did were with some Zenit russian SLR I inherited... So yeah, there's no need for ZMs, no doubt about that, but RFs are freaking cool, what can I say - I would go for the Ultron 28/2, but it's too long and the 28/3.5 didn't really convince for color.
 
Start with OM-1, 1N, 2 or 2N. Avoid cheaper models (designed without input of Maitani) like OM-10, G, 20. OM-10 especially has huge exposure issues, not worth the trouble. Plastic top and bottom, plastic shutter curtain shafts. Single digit OM! That's the way to go. (and the question was "I want to get into the OM system" answer is not "buy into the nikon system"). ;-) John
 
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