msbarnes
Well-known
I had to make a small repair on my TLR and now I need to glue the leatherette back onto the knob.
Can I just dab superglue on it or is there a "better" glue out there? One that is more appropriate. Is it important to clean the residue on the metal?
This is probably very basic but I don't want to do a poor job and lose a piece of leatherette on the field.
Can I just dab superglue on it or is there a "better" glue out there? One that is more appropriate. Is it important to clean the residue on the metal?
This is probably very basic but I don't want to do a poor job and lose a piece of leatherette on the field.
3rdtrick
Well-known
I usually use contact cement because it is removable and holds well. Apply to both pieces and let dry until tacky then put them together. Don't worry about the residue as long as it is smooth and will not show through the leatherette.
Pete
Pete
Vickko
Veteran
Yep, contact cement, as 3rdtrick said. The gold-standard is "Pliobond". Apply to both surfaces, let it almost dry, and then press it together.
The reason for "almost dry" is so that you can do fine adjustment of the placement.
The reason for "almost dry" is so that you can do fine adjustment of the placement.
Brian Legge
Veteran
I use Pliobond as well. No problems with it so far.
enero
Killer of Threads
If you don't trust yourself with using contact cement or just want a cleaner alternative, double sided tape (the wide super thin industrial strength stuff) is also great to use. 3M makes a good one and you can get it at most Staples or artist supply stores. Pretty much the same as contact cement without all the fuss. I use it on most non-self adhesive leatherette jobs. Just put it on the back of the leatherette and then cut to size. After applying to the part, just make sure to rub it down smoothly and evenly so that it has a good bond to the leatherette.
It's generally better to avoid using superglue anywhere near optics whenever possible and then only when absolutely necessary and not in direct proximity to lenses, prisms, etc due to the gas emitted. Quite apart from this if a cyanoacrylate was used you would never get the leatherette off again without destroying it. Contact adhesive, as has already been mentioned, is the way to go. It will do the job just fine and, if it is necessary to remove the leatherette for future servicing, providing care is used, it should be possible to do this without harming it.
Cheers
Brett
Dan Daniel
Well-known
I've had good luck using shellac, which is what Rollei used for original application I believe. I've used it repeatedly for Yashica-Mat coverings, for example. Also either white glue or wood glue, especially for small bits. Any extra of these three that oozes out can be scraped away with a fingernail or toothpick when it dries. Removable, reversible.
I have had old leatherette that was curled and needed contact cement. If you can't find Pliobond, try Barge cement.
Scraping away the old cement and such is good. Both for a good bond and to avoid bumps from the uneven surface. A small flat-bladed screwdriver is good enough for lightly removing the old materials. Then again, if the original material de-laminated, leaving a section pulled away from the leatherette stuck to the camera, removing it can cause the leatherette to be depressed in that area. I'll leave the piece in place.This is where I've found shellac or glue especially helpful since they don't aggressively attack the materials.
I have had old leatherette that was curled and needed contact cement. If you can't find Pliobond, try Barge cement.
Scraping away the old cement and such is good. Both for a good bond and to avoid bumps from the uneven surface. A small flat-bladed screwdriver is good enough for lightly removing the old materials. Then again, if the original material de-laminated, leaving a section pulled away from the leatherette stuck to the camera, removing it can cause the leatherette to be depressed in that area. I'll leave the piece in place.This is where I've found shellac or glue especially helpful since they don't aggressively attack the materials.
mikemc_photo
Established
Very correct "old School" But that was factory in the 60's Until pliobond came along. You would thin orange shellac with alcohol...soak the trim and soften and lift..Leather dye would reblacken if needed
Bill58
Native Texan
Don't use anything else!
pete hogan
Well-known
True. Had it happen with an old small can of shellac stored inside a vintage fishing tackle box, a real mess.
Frontman
Well-known
I use G17 contact cement (popular in Japan). It bonds well, is flexible, and can be removed easily with ordinary paint thinner. It is commonly used by camera repair people here in Tokyo.
When using contact cement (or anything else) make sure the bonding surfaces are clean. Lacquer thinner works well. Apply the glue very thinly, and wait a few minutes for it to glaze over before attaching the leatherette. Most people use far too much glue, and it squeezes out around the edges when attaching whatever is being glued. Less is better.
When using contact cement (or anything else) make sure the bonding surfaces are clean. Lacquer thinner works well. Apply the glue very thinly, and wait a few minutes for it to glaze over before attaching the leatherette. Most people use far too much glue, and it squeezes out around the edges when attaching whatever is being glued. Less is better.
ASA 32
Well-known
Pliobond for reattaching leatherette Pentax 67II?
Pliobond for reattaching leatherette Pentax 67II?
I want to re-mount the strips of leatherette, one each side of the lens mount, on my Pentax 67 II. I'm thinking of using Pliobond, but I'm unsure if it is safe for the plastic surface of the camera. Also are there different grades of Pliobond, and if so, is there one that is best suited?
Thanks for any suggestions or hints.
Pliobond for reattaching leatherette Pentax 67II?
I want to re-mount the strips of leatherette, one each side of the lens mount, on my Pentax 67 II. I'm thinking of using Pliobond, but I'm unsure if it is safe for the plastic surface of the camera. Also are there different grades of Pliobond, and if so, is there one that is best suited?
Thanks for any suggestions or hints.
R
rick oleson
Guest
It depends on what kind of plastic you've got, and I'm not sure what you have in the Pentax. The solvents in contact cement (Pliobond and others) might soften the surface of some plastics, it will be safe with others. If you're in doubt, a pressure-sensitive peel-and-stick adhesive will give performance similar to contact cement without the chemical solvents.
CMur12
Veteran
Does one need to clean the glue residue off the leather, also, and, if so, how does one do this safely? Could acetone be used to remove glue from the metal back?
Thanks.
- Murray
Thanks.
- Murray
ASA 32
Well-known
Thanks for your reply. The pressure-sensitive adhesive sounds like a good alternative, but something I'm not familiar with. Is there a brand you can recommend? Thank you.
_goodtimez
Well-known
I have used contact glue (Pattex for example) and it does marvels. This is the type of glue you apply to both parts (leatherette and body), let it cure for 5mn and then stick it.
It's flexible and removing the excess is very easy: just rub it off with your fingers once dry.
R
rick oleson
Guest
3M makes good stuff. Are you in the United States? If so, here's a place to get it from online (not sure if they'll ship outside the US):
http://www.mcmaster.com/#adhesive-transfer-tape/=10spt9r
The #465 stuff works well for leatherette, even for shutter curtains in a pinch. Comes on a 60 yard roll, so you probably don't want to get the widest choice unless you plan on living a very long time.