Mikey_Rotten
Established
So Im going to go to do some treet photography for the first time at my homeplace Kokkola Finland (population about 50.000) and maybe do somekind of a slideshow from those photos to youtube.
I have planned to do my shoots at sunrise. Film Im going to use is 5x Kodak Tmax 400's
But what RF should I pick? I have stripped down these options:
Canonet QL 17
Minolta Hi-Matic 7s
Yashica Electro 35 GTN
Yashica Minister 700

ps. sorry for my bad english!
I have planned to do my shoots at sunrise. Film Im going to use is 5x Kodak Tmax 400's
But what RF should I pick? I have stripped down these options:
Canonet QL 17
Minolta Hi-Matic 7s
Yashica Electro 35 GTN
Yashica Minister 700
ps. sorry for my bad english!
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Whichever one you're most comfortable with.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
FrankS
Registered User
Good luck with your project!
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
They're all fine cameras, no sweat there.
I'd pick the widest lens, because it provides more Depth of Focus and prevents focusing errors.
Simple tricks: if you set the lens to a distance which is 100 times longer than the focal length of the used lens, the size of the scene will be 100 times bigger than the negative: (negative 36mm x 24mm) x100 = (scene 3.6mtrs x 2.4mtrs)
In general, that will cover most if not all people from head to toe easily. And using a smaller aperture will provide depth of focus from approx. 2 to 5 mtrs, the distance that you can take peoples picture without 'being in their space' and annoying them.
Trick #2: remember to try and keep shutter at or above 1/60th when someone approaches straight on, at or above 1/125th when someone crosses diagonally and at or above 1/250th when someone crosses at 90º angle, to avoid motion blur.
Have fun, most of all!
I'd pick the widest lens, because it provides more Depth of Focus and prevents focusing errors.
Simple tricks: if you set the lens to a distance which is 100 times longer than the focal length of the used lens, the size of the scene will be 100 times bigger than the negative: (negative 36mm x 24mm) x100 = (scene 3.6mtrs x 2.4mtrs)
In general, that will cover most if not all people from head to toe easily. And using a smaller aperture will provide depth of focus from approx. 2 to 5 mtrs, the distance that you can take peoples picture without 'being in their space' and annoying them.
Trick #2: remember to try and keep shutter at or above 1/60th when someone approaches straight on, at or above 1/125th when someone crosses diagonally and at or above 1/250th when someone crosses at 90º angle, to avoid motion blur.
Have fun, most of all!
Last edited:
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
I'd be more worried about which streets than which camera.
Sorry, but it's a bit like going on to write a thesis, and asking which pen or keyboard to use. Really: whichever you're most comfortable using for what you want to do
Sorry, but it's a bit like going on to write a thesis, and asking which pen or keyboard to use. Really: whichever you're most comfortable using for what you want to do
haempe
Well-known
You planning a slideshow on youtube before you shot any picture?
That's self-confidence!
But anyway, good luck.
That's self-confidence!
But anyway, good luck.
Tompas
Wannabe Künstler
Where I live, there is noone on the streets at sunrise... 
Use the camera you're most comfortable with.
Use the camera you're most comfortable with.
efirmage
Established
I'd go with the Yashica, such a fun camera.
Gereonb
Gereonb
The problem with the Electro35 is that it takes too long to setup a shot, the ergonomics and viewfinder are not really handy for snapshots, i'd go with the canon.
gho
Well-known
Does not really matter. Take the one that you feel most comfortable with. Or take all four and forget about shooting. ;-)
redisburning
Well-known
missed focus? bokeh
motion blur? bure
hurridly framed way off kilter? are
these are your three magic words lol
just shoot anything that interests you. I find hard light works better for b&w personally and prefer to shoot at lunchtime but that's me. hard to get the high level of contrast I like for it in the soft morning light.
motion blur? bure
hurridly framed way off kilter? are
these are your three magic words lol
just shoot anything that interests you. I find hard light works better for b&w personally and prefer to shoot at lunchtime but that's me. hard to get the high level of contrast I like for it in the soft morning light.
DamenS
Well-known
Whichever has the best high ISO
(sorry - couldn't resist ....)
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