kuzano
Veteran
batteries, covers, and such
batteries, covers, and such
I've had two supers and one super speed that worked properly. The batteries are 22.5 volts each, and I last heard they were still available at Midwest Photo Exchange. I seem to recall that I once bought a battery cover from MPEX. I did also have one camera with a homemade battery cover. Not a difficult feat once you know how they attach.
The difference between a Super and a Super Speed is the special shutter on the front of the Super Speed with a big chrome cocking (charging) ring and rodenstock 135mm lens. These shutters were rated up to 1/1000, but it was often said that the highest real-time speed was very likely 1/800th on a properly serviced shutter. The shutter blades, according to some, are too large to reallly attain 1/1000.
The Super (not speed) usually had an Ektar 127 or an Optar 135 in a Graphex shutter rated up to 1/400th /4.7.
A proper front lens/board/cam arrangement would be a lens/shutter in one of the variations above. A special lens board would contain a tripping lever for the shutter. This board would have a silver trip at the bottom left, not seen from the front. The solenoid lay sideways in the bottom of the front standard. In addtion, each lens/board combination would come with it's own rangefinder cam for the proper focal length of the combo.
I only have one complete lens setup. It is a 105 lens with board and cam. Moderately wide angle for 4X5.
Again, great camera, but the one I have now had been stripped of many critical rangefinder and electronic parts. So, I stripped it on down, taking almost a pound off the weight. It still makes an excellent view (ground glass) camera, since the Super had more movements than previous Graflex Press cameras.
Fred Lustig indicated to me that when Toyo bought the tooling and rights to the Super Graphic from Graflex, they changed a lot of the mechanism switching to metric and debased the camera a bit.
You don't often see the Toyo variation and Toyo has no parts inventory that I was able to find.
As I said, my camera is stripped down since it was already beyond reasonable refitting and that makes it imminently more packable. I would be reluctant to modify a working example as they don't come up often in full working mode.
I'm not likely to handhold any 4X5 and I have great respect for those journalists who did pack these camera's around all day and in the field. They are real tanks, and highly efficient for the purpose for which they are intended.
batteries, covers, and such
I've had two supers and one super speed that worked properly. The batteries are 22.5 volts each, and I last heard they were still available at Midwest Photo Exchange. I seem to recall that I once bought a battery cover from MPEX. I did also have one camera with a homemade battery cover. Not a difficult feat once you know how they attach.
The difference between a Super and a Super Speed is the special shutter on the front of the Super Speed with a big chrome cocking (charging) ring and rodenstock 135mm lens. These shutters were rated up to 1/1000, but it was often said that the highest real-time speed was very likely 1/800th on a properly serviced shutter. The shutter blades, according to some, are too large to reallly attain 1/1000.
The Super (not speed) usually had an Ektar 127 or an Optar 135 in a Graphex shutter rated up to 1/400th /4.7.
A proper front lens/board/cam arrangement would be a lens/shutter in one of the variations above. A special lens board would contain a tripping lever for the shutter. This board would have a silver trip at the bottom left, not seen from the front. The solenoid lay sideways in the bottom of the front standard. In addtion, each lens/board combination would come with it's own rangefinder cam for the proper focal length of the combo.
I only have one complete lens setup. It is a 105 lens with board and cam. Moderately wide angle for 4X5.
Again, great camera, but the one I have now had been stripped of many critical rangefinder and electronic parts. So, I stripped it on down, taking almost a pound off the weight. It still makes an excellent view (ground glass) camera, since the Super had more movements than previous Graflex Press cameras.
Fred Lustig indicated to me that when Toyo bought the tooling and rights to the Super Graphic from Graflex, they changed a lot of the mechanism switching to metric and debased the camera a bit.
You don't often see the Toyo variation and Toyo has no parts inventory that I was able to find.
As I said, my camera is stripped down since it was already beyond reasonable refitting and that makes it imminently more packable. I would be reluctant to modify a working example as they don't come up often in full working mode.
I'm not likely to handhold any 4X5 and I have great respect for those journalists who did pack these camera's around all day and in the field. They are real tanks, and highly efficient for the purpose for which they are intended.
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Spavinaw
Well-known
By the way, so far no one has mentioned that the wiring for the flash also runs through the bellows. There are two contacts at the top corners of the front standard that match two contacts on the back of the lens board. On the camera body the flash connector is at the lower right side. It has three holes. Check that there is continuity between the left and center holes and the contacts on the front standard. Not sure if the right hole has wiring to somewhere or is just for proper orientation of the connecting plug.
cnewhall
Chris
Here are two pictures of it that he sent me. He is giving it to me for free now. I really want to get it working and use it. Since the camera itself is not costing me anything, I will definitely invest the money into sending it to Fred Lustig and having him fix anything that is wrong with it.
Attachments
kuzano
Veteran
Looks fairly intact....
Looks fairly intact....
The separate piece with the ground glass should have two hooks at approximately the middle of each long side of the ground glass. Those hook under and slide into position to hold the GG portion of the back to the revolving portion of the back which is mounted to the camera. If you look on the other side of the separate piece you should see two chrome pieces that you push in on to extend the hooks on the front side to engage the hooks/pins in the revolving portion of the back. When mounted the back Ground Glass carrying portion operates much as a standard 4X5 using film holders slid under. When detached, the chrome sliding tabs engage Graflok type devices like roll film holders.
What you have there is a Graflex SUPER SPEED Graphic. The capitalized SPEED is due to the special 1000 speed shutter with the rodenstock lens you have on this camera. You turn the big chrome ring to cock the shutter (I think clockwise???)
While touted as the ultimate achievement of the breed, that special shutter/lens was not highly reliable.
However, I know that Fred knows the lens and shutter well and may be able to CLA it properly. Many however, don't really bother with this lens and shutter. I had one, and while in operable condition, it rarely achieved much over 1/500th of a second.
Good luck... that's certainly a great find, particularly for free.
Looks fairly intact....
The separate piece with the ground glass should have two hooks at approximately the middle of each long side of the ground glass. Those hook under and slide into position to hold the GG portion of the back to the revolving portion of the back which is mounted to the camera. If you look on the other side of the separate piece you should see two chrome pieces that you push in on to extend the hooks on the front side to engage the hooks/pins in the revolving portion of the back. When mounted the back Ground Glass carrying portion operates much as a standard 4X5 using film holders slid under. When detached, the chrome sliding tabs engage Graflok type devices like roll film holders.
What you have there is a Graflex SUPER SPEED Graphic. The capitalized SPEED is due to the special 1000 speed shutter with the rodenstock lens you have on this camera. You turn the big chrome ring to cock the shutter (I think clockwise???)
While touted as the ultimate achievement of the breed, that special shutter/lens was not highly reliable.
However, I know that Fred knows the lens and shutter well and may be able to CLA it properly. Many however, don't really bother with this lens and shutter. I had one, and while in operable condition, it rarely achieved much over 1/500th of a second.
Good luck... that's certainly a great find, particularly for free.
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Gumby
Veteran
The spring arms appear to be missing. Finding a back is possible; I've seen them from time-to-time on ebay.
I doubt that even Lustig would overhaul that shutter. It would be better to find a 135 Optar/Graphex with Super board and replace it. The Super lens/shutter will look real nice on a shelf.
I doubt that even Lustig would overhaul that shutter. It would be better to find a 135 Optar/Graphex with Super board and replace it. The Super lens/shutter will look real nice on a shelf.
kuzano
Veteran
I agree on the shutter/lens....
I agree on the shutter/lens....
I think you may be right on Fred's willingness to rebuild that particular shutter, but would hang onto it in any event. The suggestion on the 135 Optar/Graphex is well made.
I could not see the pic of the back well enough, but you may be right on the spring arms, and if so, I think the chrome buttons I mentioned on the back may also be missing. The camera can still be used for many types of Graflok devices, while looking for a working back. Also, that back is one thing Fred may have parts for and could certainly fix.
I agree on the shutter/lens....
The spring arms appear to be missing. Finding a back is possible; I've seen them from time-to-time on ebay.
I doubt that even Lustig would overhaul that shutter. It would be better to find a 135 Optar/Graphex with Super board and replace it. The Super lens/shutter will look real nice on a shelf.
I think you may be right on Fred's willingness to rebuild that particular shutter, but would hang onto it in any event. The suggestion on the 135 Optar/Graphex is well made.
I could not see the pic of the back well enough, but you may be right on the spring arms, and if so, I think the chrome buttons I mentioned on the back may also be missing. The camera can still be used for many types of Graflok devices, while looking for a working back. Also, that back is one thing Fred may have parts for and could certainly fix.
Gumby
Veteran
Until a back can be found... roll film backs!!!!!!!!
Gumby
Veteran
Oh, yes... it wouldn't be surprising to hear that Fred could fix the back.
gdi
Veteran
The spring arms appear to be missing. Finding a back is possible; I've seen them from time-to-time on ebay.
I doubt that even Lustig would overhaul that shutter. It would be better to find a 135 Optar/Graphex with Super board and replace it. The Super lens/shutter will look real nice on a shelf.
I think Fred can perform any repairs on the 1000 shutter - he told me he could and now has mine in hand. I believe he has all the parts. Of course I will be better able to judge after it returns.
But it is a good idea to have another lens, I think. I may try to find a 90, but it may be hard to find a board with the linkage.
As for the pics of the OP's camera - that looks pretty good to me, nice find!
gdi
Veteran
To follow up, it took a lot longer to get my Super Speed back than I thought it would - around 6 months. Fred did CLA the camera and lens. So he does work on the lens and has those parts.
Everything is seems to be working fine now - though my first experiments with an electronic flash were not successful, my rigged cable didn't work consistently.
Everything is seems to be working fine now - though my first experiments with an electronic flash were not successful, my rigged cable didn't work consistently.
kuzano
Veteran
Good for YOU!!!
Good for YOU!!!
Glad to see you followed through. Fred may have taken some time, but he's the man!
Watching these cameras on eBay consistently, and seeing the prices, I'd say that if Fred got that shutter to it's best know performance, and the red button shutter release working through the bellow, you now have a Super Speed Graphic worth some real money. I'd venture $500 to $750 based on cosmetics, $750 being pristine condition and all functions working. Average cosmetics and all functions working.... $5-600.
Lars
I meant to mention something when the question of the ribbon wiring was discussed. Fred seems to still be able to come up with used bellows (new no longer available) with good continuity on the ribbons that carry the current forward to the lens (folded into the pleats). However, it occurs to me that one could also bring that current forward with external wiring to connect the red button to the front lens standard solenoid, for hand held shooting. Then of course there is the old standby remote cable release.
Good for YOU!!!
Glad to see you followed through. Fred may have taken some time, but he's the man!
Watching these cameras on eBay consistently, and seeing the prices, I'd say that if Fred got that shutter to it's best know performance, and the red button shutter release working through the bellow, you now have a Super Speed Graphic worth some real money. I'd venture $500 to $750 based on cosmetics, $750 being pristine condition and all functions working. Average cosmetics and all functions working.... $5-600.
Lars
I meant to mention something when the question of the ribbon wiring was discussed. Fred seems to still be able to come up with used bellows (new no longer available) with good continuity on the ribbons that carry the current forward to the lens (folded into the pleats). However, it occurs to me that one could also bring that current forward with external wiring to connect the red button to the front lens standard solenoid, for hand held shooting. Then of course there is the old standby remote cable release.
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