I am in Tokyo, making the camera shop roundsl
Someone is turning out very nice fake S250 motors as well as S36 motors.
pics once I get back to the states.
Would you believe a black Nikon SP with S250 and S36 drives for only 880,00 yen? So what if they are fake, they are pretty!
Well, believe it.
Someone is turning out very nice fake S250 motors as well as S36 motors.
pics once I get back to the states.
Would you believe a black Nikon SP with S250 and S36 drives for only 880,00 yen? So what if they are fake, they are pretty!
Well, believe it.
B-9
Devin Bro
Run into any fake Nikon Mini finders?
Caught them on the Nikon RF Facebook group.
Caught them on the Nikon RF Facebook group.
Run into any fake Nikon Mini finders?
Caught them on the Nikon RF Facebook group.
nope, not yet
Livesteamer
Well-known
Sounds like a lot of work but a motor on my SP would be fun. I still have a motorized Nikon F that did many rolls for me. Are they also making the motor plate for the bottom of the SP/S3/S4?
Sounds like a lot of work but a motor on my SP would be fun. I still have a motorized Nikon F that did many rolls for me. Are they also making the motor plate for the bottom of the SP/S3/S4?
fairly sure the fake S250 and S36 motors and their plates are modified from the F versions.
farlymac
PF McFarland
Maybe I could sell them the one I tried to fix. 
PF
PF
B-9
Devin Bro
You still have that ^? 
richardHaw
junk scavenger
i found some fake early F's. there is a market out there and there are people making them and buying them. who are those people making them? I am sure everybody knows the answer 


this is the reason why I am reluctant to make an article on how to properly paint a silver camera to a black one. those people can just churn out fake black S2's if I did that.
this is the reason why I am reluctant to make an article on how to properly paint a silver camera to a black one. those people can just churn out fake black S2's if I did that.
B-9
Devin Bro
Richard, it’s no secret.
There are easy ways to strip a camera of its chrome. Muriatic Acid does a good job.
The Nickel is much more stubborn. I use MetalX Nickel strip. I have a slow cooker dedicated to nickel work. I heat up the MetalX bath and toss the parts in.
Alternatively you could just blow both off with a bit of sand blasting.
Most want instant gratification and do not want to spend all the time required for a good strip and paint. It takes a certain type of DIYer to want to do this.
There are easy ways to strip a camera of its chrome. Muriatic Acid does a good job.
The Nickel is much more stubborn. I use MetalX Nickel strip. I have a slow cooker dedicated to nickel work. I heat up the MetalX bath and toss the parts in.
Alternatively you could just blow both off with a bit of sand blasting.
Most want instant gratification and do not want to spend all the time required for a good strip and paint. It takes a certain type of DIYer to want to do this.
Yes, the process is well-known.
The actual talent to remove the dings and dents and nicks, and apply a nice smooth flawless coat that doesn't flake off, is another thing altogether.
The actual talent to remove the dings and dents and nicks, and apply a nice smooth flawless coat that doesn't flake off, is another thing altogether.
richardHaw
junk scavenger
theres a better way. 


B-9
Devin Bro
Yes, the process is well-known.
The actual talent to remove the dings and dents and nicks, and apply a nice smooth flawless coat that doesn't flake off, is another thing altogether.![]()
I can agree with that!
Some things are not easily conveyed through text.
Richard, I would love that thread! Btw.
I’ve done a few cameras and what I’ve got is stupid simple.
Not sure how it could be simpler, I’m open to others ideas!
Edit: I’ve tried electrolysis, it’s not feasible for a DIYer. Just my honest opinion.
richardHaw
junk scavenger
I can agree with that!
Edit: I’ve tried electrolysis, it’s not feasible for a DIYer. Just my honest opinion.
it's possible. we had a jewelry and watch repair shop and we had one that uses car batteries, even over-the-counter batteries should work. however, it is a health hazard
my wife will kill me if I did that at home since we have a baby at home :angel: it's her birthday today :angel:
that's the best way as it eats away the stuff slowly. the protective chrome can easily be removed by pickling it in bleach but the nickel will be stubborn.
the dings are easy so long as its a flat panel, corners and curves are hard as you will need a die. I am thinking for a long time if I should invest in making them for the models that i fix the most which are Nikkormats and F's. I am used to making them using the lost-wax casting method but without access to a centrifugal machine, forge, etc it will be a project for next time. maybe I should out source this. i had a lab once so it was simple for me.
The nickel is a pain, and then there is the smut after that. Yes that’s a technical term. 
Bead blast to the brass and then the real work begins.
I painted tons of Leicas and a few Nikons and Contaxes about ten years ago. Tedious for sure, and rewarding to see dull, drab, worn cameras look new again.
Bead blast to the brass and then the real work begins.
I painted tons of Leicas and a few Nikons and Contaxes about ten years ago. Tedious for sure, and rewarding to see dull, drab, worn cameras look new again.
farlymac
PF McFarland
You still have that ^?![]()
Why yes I do. Not sure what I'll do with it, but if you're interested, I could pack it up and send your way. Part of it (the battery pack I rebuilt) went to TomA to get his F running again.
BTW, where I used to work we stripped plating off by using a bath of Lime Kool Aid in a sonic cleaner. Takes it right down to the brass if you leave it in long enough.
PF
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