GX Metering problem

P

panerai

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Just got my GX and checking the meter. Managed to get the red overexposure to light up by shifting to 1.7 and pointing at some bright lights.

Can't get the yellow light to come up in order to check and see if that works, so not sure if the bulb is burnt out.

Any suggestion on a way to check the yellow underexposure light?

Thanks

DON
 
It sounds like your metering is ok, have you checked the Pad of Death?

If the POD is okay and you still can't get the yellow light to work, it may be the contacts that operate the meter are simply dirty. See this picture dor reference:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/29271559@N02/3566212505/in/set-72157618738188567/

I am sure that the proper way to clean these contacts involves the same disassembly required for replacing the POD as outlined on YashicaGuy's website:

http://www.yashica-guy.com/document/repair.html#nine

I had this problem on a GSN that I recently purchased as a "parts" camera. As I bought it cheaply enough to take the chance, I cleaned these contact the "quick and dirty" way, by using an eyedropper to put a couple of small drops of naphtha (Ronsonol) into the camera body beneath the POD and dry-firing several times. The meter now works flawlessly; but if you do try this, use the naphtha very sparingly.

Karen Nakamura also suggest rotating the aperture ring back and forth rapidly several times to clean the contacts within the lens assemply without diassembly.
 
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meter

meter

Thanks. I read a number of articles on the GX and shifted the ring back and forth. Don't think there's a POD problem as I get the clunk when moving the advance lever and did it about 30 times testing it and no change in the sound.

Think I also read that the GX doesn't have the POD as other systems, but may be mistaken.

I did try f/16 in various rooms and different lighting situations and still didn't come on

Will read the Karesh article and see what that says, but camera he's discussing is different than the GX as this camerai is apeture priority only.

Have some film in it to test and once I test it. Can then go through his checklist

Thanks

DON
 
Pod

Pod

I did locate a response on the GX model in another forum and person did say the GX doesn't have the POD, so something I don't have to worry about.

I do read quite a bit about the metering problem. Not sure I want to start taking it apart though (if it was a watch movement. It would be in pieces by now)

I figure if I stay around 5.6 - 11 for outdoors. I should be OK (I think)

Using ASA 100 BW film

My other camera is a Panasonic LX3 and found my fathers Konica S2 which is near mint condition

DON
 
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If you decide it is more if a hassle than it is worth, I'dll take it off your hands. I haven't worked on a gx before - that would be an interesting education. :)
 
If I had some junk cameras to play with. I learn pretty quick. I taught myself watchmaking to restore vintage watches (although my watchmaker does the actually cleaning - I can break down and rebuild movements)

Cameras being larger could be easier to work on. Problem is wiring/electronics which were never a strong suit.

Also. All standard watch movements are designed with similar principles as to where the gears have to go. Cameras are all designed differently from one company to the next which makes it harder to rebuild.

Probably have to do the seals in the camera, but more worried about little spider webbings on the outer edges of the lens (seller said no fungas, but think it's a glue problem between the front lens). It's light, but will have to see if it affects images)

DON
 
Gx

Gx

Brian Legge said:
If you decide it is more if a hassle than it is worth, I'dll take it off your hands. I haven't worked on a gx before - that would be an interesting education. :)
Click to expand...

Hi Brian,

As mentioned in my previous post. Spider veins on the outside edges of the lens which the seller didn't mention.

I paid $100 for it (not including the s/h), so if interested. Will sell at the same price, but want to shoot off the roll of film I just got.

If the price is OK with you. Can email me at tickman@rogers.com

Let me know

Thanks

DON
 
It's probably a burned out light, which is common in these cameras. The only way to make sure the camera meters properly (even when both lights work) is to run a roll of film through it. If the shutter speed changes when you switch apertures, it's more than likely that the meter is okay.

There is no pad/pod on the GX cameras, so you don't have to worry about that. The front elements of the GX lens are not glued together, if you have the proper tools you can remove the front element group, and then disassemble it to clean out the dirt. Spiderweb marks sound like fungus, which sometimes grows along the edges of Yashinon lenses.
 
Gx

Gx

Frontman said:
It's probably a burned out light, which is common in these cameras. The only way to make sure the camera meters properly (even when both lights work) is to run a roll of film through it. If the shutter speed changes when you switch apertures, it's more than likely that the meter is okay.

There is no pad/pod on the GX cameras, so you don't have to worry about that. The front elements of the GX lens are not glued together, if you have the proper tools you can remove the front element group, and then disassemble it to clean out the dirt. Spiderweb marks sound like fungus, which sometimes grows along the edges of Yashinon lenses.
Click to expand...

Thanks. No tools to remove the front element. I do see the little notches on the outside ring to unscrew it though.

Might get adventurous as some later point

DON
 
If you do feel adventurous, it's not a difficult job. You start by removing the retaining ring which holds the round faceplate around the lens. Once the ring is removed, you simply pop out the faceplate. Behind the faceplate is the light meter baffle ring, this should pop out too.

Once these are removed, you need to remove the lens elements. You need a lens spanner with narrow points, as there isn't much room to grasp the notches. Once the element group is removed, you'll need a set of soft nose pliers and your lens spanner to disassemble the elements.

When the front group is removed, you can remove the three screws which hold the aperture selector ring in place. After remove the screws and pulling off the ring and it's holder, you'll see the round brass plate which covers the shutter assembly. Remove the two screws which hold the meter cell, and then the three screws which hold on the brass plate.

If you are looking at the camera from the bottom side (top facing away from you), you'll see the self timer mechanism on the right, and the shutter mechanism on the left. On the left is also the electromagnetic coil which regulates the shutter speed. There are two linkages nearby which operate the shutter. If you cock the shutter, press your finger on the linkage below the coil nearest the shutter, and then press the shutter button, the shutter will stay open, and allow you to clean the inside of the rear element.

The two pivot points on the linkages nearest the shutter should be lubricated. The lubricant on these pivots dries out in time, which usually results in overexposed images.

Putting the camera back together is the reverse of the above, though you have to line up a pin on the aperture selector ring with the notch that receives it. It is a simple process.
 
Repair

Repair

Thanks for the information. Will check around for a junker before trying it on my camera just in case.

Have a few customers in Japan and will check and see if any are near pawn shops/ camera stores selling vintage items.

Might get lucky

Regards

DON
 
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