350D_user
B+W film devotee
The cyanotype process does not require adobe photoshop...:dazedgonebye said:
http://www.alternativephotography.com/articles/art026.html
Sparrow
Veteran
It’s me that needs it, I’m still learning PS6 and the plug-in won’t work on 6 being a bit of a technophobe I put off upgrades until I’ve no choice, I’ll have to work round it in curves, cant face a new program.350D_user said:
350D_user
B+W film devotee
A plugin only does a lot of stuff for you without you realising/knowing. You need to convert the photo to b+w, then go to the color mixer.Sparrow said:It’s me that needs it, I’m still learning PS6 and the plug-in won’t work on 6 being a bit of a technophobe I put off upgrades until I’ve no choice, I’ll have to work round it in curves, cant face a new program.
Technophobe or just plain luddite... you can do it.
Bryce
Well-known
You guys are starting me down a bad road here.
I've been thinking of making cyanotypes, Van Dyke browns, and (the holy grail) Daguerrotypes for a couple of years.
I've made a couple of abortive starts, but my inkjet printer is flatly not good enough. I get visible scan lines, not enough tonal range in the negative, and yucky/ fake looking dithering patterns visible. I've tried printing on B/W paper only, though, since I decided it wasn't very sensible to get materials ready 'till I had a way to make good negatives.
I tried using 2 different printers to make the negatives- Epson 785 EPX, and a Canon s-9000. I got similarly useless results from both. And yes, I used the Pictorico brand OHP material.
So I gave up. I've decided to try it the old fashioned way- buy some 8x10 sheet film, enlarge the image onto it, and contact print onto the alternate material in question.
I've been thinking of making cyanotypes, Van Dyke browns, and (the holy grail) Daguerrotypes for a couple of years.
I've made a couple of abortive starts, but my inkjet printer is flatly not good enough. I get visible scan lines, not enough tonal range in the negative, and yucky/ fake looking dithering patterns visible. I've tried printing on B/W paper only, though, since I decided it wasn't very sensible to get materials ready 'till I had a way to make good negatives.
I tried using 2 different printers to make the negatives- Epson 785 EPX, and a Canon s-9000. I got similarly useless results from both. And yes, I used the Pictorico brand OHP material.
So I gave up. I've decided to try it the old fashioned way- buy some 8x10 sheet film, enlarge the image onto it, and contact print onto the alternate material in question.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
350D_user said:
No, of course it can be done with no digital at all. I'm pretty sure that photoshop wasn't around in 1840.
Seriously, Chartthrob is not a plug-in, it's a script. That's why it won't work with ps before CS2. The script actually analyzes the scan of your test print to determine the dynamic range of your process and design the curve.
I suppose that all that must be possible through manual work, but I can't imagine what that would take.
akptc
Shoot first, think later
Thanks Steve, this looks like a fun process.dazedgonebye said:
Sparrow
Veteran
If I can find the gamut and save a, straight line, curve of the reduced range it shouldn’t be too bad, I’m thinkingdazedgonebye said:No, of course it can be done with no digital at all. I'm pretty sure that photoshop wasn't around in 1840.
Seriously, Chartthrob is not a plug-in, it's a script. That's why it won't work with ps before CS2. The script actually analyzes the scan of your test print to determine the dynamic range of your process and design the curve.
I suppose that all that must be possible through manual work, but I can't imagine what that would take.
8bit RGB scan
desaturation layer
curve layer to set the gamut
curve layer to adjust the mid-tones
somewhere I have a UV lamp intended for reptiles and a 12x18 contact frame so I’ll be able to catch some rays while I do some test strips
dazedgonebye
Veteran
Sparrow said:If I can find the gamut and save a, straight line, curve of the reduced range it shouldn’t be too bad, I’m thinking
8bit RGB scan
desaturation layer
curve layer to set the gamut
curve layer to adjust the mid-tones
somewhere I have a UV lamp intended for reptiles and a 12x18 contact frame so I’ll be able to catch some rays while I do some test strips
It'd be a bit slow...but if you like, I can scan your print for you and send you the adjustment curve.
I'd send you the file you need to print the test pattern. You'd print it out as a cyanotype and then send that print to me. I'd scan it and run the script on it and then send you a ps file containing the adjustment layer.
Let me know if you're interested.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
Wait...that doesn't make sense....
If you have a scanner, you can do the scan and send me the file. All I'll have to do is generate the curve from that.
If you have a scanner, you can do the scan and send me the file. All I'll have to do is generate the curve from that.
Sparrow
Veteran
It would be a big help if you can send me the *.acv file from any neg or a file with just the curve layer I can set the dynamic range from that, the full .tiff would be too slow, from then on its like adjusting any other print, except backwards, i think
E-mail’s smcbridemcbride@btinternet.com
thanks
E-mail’s smcbridemcbride@btinternet.com
thanks
dazedgonebye
Veteran
Sparrow said:
The problem is, you have to print out the test pattern using your standard process first. Then you scan that. ChartThrob needs that input to analyze.
My curves are only appropriate for my printer, film, paper, chemistry combination.
Sparrow
Veteran
Right………got it now, bit slow, been scaning all afternoon brain dead now, I’ll check when I go back into work someone’s bound to use CS2