Hasselblad 2000fc Questions

Jake Mongey

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Hey all,

Recently my trusty 500 EL had the motor die and I am looking at mechanical alternatives for just a body only. I have been looking at a 2000FC and of course the shutter is a concern however owning my EL I was terrified of touching the barn doors and never managed to touch them accidentally so I should be fine.

I have non T* C lenses and from what I Have read If i set the lens to Bulb I will be able to use the focal plane shutter as normal.

If i set the Body to C mode I will be able to use the leaf shutter for flash sync.

Am I correct in this?

I do regularly use it in the studio although I also in many situations want to shoot wide open in bright sunlight so having both options sounds like a dream!

Any input appreciated!
 
Hey all,

Recently my trusty 500 EL had the motor die and I am looking at mechanical alternatives for just a body only. I have been looking at a 2000FC and of course the shutter is a concern however owning my EL I was terrified of touching the barn doors and never managed to touch them accidentally so I should be fine.

I have non T* C lenses and from what I Have read If i set the lens to Bulb I will be able to use the focal plane shutter as normal.

If i set the Body to C mode I will be able to use the leaf shutter for flash sync.

Am I correct in this?

I do regularly use it in the studio although I also in many situations want to shoot wide open in bright sunlight so having both options sounds like a dream!

Any input appreciated!

Hi Jake,
You're quite right with the above. Basically you get to have your cake and eat it too. All the benefits of a focal plane shutter and lens shutter, according to which one you want to use.

I'm sure you've already seen it, but, just in case you may retrieve the original instruction manual here:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/hasselblad/hasselblad_2000fc/hasselblad_2000fc.htm

The shutter curtains are probably the biggest concern. I've been watching a few examples of this model over the years and they're quite affordable. But it seems many advertised have curtain issues. I only say this because, the examples I've watched on eBay have nearly always had creases or wrinkles in the curtains which have been visible in the listing images. I'd probably own one with minor imperfections in the curtain foil at the right price, but that price would be tempered by the knowledge that eventually, problems would occur.

Regarding your concerns about the rear shutter of your EL, it's nowhere near as fragile as a proper focal plane shutter. Yes of course you don't want to bang magazines into it, but if you did it would have to be a good whack near one of the hinges, I reckon, to actually cause immediate damage. Still, I applaud your diligence in caring for your equipment. It's usually better to be too careful, than not careful enough, yes?

But bear in mind that it's not necessary to remove a back at all to re-load it. You can easily leave the shell attached to a body and just remove the insert to unload and re-load. I do this with my 500C/M if I'm walking about, simply because it means there is one less thing to have to try and hold when re-loading on the move. You can do it with the dark slide inserted or removed (providing the slide has been installed the correct way with the curl at the handle towards the lens, that is).

With a 2000FC model, the obvious appeal of using the camera this way is that, (providing, of course, you don't need to change films mid-roll) you can completely sidestep any risk of damage to the curtains. Though, from what you've said, Jake, you're being so careful that I doubt you're the sort of owner who'd be likely to trash a curtain anyway.

Douglas Fairbanks or his son Jeffrey at Classic V are the people in the UK to get the best information about the 2000FC from. I'm pretty sure replacement curtains have not been available for some years, but they'll be able to confirm this if you're seriously considering buying one. Douglas actually successfully converted one of his to cloth curtains some years ago, but it's not a service he's offering or even willing to do for owners, so please don't ask him to! He's always been very helpful to Hassy owners, though, so may be prepared to talk about what was involved. I mention it only because if you decide to buy one and it endears itself to you sufficiently, *if* you can find a technician who is up for non-routine modifications and likes a challenge, it would be one way of making a 2000FC usable for some years ahead. But, it would cost you more than another standard body to have one converted and first, you would have to find someone willing to do the necessary work.
Cheers,
Brett
 
Hi Jake,
You're quite right with the above. Basically you get to have your cake and eat it too. All the benefits of a focal plane shutter and lens shutter, according to which one you want to use.

I'm sure you've already seen it, but, just in case you may retrieve the original instruction manual here:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/hasselblad/hasselblad_2000fc/hasselblad_2000fc.htm

The shutter curtains are probably the biggest concern. I've been watching a few examples of this model over the years and they're quite affordable. But it seems many advertised have curtain issues. I only say this because, the examples I've watched on eBay have nearly always had creases or wrinkles in the curtains which have been visible in the listing images. I'd probably own one with minor imperfections in the curtain foil at the right price, but that price would be tempered by the knowledge that eventually, problems would occur.

Regarding your concerns about the rear shutter of your EL, it's nowhere near as fragile as a proper focal plane shutter. Yes of course you don't want to bang magazines into it, but if you did it would have to be a good whack near one of the hinges, I reckon, to actually cause immediate damage. Still, I applaud your diligence in caring for your equipment. It's usually better to be too careful, than not careful enough, yes?

But bear in mind that it's not necessary to remove a back at all to re-load it. You can easily leave the shell attached to a body and just remove the insert to unload and re-load. I do this with my 500C/M if I'm walking about, simply because it means there is one less thing to have to try and hold when re-loading on the move. You can do it with the dark slide inserted or removed (providing the slide has been installed the correct way with the curl at the handle towards the lens, that is).

With a 2000FC model, the obvious appeal of using the camera this way is that, (providing, of course, you don't need to change films mid-roll) you can completely sidestep any risk of damage to the curtains. Though, from what you've said, Jake, you're being so careful that I doubt you're the sort of owner who'd be likely to trash a curtain anyway.

Douglas Fairbanks or his son Jeffrey at Classic V are the people in the UK to get the best information about the 2000FC from. I'm pretty sure replacement curtains have not been available for some years, but they'll be able to confirm this if you're seriously considering buying one. Douglas actually successfully converted one of his to cloth curtains some years ago, but it's not a service he's offering or even willing to do for owners, so please don't ask him to! He's always been very helpful to Hassy owners, though, so may be prepared to talk about what was involved. I mention it only because if you decide to buy one and it endears itself to you sufficiently, *if* you can find a technician who is up for non-routine modifications and likes a challenge, it would be one way of making a 2000FC usable for some years ahead. But, it would cost you more than another standard body to have one converted and first, you would have to find someone willing to do the necessary work.
Cheers,
Brett

Thanks for the reply! I do change magazines a LOT so It is a concern although I reckon ill be fine. Its just a matter of confirming that it will do both functions I want! I work In central london and theres someone selling two with pristine shutters near where I work so if its all good I think its a no brainer. However for the same price I could get a 553 ELX...

So many choices!
 
Jake,
investigate the ELX further. There is a Guy over on the 70mm forum that wants to give you an A70, so you could shoot 220 length rolls with it, and process on a smaller reel (Patterson reels work with 70mm 220 lengths). That would give you a bit more firepower at 24 exposures.

Kick the tyres on both bodies and make a decision based on your careful findings.
 
Jake,
investigate the ELX further. There is a Guy over on the 70mm forum that wants to give you an A70, so you could shoot 220 length rolls with it, and process on a smaller reel (Patterson reels work with 70mm 220 lengths). That would give you a bit more firepower at 24 exposures.

Kick the tyres on both bodies and make a decision based on your careful findings.

Oh jeez I didnt notice that! Its a battle of Both have a larger mirror but the ELX has the motor and a brighter screen. However the 2000 Has the 1/2000 shutter speed but is mechanical. I think I may go with the 2000 though simply for the shutter speeds, still undecided though - the elx will save me £80!
 
Jake,
investigate the ELX further. There is a Guy over on the 70mm forum that wants to give you an A70, so you could shoot 220 length rolls with it, and process on a smaller reel (Patterson reels work with 70mm 220 lengths). That would give you a bit more firepower at 24 exposures.

Kick the tyres on both bodies and make a decision based on your careful findings.

I'm not sure how you could put 220 film in a 70mm back. I've used a lot of 70mm in hasselblads and can't imagine how.

In the early 80's I purchased a new 2000fcw for the photo department that I ran for an ad agency. Let me be honest that the camera was a constant problem. The fcw retracted the FP shutter curtains so curtain damage wasn't a problem but the camera was delicate and frequently in the shop with shutter issues. The 2000 series had too many issues and we're discontinued for good reasons. Honestly, the only way I'd own one is if it was given to me.

The V series are Rock solid and I'd much rather save the money to get a good clean 500cm and save myself headaches and expense of repairs if they can even be repaired.

The EL variations are durable and cheap but slow, large, heavy and noisy. I've owned them and used many but they'd be just above the 2000 series in desirability. At least the EL variations are reliable.

The barn doors on the V series are very durable. If you ever have the shutter trip on the lens while mounting the lens you'll have to push the barn doors open and use a screwdriver to cock the lens. Again they're by no means delicate.

First choices in Hasselblads,

1 - 501CM has oversize gliding mirror

2 - 501C regular mirror like 500cm but the last variations with the standard mirror

3 - 500CM the first model with interchangable screens with minor improvements over the 500c

4 - 500c the first leaf shutter model V series camera and very durable

5 - any EL variation with ELX being the last model I believ

I'd stay away from the 2000 series, far away.
 
I'm not sure how you could put 220 film in a 70mm back. I've used a lot of 70mm in hasselblads and can't imagine how.

Hi Don,

I wrote "220 film length" and we are using 70mm film. Shoot 24 70mm exposures, cut the film in the dark, and process in a JOBO or Paterson reel and tank.

Happy Easter 🙂
 
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