Hasselblad C lens repair pointers?

[mooge]

Hey guys,

have any of you repaired a Hasselblad C lens? Or do you have a manual or any sort of guidance on how to get at the shutter? I borrowed my friend's 500c kit again (uh oh) and the 50mm distagon doesn't want to work below 1/30, which kind of sucks because I borrowed the kit mainly for the 50 and 1/15 is where it's at.


The body and back repair manuals are out there, so why not the lens? Is it really the impenetrable fortress that it's reputed to be? It can't be truly impossible to repair, can it?



And I'm too cheap to send it out (as usual) so... it's either I do it myself or it'll just sit in its aluminum case for another 10 or 20 or whatever years.

cheers.

 

[noisycheese]

It's your call, but I would urge you to just spend a little money and have it repaired by someone who knows what they are doing - it will cost you less in the long run than if you try to repair the lens, botch the job or damage the lens and then have to send it off to have it set right.

Although I have not had him work on a camera or lens of mine, David Odess sounds like he would be a good choice: http://www.david-odess.com/index.html

There is also Hasselblad USA: http://www.hasselbladusa.com/service--support/service.aspx

If you are cheap as you claim to be, spending a little money to have it done right the first time will be more economical when all is said and done. This is not changing the oil in your car; there's a lot more to it than that. 😉

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

If it is anything like the 40mm Distagon the focus helix array will be bloody complex, don't even think of going in there or putting any fluids anywhere near it. On the other hand it's just another Synchro Compur shutter isn't it, which, even though it has to close/open/close is little more complex than that in a Rollei or a rangefinder. First I'd try excercising it some on the camera body with the magazine off, see if it comes good. Usually it is the speeds from 1/8 down that fail first because these use the pallet on the escapement. For 1/30 and 1/15 to go as well makes we wonder if it is dirty shutter blades or perhaps mechanical/debris jam. Maybe there's a problem with the speed cam and one of the pins...

With the lens on the body, fire it at a faster speed, and then, slowly wind the body knob until the blades begin to part. This will help you inspect the blades for cracks and damage perhaps not evident with them fully closed.

If you're comfy with leaf shutters you can do little harm removing the back plate for a look (four or so screws). Wouldn't go past the shutter, however or you'll quickly be in over your head. Been there, done that. Otherwise, seek professional attention for it.
Cheers,
Brett

 

[mbisc]

Different system, but same lens manufacturer - I had my Zeiss lenses from my Contax SLR system serviced by Zeiss Oberkochen a few years ago (after a trip to Antelope Canyon, which resulted in lots of fine sand in the helicals 🙁 ). Very quick and not expensive.

 

[x-ray]

I wouldn't even think of opening the lens. David Odess is my first go to and then Hasselblad second.

 

[mikemc_photo]

Hassie lenses are well built and use a synchro compur mxv shutter. National Camera's Larry Lyells wrote a great service manual for this shutter ("OO"). When I CLA any Compur shutter they always need a new mainspring, along with a cleaning and relube. Most of the lenses do need spanners made for each lens, or you run the risk of scaring metal, or scratching glass. Many good shops do these, at fair prices . Spend your money wisely.

The difference between these Compurs is the extra linkage for the blades opening when cocked and mirror down

VHI would be my choice.

 

[ChipMcD]

Suggested above: David Odess. I second that. David overhauled my SWC and I bought an older 250 Sonnar from him that is a jewel. He's also a true gentleman, and I think it's worth keeping these skilled repair folks in work so that they stay available to us.

 

[mooge]

If it is anything like the 40mm Distagon the focus helix array will be bloody complex, don't even think of going in there or putting any fluids anywhere near it. On the other hand it's just another Synchro Compur shutter isn't it, which, even though it has to close/open/close is little more complex than that in a Rollei or a rangefinder. First I'd try excercising it some on the camera body with the magazine off, see if it comes good. Usually it is the speeds from 1/8 down that fail first because these use the pallet on the escapement. For 1/30 and 1/15 to go as well makes we wonder if it is dirty shutter blades or perhaps mechanical/debris jam. Maybe there's a problem with the speed cam and one of the pins...

With the lens on the body, fire it at a faster speed, and then, slowly wind the body knob until the blades begin to part. This will help you inspect the blades for cracks and damage perhaps not evident with them fully closed.

If you're comfy with leaf shutters you can do little harm removing the back plate for a look (four or so screws). Wouldn't go past the shutter, however or you'll quickly be in over your head. Been there, done that. Otherwise, seek professional attention for it.
Cheers,
Brett

So once the bayonet mount is removed, I can have access to the shutter? Is that the case? All I want is access to the shutter - the helicals aren't smooth but I don't like to mess with helicals in general. Do you have any photos of the insides of any lens that you could share? I'd like to have a good idea of what I'm getting myself into before the screwdrivers come out...



I'd like to imagine that I could tackle repairing a Hasselblad lens but I suppose it is possible that they managed to cram an entire Leicaflex SL in there (figuratively) so it really isn't a good idea, especially since it's not my stuff. But on the other hand, those techs aren't going to be around forever so I might as well learn how to do it, and share the results online. I guess I'll look for a junker lens and try things out sometime.

Thanks, everyone, for the advice.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

So once the bayonet mount is removed, I can have access to the shutter? Is that the case? All I want is access to the shutter - the helicals aren't smooth but I don't like to mess with helicals in general. Do you have any photos of the insides of any lens that you could share? I'd like to have a good idea of what I'm getting myself into before the screwdrivers come out...



I'd like to imagine that I could tackle repairing a Hasselblad lens but I suppose it is possible that they managed to cram an entire Leicaflex SL in there (figuratively) so it really isn't a good idea, especially since it's not my stuff. But on the other hand, those techs aren't going to be around forever so I might as well learn how to do it, and share the results online. I guess I'll look for a junker lens and try things out sometime.

Thanks, everyone, for the advice.

It's been a few months, but, from memory, yes, you'll be able to reach the escapement. No photos because I wasn't smart enough to take them. Please, be smarter than me. :bang:

And for God's sake don't touch the focus ring with the mount off. Just don't even touch it, until it's back together. I spent hours with my 40mm getting it right, there were no reference marks and it has a kind of triple helix set up. One helix with multiple starts is bad enough. Times that by three complete with certain sectors that lack full interaction and see how much fun you can have.

If you really need to know before having a look, I can rip the plate off my 40 C again and give you a definitive response. But it's 2.30 hrs here in Tasmania and even I have to sleep...
Cheers
Brett

 

[mooge]

I guess I'll give it a shot myself sometime next week... if you could post photos sometime that would be great but if not I'll probably just take a peek anyways. I'll just hope it doesn't explode.

thanks, Brett!

 

[Landshark]

The slow speed escapement controls all speeds from 1/30-1sec. The pallet does engage @1/15 or 1/30.

I'm pretty sure the shutter access is from the front on the C lenses.
If I remember right, you need to remove the decorator plate and there will be several screws holding the lens to the shutter...........I've been wrong before though.

No big deal to remove the lens mount & take a look though.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

I guess I'll give it a shot myself sometime next week... if you could post photos sometime that would be great but if not I'll probably just take a peek anyways. I'll just hope it doesn't explode.

thanks, Brett!

No problems. I'm heading out the door for most of the day though, so it may be late tonight or this time tomorrow before I can upload some, but I will take the bayonet plate off my early 40mm C and do some shots. I expect they should be similar, if perhaps not identical.
Cheers
Brett

 

[mooge]

Cool! I won't (shouldn't) have time to work on it until next week so take your time.


landshark- you're suggesting that the front group comes off with some screws under the name ring? or the whole group unscrews?

 

[Landshark]

Screws beneath the ring..........Keep in mind. I've been wrong before.
pulling the mount off won't hurt anything, as I recall it's just the cocking linkage.

No idea how the 40 comes apart but with that much glass I doubt it's the same.

 

[mikemc_photo]

The slow speed escapement controls all speeds from 1/30-1sec. The pallet does engage @1/15 or 1/30.

I'm pretty sure the shutter access is from the front on the C lenses.
If I remember right, you need to remove the decorator plate and there will be several screws holding the lens to the shutter...........I've been wrong before though.

No big deal to remove the lens mount & take a look though.

Escapement provides ALL speeds except 1/500th.Full escapement !/15th - 1 sec. then the pallet kicks out and rest of speeds are without pallet and starwheel. Speeds adjustment on Compurs is at 1/15th ,

You NEVER need to split the Helicoid for any shutter work on C lenses.

 

[RandyB]

So how does your friend feel about you "repairing" HIS equipment? You need to think very seriously about what you are about to do, can you afford to buy him the correct repairment of HIS lens if you screw it up? I learned a long time ago to never loan/borrow equipment to/from friends.