Havana (where are the must-hit spots for street?)

[kiss-o-matic]

Title says it all. I figure it will be easy to find scenic photo spots, but if there's a must see place, I'd like to hit it. I'm looking for more gritty, candid stuff. The architecture will play second fiddle to the people/atmosphere.

 

[functus]

Wander the old city once, but be prepared to have to cough up a bit of money every time you've taken a photo; at any given point there are probably more photographers than residents in Habana Viejo. Try walking west from the old city through Centro -- along Neptuno or San Rafael -- to the university; as you near the university, the tourists and photographers thin out and you're more likely to see people who are less jaded about people with cameras.

Also try the area called Vedado, to the west of that -- broader, grid-like streets and the enormous ice cream palace called Coppelia; there are always a ton of locals around there.

I've got a few Havana shots from my last trip there up on my website if you're interested:

www.geehueimages.com

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Thank you! Exactly what I want. I'm generally taking photos on the sly, but don't mind helping out a bit. I figured one of the cheaper currency would suffice? That's like a nickel, right?

I figured there'd be a lot of photogs about. I think I do a decent job of not looking too much like a photographer. Eternal 5 o'clock shadow... long hair... Man bag of some sort. I usually have one camera in my hand, and I shoot from the hip for the most part.

 

[Hogarth Ferguson]

Not that you would, but I took a lot of instax photos and then gave them to people, and the loved it. I'm not sure I've seen people so excited before.

 

[Bob Michaels]

I have spent over 100 days photographing in Havana although I now live part time in eastern Cuba (Cueto, Holguin). You are correct, it is a great place to photograph although the cliche stuff is grossly overphotographed.

Realize Havana is a large diverse city with 2 million people in 15 different municipalities. Tourists are crammed into Habana Vieja which is the smallest of the 15. But you can walk 1-2 blocks from the tourist hordes and be on a street with no tourists. My late ex- lived 1 1/2 blocks off Obispo street which is shoulder to shoulder tourists but we would never see one in front of her apartment.

Do not hesitate to enter apartment walkways and court yards. Also, don't hesitate of ask if you can enter homes to photograph those inside. Cubans are very open and public. Spanish language is not necessary as everything can be communicated by gestures and facial expressions.

I have never paid anyone for a photo in Cuba. I simply do not photograph those whose business is to pose for tourist photos as they are not the photos I am looking for. If you do photograph one of them, the price is 1 CUC or basically $1-. Posing for tourist photos does require a business license for such.

I have always found the Prado, the pedestrian walkway / linear park from the Malecon (seawall) down to the Capitolio to be ideal for people photos. The Prado serves a social meeting place, playground for 3 schools, dance and music venue, gathering spot for ladies offering unique personal service to visitors, and just about everything else. I would walk the length of it several times a day as well as just sit on the benches and let life flow by.

You can see some of my Cuban work at http://bobmichaels.org/

 

[tocalosh]

Bobs advice is spot on.
The most important piece of equipment you need is a good pair of shoes and a big smile.
The people are very friendly! Stay in Habana Vieja but walk away from it and you'll find some amazing places with no tourists.
Stay in casa particulars, the owners are great for information and tips, you also get a big breakfast to start the day. The money also goes to people unlike the state owned hotels.

Havana is up there with Varanasi in India for cities that are great to spending long days getting lost and making photos, in my opinion.

 

[underlord]

Some amazing images there Bob, along with very insightful captions. We plan on going to Cuba - some day.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Not that you would, but I took a lot of instax photos and then gave them to people, and the loved it. I'm not sure I've seen people so excited before.

I have loads of FP-100C... was thinking of taking it but lugging my Mamiya Press around might kill my back.

I have always found the Prado, the pedestrian walkway / linear park from the Malecon (seawall) down to the Capitolio to be ideal for people photos. The Prado serves a social meeting place, playground for 3 schools, dance and music venue, gathering spot for ladies offering unique personal service to visitors, and just about everything else. I would walk the length of it several times a day as well as just sit on the benches and let life flow by.

You can see some of my Cuban work at http://bobmichaels.org/

Great shots, and information. If you want to get an idea of what I shoot, the majority of my stream on Flickr is from my time in Tokyo, and now my time living in Chicago (only 2 years). The former generally has a day-time population of some 30 million people, and I have become very accustomed to blending in with the chaos. I can hold my own in less busy areas like Chicago as well.

Like you, I do not care much for posed pictures. I do a handful of street portraits but very few.

Specific question: where is the LGBT friend neighborhood?

Havana is up there with Varanasi in India for cities that are great to spending long days getting lost and making photos, in my opinion.

Most of the days are meant to be spent walking around with the camera. Evenings will be dining and making sure the GF gets her touristy stuff in. I actually bought a 5-pack of Portra as I think I need to do some color, but will take a 10-pack of Tri-X as well.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Okay, semi Off topic: One thing I read said to bring "gifts". As a burner, I'm quite happy to give things. I just don't know what practically would be good to give (other than dinero, of course).

 

[Hogarth Ferguson]

Okay, semi Off topic: One thing I read said to bring "gifts". As a burner, I'm quite happy to give things. I just don't know what practically would be good to give (other than dinero, of course).

GEt a cheap instax and some film, I know I already said it, but seeing people light up like they did, I'm saying it again.

 

[Bob Michaels]

Okay, semi Off topic: One thing I read said to bring "gifts". As a burner, I'm quite happy to give things. I just don't know what practically would be good to give (other than dinero, of course).

No, no, NO! NO gifts for random strangers in the street. Don't turn a beautiful culture into a group of people with their hand stuck out. Although they will accept anything you offer, the majority of Cubans oppose the idea of accepting handouts.

Contrary to some beliefs, Cuba is NOT an economically poor country. It ranks 67 out of 188 countries on the United Nations Human Development Index which is the accepted measure of "Quality of Life". I am sure you have more needy people in your local community than in Cuba where everyone is assured of a dwelling to live in, enough food to eat, and free medical care.

The best gift you can bring is to treat all Cuban people with respect and as equals.

 

[Bob Michaels]

.....................Specific question: where is the LGBT friend neighborhood?.....................

Downtown Havana is friendly all over but especially the Vedado municipality. I understand there are several really hot clubs there but I cannot remember the names. Just ask a local. The area around 23 & L by the cinema Yaro and the Coppelia (world's largest ice cream parlor) seems to be a hot spot. On the Malecon where La Rampa ends (23rd Ave is renamed La Rampa where it drops down to the sea) you will sometimes see some down and dirty action after dark as Cubans are sexually uninhibited. As in "is he doing what I think he is doing to him?" "OMG, he is." While everyone is watching and cheering. Nothing special about gays as you will sometimes see hetero couples doing the same.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

I'm pretty unoffendable, so no worries there.

As for the gifts, I'm mainly talking about people I perhaps engage. Maybe w/ photos. Maybe otherwise. Most of what I read says they like US stuff not b/c they're poor, but b/c most of what they have access to is largely crap (quality wise). That and knick knacks for kids. Because... kids. I lived in Japan 15 years... if people handed me out US deodorant on the street I would take every stick I could get! But anyway, I've heard quite a few contrary reports on this. Part of the reason I'm going is humanitarian contacts for my mom's organization. I'm sure they'd have some idea of people that need stuff.

 

[Bob Michaels]

................. As for the gifts, I'm mainly talking about people I perhaps engage. Maybe w/ photos. Maybe otherwise.

My guideline is simple. If I give a Cuban something, it will always be on a return visit and something I specifically chose for them.

Most of what I read says they like US stuff not b/c they're poor, but b/c most of what they have access to is largely crap (quality wise).

Miami is one hour away by 20 flights per day. There is a well established network to order whatever you want and have it delivered to you in Cuba 1-2 days later.

That and knick knacks for kids. Because... kids. .

How would you feel if an oil rich Arab frequently came through your neighborhood giving your kids knick knacks just because they were kids?

 

[kiss-o-matic]

How would you feel if an oil rich Arab frequently came through your neighborhood giving your kids knick knacks just because they were kids?

I come from a culture where giving kids stuff through parents is rarely unwelcome. Anytime I ask if I should bring anything the answer is almost always "just something for the kids".

 

[Doug]

Interesting... thanks Bob. We've learned a lot studying your Cuba photos on your website. We are headed there next month on a guided academic tour, not just Havana. So we'll have limited opportunity for wandering on our own and would like to make the most of it.

Considering photo gear... it looks like a lot of your photos were made with wide lenses? I want to take a minimal kit... ideally just one body and lens. Do you have any suggestions?

 

[Bob Michaels]

.....................Considering photo gear... it looks like a lot of your photos were made with wide lenses? I want to take a minimal kit... ideally just one body and lens. Do you have any suggestions?

Doug, I am one of those who believe we each have our own styles and that style does not change just because we went somewhere different. Some 25 years ago, I solved that frustration of having the wrong film loaded or the wrong lens on the camera body simply by using only one lens for each outing and one film consistently. Others differ and that is no problem.

I just happen to like wides believing in that old Capa line "If your photos are not good enough, you are not close enough" but I also usually want to include a bit of the environment in the frame, so 28mm or equivalent is my standard. Although for the last year, I have been using a 21mm or equivalent. At first it took a bit a acclimation to leave with only a 21mm lens knowing that was all I had all day but it works for me. May not for others.

I walk a lot in Cuba or climb up into a lot of unusual vehicles to ride, so a camera bag simply does not work for me. The one body, one lens, pocket full of film does work for me. It pays off in the 5th-6th-7th hour of hiking in the heat.

So my only suggestion would be to acknowledge what works for you at home and simply repeat it. If carrying a bag with 2 bodies and 4 lenses is what works for you at home, then accept the limitations and use that when traveling. If one camera and one lens works, then do the same. And it makes no difference if the one lens is 50mm or 21mm.

Maybe my situation is easier because I just am not a "camera person" and consider them no more than something necessary to take photos. I have no problems with those whose primary focus is what camera they use and what photos they take as secondary. I just don't happen to be one of them.

 

[Doug]

Thanks for your observations, Bob. I go through phases of preferring different focal lengths at different times, and then adjust my seeing to spot compatible picture ops. I am recalling a trip to southern Spain with 15, 25, 40, and 90mm, where I made only a few shots (cathedral interiors, etc) with the 15, only one (bad) shot with the 90, and found the 25 most generally useful. I'd rather carry just one camera, one lens, as I do around home. But *which* lens... 😉

 

[kiss-o-matic]

I only use 28mm, 35mm, and their equivalents. (I lean towards 35mm). I took 3 cameras this time: Slim-T, Zeiss Ikon w/ 35/2 and a Fujifilm Tx-1 with the 45mm (which is a bit hard to find an 'equivalent' for). The Slim-T was in my pocket and I have a man bag that holds the camera not in use, and a hand that holds the other camera. I'm pretty used to that setup, even in my home town. That being said, there were times I wish I had 28mm with me.

As for the trip:
We stayed in Vedado and Havana Centro. Either are ideal if you like roaming the streets. As stated here, Old Havana is ridiculously touristy -- maybe the most touristy place I've seen in my life and I lived in Hawaii before. Was interesting, but we mainly went that way only when a site or restaurant demanded it. Definitely liked Vedado more for camera walks.