dd786
Established
Hi Guys,
Can you help me out and let me know if I’ve got this right please?
My understanding is that with semi stand development (one turn of the tank at the midpoint of the development time) the duration that the film is in the developer depends on the developer itself (and the dilution) rather than the film and speed (pushed or not). Generally.
I tried stand development with a roll of 120 that I had preloaded into a tank months ago and never gotten round to developing. I totally forgot what the film was so I figured, based on what I remembered of some reading I did in the past, that stand development would solve that. I did it in HC110 for 45 mins with a turn halfway.
It developed the film nicely.
I was thinking, since the development time depends on the developer and not the film/speed then:
1) If I have a multi reel tank, I can put in a variety of B&W films of different brands with different box speeds and/or pushed/pulled speeds and they should all develop fine (assuming no issued with banding and streaking etc.) right?
And,
2) If the answer to the above is a "YES", that I can develop any combination of B&W films at (almost) any combination of ISOs then, I guess that I could develop a single roll where some of the frames were shot at box and other frames pushed and others pulled perhaps.
Am I right with the two statements I have made above?
Can you help me out and let me know if I’ve got this right please?
My understanding is that with semi stand development (one turn of the tank at the midpoint of the development time) the duration that the film is in the developer depends on the developer itself (and the dilution) rather than the film and speed (pushed or not). Generally.
I tried stand development with a roll of 120 that I had preloaded into a tank months ago and never gotten round to developing. I totally forgot what the film was so I figured, based on what I remembered of some reading I did in the past, that stand development would solve that. I did it in HC110 for 45 mins with a turn halfway.
It developed the film nicely.
I was thinking, since the development time depends on the developer and not the film/speed then:
1) If I have a multi reel tank, I can put in a variety of B&W films of different brands with different box speeds and/or pushed/pulled speeds and they should all develop fine (assuming no issued with banding and streaking etc.) right?
And,
2) If the answer to the above is a "YES", that I can develop any combination of B&W films at (almost) any combination of ISOs then, I guess that I could develop a single roll where some of the frames were shot at box and other frames pushed and others pulled perhaps.
Am I right with the two statements I have made above?
css9450
Veteran
Sounds too good to be true, but evidently it is.
That said, however, I only use stand for "unknown", or weird emulsions. C-22 or C-41 color film as B&W? Stand develop. Ancient exposed film I got on Ebay? Stand develop. Some months ago, I bought a box of old, exposed mostly-127 film of all kinds, and anything I didn't know the regular development times for went into my large tank and was stand developed for an hour in Rodinal at 1:100. Generally, everything came out allright, considering the age.
By the way, at the midpoint of my hour development, I just invert the tank and let it sit upside-down for the remainder of the hour. This might not be ideal for those who have leaky tanks!
That said, however, I only use stand for "unknown", or weird emulsions. C-22 or C-41 color film as B&W? Stand develop. Ancient exposed film I got on Ebay? Stand develop. Some months ago, I bought a box of old, exposed mostly-127 film of all kinds, and anything I didn't know the regular development times for went into my large tank and was stand developed for an hour in Rodinal at 1:100. Generally, everything came out allright, considering the age.
By the way, at the midpoint of my hour development, I just invert the tank and let it sit upside-down for the remainder of the hour. This might not be ideal for those who have leaky tanks!
dd786
Established
Thanks CSS.
I have started an experiment and im shooting a roll at different ISO values. Lets see how it works out. Ill report back here when its done.
I have started an experiment and im shooting a roll at different ISO values. Lets see how it works out. Ill report back here when its done.
DMA1965
Established
Odd as it may seem it is totally correct. The developer and dilution is very important to get good and consistent results. Essentially with stand development you rely on developer exhaustion caused by no (or almost no) agitation to refresh the developer touching the emulsion in any one spot. As it develops the highlights the developer rapidly exhausts and you reach a maximum the highlight develops. As you develop the shadows the same happens, bringing out the detail. I have found I can shoot a high latitude film and be off 2 stops in either direction with no visible difference and 3 stops with very usable negatives. Moreover, temperature really does not matter. I process at whatever room temperature is, anywhere from 65 to 75 Fahrenheit. There is also no need to use stop bath and no need to watch the clock. If you go over the typical hour it really does not make much difference unless you go over by at least another hour, and then you will still have usable negatives as long as ther was no agitation.
The only disadvantage is that the method does not produce results that are as optimal as a well tuned soup for a given film and speed. I can get finer grain and better tonal range using Xtol 1:1 with a particular film for a given time and temperature. Where stand development shines is when you want to save time (you can do other things while it is happening) and want to not worry about exposure (like if you are shooting manual without using a meter, and just using sunny 16 or guessing), and you want that classic look in your pictures.
The only disadvantage is that the method does not produce results that are as optimal as a well tuned soup for a given film and speed. I can get finer grain and better tonal range using Xtol 1:1 with a particular film for a given time and temperature. Where stand development shines is when you want to save time (you can do other things while it is happening) and want to not worry about exposure (like if you are shooting manual without using a meter, and just using sunny 16 or guessing), and you want that classic look in your pictures.
shawn
Veteran
As others have said stand developing does let you mix and match different films. I've done that with TMAX 100, TMAX400 and TriX. I used HC110 at 1:125 and an hour in the tank with only the initial inversion. The film develop fine but TriX seems to be considerably grainier when stand developed. TMAX looks good this way.
Shawn
Shawn
BLKRCAT
75% Film
*cough* doesn't work for XX *cough*
edit:
also it doesn't work for pushed and pulled films. Everyone touts that stand developing is literally fool proof. But no. If you try to stand develop a roll of delta 3200 shot at 3200 you will get thin negatives. I think if you are to mix emulsions you should start by shooting them at box speed. If you want to try to get fancy you can try to put a pushed or pulled roll in there. But I would advise against it I've never seen these super consistent results from stand developing that everyone seems to talk about.
When pushing XX to 1600 I would stand develop for 2 hours. With an inversion at the hour mark. When stand developing XX for an hour the negatives were always overdeveloped. I would stand develop for 22 min and it would give perfect results.
Also the look from stand developing can differ from conventionally developed films.
edit:
also it doesn't work for pushed and pulled films. Everyone touts that stand developing is literally fool proof. But no. If you try to stand develop a roll of delta 3200 shot at 3200 you will get thin negatives. I think if you are to mix emulsions you should start by shooting them at box speed. If you want to try to get fancy you can try to put a pushed or pulled roll in there. But I would advise against it I've never seen these super consistent results from stand developing that everyone seems to talk about.
When pushing XX to 1600 I would stand develop for 2 hours. With an inversion at the hour mark. When stand developing XX for an hour the negatives were always overdeveloped. I would stand develop for 22 min and it would give perfect results.
Also the look from stand developing can differ from conventionally developed films.
Bill Clark
Veteran
This helped me.
Hope it helps you!
http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutorials/workflow-tutorial-2-stand-development-with-rodinal/
Hope it helps you!
http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutorials/workflow-tutorial-2-stand-development-with-rodinal/
taemo
eat sleep shoot
I only did stand development once with 1 roll of 35mm.
I've shot some frames at ISO 200, some at ISO 400 and some all the way up to ISO 1600 or 3200.
All frames developed no problem although at a lower contrast.
here's some frames that I uploaded on my flickr if interested
AA022 by Earl Dieta, on Flickr
AA028 by Earl Dieta, on Flickr
I've shot some frames at ISO 200, some at ISO 400 and some all the way up to ISO 1600 or 3200.
All frames developed no problem although at a lower contrast.
here's some frames that I uploaded on my flickr if interested
AA022 by Earl Dieta, on FlickrAA028 by Earl Dieta, on Flickr
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
My history of developing film began with stand-dev after reading the Hildebrand pages, and it works fine as far as it goes, but it just doesn't go far enough.
If I want "something else" from my films, I needed to be more precise to get what I wanted, and not just accept what I got with stand-dev.
If I want "something else" from my films, I needed to be more precise to get what I wanted, and not just accept what I got with stand-dev.
Bill Clark
Veteran
I like your photograph David.
And your beautiful work on display with your web site. It’s art.
And your beautiful work on display with your web site. It’s art.
kxl
Social Documentary
I’ve never really tried stand development, but this saves a lot of time! Yes, there is some sacrifice compared to ‘finely’tuned’ development specific to each film, but I can live with that. This allows me to shoot 100 and 400 speed film (at box speeds) and develop them at the same time. And multi-task!!!
And thanks Bill for the link!
And thanks Bill for the link!